RR Arms AR-15 Standard A2 thoughts and questions

[petej]

Hello All,

I am leaning towards the purchase of a new RR Arms Standard A2 (obviously 20 inch barrel and not 16 inch). Thoughts in my head for this particular maker and model are as follows….

- RR quality per price is second to none from what I have found in my investigation this year.

- I already own a very handy AK-47 with 16 inch barrel and front handle that I could consider my close quarters weapon. In my purchase of the 20 inch barrel RR Arms Standard A2, I see it as my 100+ yard field long rifle, if that makes any sense. And hey, I can always get a 16 inch AR down the road if I need be.

- The 20 inch barrel will help increase fps to aid in fragmentation at longer distances on average compared to 16 inch barrel from what I have read.

- The 20 inch barrel will help in accurate shots at farther distances ( 100+ yards) on average compared to 16 inch barrel from what I have read.

- handled both 16 and 20 inch and both felt good, 20 inch felt a bit better since I have long arms

Any thoughts or comments about the above would be appreciated. Would not mind someone trying to convince me differently about the above or have me think about some other points that I have not thought of yet.


Also, I have some questions that I need help answering…..

- “223 Wylde Chamber” can handle .223 and 5.56, right? Anything it can not handle?

- the default barrel is “Chrome-Moly” with 1:9 twist, can pay $65 more for “Stainless Steel: with 1:8 twist. Should I stick with the Chrome-Moly or get the Stainless Steel? What are the pros and cons from material and twists? From what I have read the Chrome-Moly can soak up a little moisture and the Stainless Steel will not, but not sure.

- were is the best place to buy the RR gun, online from their website or somewhere else?

Thanks much for your time and info, I appreciate it.

 

[Minator]

RRA has a forum at AR15.com in the industry section where a very knowledgeable represenative answers all questions rather quickly if I cant answer your questions.

- “223 Wylde Chamber” can handle .223 and 5.56, right? Anything it can not handle?

A wylde chamber is widely argued as a better chambering even to the standard military 5.56 for handleing higher pressure rounds. A bushmaster I beleive is rated around 73-75gr max to send through there barrels which you can send higher grs through their barrels but at your own risk. I believe most SPR sniper rifles that are used by special forces with 77gr rounds are wylde chambers from what ive read.

- The 20 inch barrel will help increase fps to aid in fragmentation at longer distances on average compared to 16 inch barrel from what I have read.

at the website Ive listed it has a chart In one of the imformational threads of the fps I do agree the 20" barrel is more accurate then the 16" but the fragmentation properties are sorta even anything 16" and above bring the round up to a sufficent fragmenting speed.

- the default barrel is “Chrome-Moly” with 1:9 twist, can pay $65 more for “Stainless Steel: with 1:8 twist. Should I stick with the Chrome-Moly or get the Stainless Steel? What are the pros and cons from material and twists? From what I have read the Chrome-Moly can soak up a little moisture and the Stainless Steel will not, but not sure.

They also have information on the twist rates at the site, but if your interested in a 20" barrel I would stick with the chrome moly and pay extra to get the chrome lining its easier to clean and lasts longer. the only issue with the 20" stainless bull barrel is excesively heavy I used to use one for hunting and it was difficult to shoot with out a bipod or sitting it on a tree and it throws off the entire balance of the gun. And you cant paint it because its stainless so when the sun comes out everyone and everything can see you from a mile away.

- were is the best place to buy the RR gun, online from their website or somewhere else?

Your local gunshop can usually find one for you but if you would like to save money which all of us do you can go to your FFL and just order the lower and order a complete upper directly from rock river arms and have it shipped to your house. Bushmaster offers a dvd and books to show you how to build one from the ground up. but in the case of just ordering a lower and upper you just snap it together with 2 pins in the front and rear and its ready to shoot
just make sure not to pull the front pin completely out our a detent used for the mag release will pop out the good thing about this is you can have one complete lower and just order different uppers and in a matter of seconds change them out and have several types of rifles including different calibers and etc depending on what you want.

I hope this answers some of your questions, and I know www.ar15.com will definatelly answer any question you will ever have about AR's

 

[Coronach]

16" vs 20"...

The longer barrel will help with velocity, which can be an issue if you're using ball ammo. However, you don't have to use ball ammo. .223 Hornady TAP will inflict horrific wounds out of shorter barrels than 16".

The longer barrel does little to help accuracy besides offering a longer sight radius. IOW, if you are using an optic, it makes no real diference if you have a 16" or 20" upper. RRA also offers a midlength upper, which is a 16" barrel mated with a longer forearm and better gas system. It givers you the short length and easy handling of a 16", with a sight radius in between 16 and 20. I've heard it described as an upside without a downside. Seems that way to me, too.

If it were me, I'd get the lightest profile 1/9 twist 16" bbl, midlength gas system, chrome bore/chamber, flat top upper and call it a day.

Mike

 

[Jorg Nysgerrig]

If it were me, I'd get the lightest profile 1/9 twist 16" bbl, midlength gas system, chrome bore/chamber, flat top upper and call it a day.

In the case of RRA, the lightest profile is also the heaviest. You can have any profile you want, so long as it is heavy under the handguards.

I went for the midlength mainly for ergonomics. At 6'4", the CAR and M4 handguards just made me feel cramped. The midlength's extra couple of inches made a world of difference.

I would definately consider a flat top, even if you are just going to put a carry handle on it anyway. It'll give you options later on.

As Minator said, if you hit the Industry section of AR15.com and go to the RRA forum, there is a company rep there who fields questions throughout the day. A great source of technical and presales information.

I ordered mine from an online dealer and had it shipped to a local FFL.

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

I'm also a big fan of the 16" midlength and I would second the advice to get a flattop. You can always buy a detachable carry handle for the flattop if that is what you like; but you'll need to replace the upper receiver to get rid of the A2 carry handle if you get tired of it.

I think the .223 Wylde chamber is a great deal. I've been very pleased with the barrels I have using that chamber.

Should I stick with the Chrome-Moly or get the Stainless Steel? What are the pros and cons from material and twists? From what I have read the Chrome-Moly can soak up a little moisture and the Stainless Steel will not, but not sure.

I like the stainless 1:8 barrels over just the plain unlined chrome-moly. Generally you'll get better corrosion resistance and accuracy and the 1:8 are guaranteed to shoot the heavier rounds well, while the 1:9 can be a little more iffy with heavy rounds, especially as the round count goes up.

However, if you plan to dump 200 rounds as fast as you can pull the trigger on a frequent basis, you might as well get the cheapest barrel you can and just replace it when it is burnt out.