Romanian AK-47

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.45&TKD

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Does the Romanian AK-47 have a chrome lined bore?

If it does not, does it matter? I'm thinking of getting one.
 
Not to take over the thread - but I also have a Romanian AK-47, and I have shot it a few times (maybe 70 rounds), but I have never cleaned it.

I have the gun for just fun shooting, and for SHTF/secondary home defense weapon.

From what I understand, not cleaning this gun will not impede reliability, but will it damage the gun? I have used only Wolf ammo in it so far. Also - when cleaning it, since there is no way to lock the action open, how in the world does one clean it?

Thanks,

TD
 
LOL - Thanks

After re-reading my post, I realized that it contains one of the dumbest questions I've ever posited.

TD
 
Not to take over the thread - but I also have a Romanian AK-47, and I have shot it a few times (maybe 70 rounds), but I have never cleaned it.

I have the gun for just fun shooting, and for SHTF/secondary home defense weapon.

From what I understand, not cleaning this gun will not impede reliability, but will it damage the gun? I have used only Wolf ammo in it so far. Also - when cleaning it, since there is no way to lock the action open, how in the world does one clean it?


Just field strip it. There is no way to lock the bolt back on an AK unless you by one of those aftermarket safeties.
You will have to clean it once in awhile, but not really for reliability.
You have to clean any gun because fouling attracts moisture and will eventually lead to rust. Don't oil the gas piston when you clean it, just wipe the crap off.
I routinely shoot my AK dirty, and I do it with my handguns too. Both my SIG and my CZ will do just fine with 500+ rounds between good cleanings. I don't do that very often, just when I first get one to prove to myself that it WILL WORK if I need it.
Just bear in mind that the more you allow to build up on it, the harder you will have to work to get it off.
 
The part on an AK most likely to suffer from lack of cleaning is the gas cylinder, which is not chrome lined. If you shoot corrosive ammo you may get rust in it if you don't clean it after shooting.
 
On my SAR1

Just field strip it. There is no way to lock the bolt back on an AK unless you by one of those aftermarket safeties.
I can get mine to stick back. Of course it's not designed to, but if I pull the bolt back and gently release it it'll stick open. It doesn't take much of a jar to free up again and release though... so I won't be sticking my fingers in there or anything! :)
 
Seriously now. I know its said that an AK will run forever without a hickup if you dont clean it, but dont listen to that crap. You should clean all your guns as soon as possible after firing them, corrosive or not. Just from a safety standpoint, guns need to be stripped, cleaned, and gone over to check for any issues that may need attention. This really goes for guns you just brought home. They should always be stripped, cleaned, and relubed before firing. The bore in particular should be cleaned of any oil to prevent bulging the barrel when fired. If you dont take care of them, they wont take care of you, be that at the target range or elsewhere.
 
I too can get my SAR-1 to lock back. Either by riding the bolt forward a bit slowly while pulling upwards slightly at the same time, or by holding the trigger back while pulling the bolt rearward and then riding it slowly forward. It takes a bit of practice to find the 'sweet spot' for either method, but it is doable.
 
I too can get my SAR-1 to lock back. Either by riding the bolt forward a bit slowly while pulling upwards slightly at the same time, or by holding the trigger back while pulling the bolt rearward and then riding it slowly forward. It takes a bit of practice to find the 'sweet spot' for either method, but it is doable.
At least there is someone else it happens to. Everyone keeps telling me that it shouldn't do that and my brother-in-law has a couple of AK's and you can't get them to do it at all. I'm not sure exactly what kind they are (I think I remember seeing 'Norinco' on one), but they are obviously machined MUCH better and have a MUCH nicer finish then my Romanian.
 
I wonder if the hold-open "feature" of the SAR1 is related to the trigger-slap caused by out-of-spec U.S. trigger/hammer parts.

Mine will also stay open as long as I don't bump it.

It gets cleaned every time it comes back from shooting. It may not need that much cleaning, but I do that with all the guns.

Regards.
 
Disinformation Information

when you slowly let the bolt go forward it is just getting hung up where the bolt carrier meets the gas piston. A good bump will put it in battery. Do not confuse this with Locking the bolt back.

TO LOCK THE BOLT BACK ON AN AK:
Pull the bolt fully rearward and hold it there.
Squeeze the trigger.
Slowly release the bolt.
It will LOCK open.
To arm the weapon just pull the bolt fully rearward an let loose.

You really should field strip it to do most maintenance though. It's Probably the easiest rifle in the world to take down.

Good Luck!
-bevr
 
BevrFevr, you're right, riding it forward and pulling up isn't the same as locking it back, but it works nearly the same. I personally prefer the trigger riding method as it holds it back better.
 
Canted gas block/tube

when you slowly let the bolt go forward it is just getting hung up where the bolt carrier meets the gas piston. A good bump will put it in battery. Do not confuse this with Locking the bolt back.

Would this be caused by a canted gas block?

I bought the SAR-1 and have taken it apart and cleaned it. It does display the unintentional bolt hold back discussed in this thread. I can see it dragging just a little on the gas tube. And I can now see just the very slightest cant to the gas block.

I have not shot it yet, I was going to the range on Tues.

Assuming it shoots straight and cycles properly, do I need to fix the canted gas block/tube?

Will it do long term damage if I have a little cant and don't fix it?

Or should I return it for a different one?
 
My SAR has a slightly canted sight and gas block. I left it alone and have had no trouble with it and it shoots ok. The "trigger hang up" seems to be a "by the gun" type issue. I have one out of four that did it, but since its been shot a bunch, it doesnt do it anymore. I think its more an issue of the crappy US replacement parts. It will probably go away once you shoot it some.
 
And there's always the old "just leave an EMPTY mag in the thing and let it hold the bolt open" idea.
For those purists that absolutley freak that one of the Safety Rules of Gun Cleaning is being violated by having a mag in any rifle they are cleaning.........if you are smart enough to remember the rules of gun saftey, you're wise enough to take a crappy mag and rig it so it can never be loaded again (hint mag follower all the way up and a sheet metal screw in the right place), paint it red and use it this way. Romak mags are what.....10 bucks. If you have a beat up one or one they doesn't work too well that's the one to use.

The really, really wizard among you will figure out how to turn you "cleaning mag" into a "storage container" (no mag spring necessary cause the follower is screwed, or tack welded in place, so the mag is empty and you can store suff in that space). Now your cleaning stuff that can go anywhere and everywhere and fits in one of the pockets with your other mags or in you range box etc.
A pull through made out of 200 pound saltwater fishing line works pretty well and for some reason most solvents don't effect the stuff.

Take care
S-
 
Why not just strip it to clean it? Why bother to clean it if your not going to clean it right? A swab down the bore isnt cleaning.
 
Considering the mind-numbing ease of stripping an AK, I wonder why anyone would go through all of that.

And, why not use a Boresnake?

Seems like that shortcut is infinately more difficult than doing it right.
 
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