RRA Varmint a4 handguard replacement

Status
Not open for further replies.
MenaceMan47

MenaceMan47

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2011
Messages
128
I'm trying to trim some weight on my Varmint a4 20" AR15, and I want to replace the free-float handguard with something a bit lighter and more accessory-friendly. The upper uses a heavy-profile barrel (.920 at the gas block, 1.075 under the handguard). What are your suggestions? What are you guys using?

Pics would be a plus. Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
Daytona tactical has an ultra lightweight key mod free float grip that comes with a few sections of rail and is octagonal in shape. The 15" one weighs 12 oz with the barrel nut if I remember right. I used a 10" on a carbine upper a while ago and it was lighter than a set of unlined car grips and delta ring. They are really nice and about $100.
 
Tagged.
I have the same rifle and want to shave weight so I'll watch this ideas.
I'm debating on having the barrel fluted. I have looked for a carbon fiber float tube that uses the same barrel nut but I think it's proprietary to RRA.
I love this rifle but it's just too freaking heavy.
 
Just swap the handguard out for any of the plethora of lightweight tubes available. For the money, the ALG EMR is nice for a varminter.
 
I put a Midwest Industries 15" tube on my Seekins Precision build. It's a great handguard but pretty pricey.
Then I wanted to put another on my RRA Varminter,but didn't want to spend another $200 for a handguard. I bought a 15" Omega Mfg. keymod handguard on ebay for about $75,it's not as nice as the Midwest tube,but it works just fine.
*Note* The barrel nut that comes with the Omega tube doesn't take much force to break when torquing the nut down.You need to be very careful when tightening the barrel nut down.

002_zps12dhanhq.jpg
 
RRA handguard

TxHillBilly: Can you post the part # for the Midwest Industries handguard you are talking about? There were at least two of the MI handguards that caught my eye, but I need to know at least the part # so I can get the dimensions (inner/outer diameter) of the one you are talking about so I can have something to start with.

Thx all for your responses, and I'm glad to know I'm not the only one looking for a solution to this.

Your responses and information are greatly appreciated. I look forward to completing my coyote rifle, and when I finally select a working handguard I can get my barrel threaded at the same time so I can use my suppressor on it. I'll post pics when the rifle is completed.
 
Last edited:
Rather than give up the free float why not just build or buy a lighter upper for carry occasions. I doubt you will save enough weight to make it worthwhile.
 
What can I say? I really like the rifle.. the heavy barrel makes it quite accurate and it's fun to shoot. I just want to improve on it a little.
 
While I haven't done it to an RRA 20" bull barrel, I found that for my 16" Model One Sales (Shaw barrel, a similar setup, just 16" instead of 20") most of the "modern" free-float tubes that use a "special" barrel nut won't fit the bull barrel because of that special barrel nut.

I didn't try all the stuff out there, but I took it to Primary Arms and they were kind enough to let me try the barrel nuts from everything they had in my price range that was what I had in mind -- none would fit.
 
The heavy barrel isn't necessarily the cause of it being accurate. The point of a heavy barrel is that it won't distort from heat buildup as quickly in long strings of fire. Accuracy comes from the rifling and how ammo works with it.

If it's being carried, that is more a hunting exercise, and first shot accuracy out of a cold barrel is more important. A heavy profile won't be needed as there aren't long strings of firing.

As for weight, nothing is going to trim as much weight off the barrel as a reduced profile. And if it's a pencil barrel, a free float is precisely what it should have to keep stress off of it. Heavy barrels don't deflect as much from hand or sling tension.

The better answer is a new high precision barrel in a light profile. You'll be money ahead. Even a titanium float won't take off as much as a barrel profile suitable for long hours of hand carrying.

Here's another thought - it doesn't have to be a long barrel, either. Barrel length has nothing to do with accuracy, only velocity. If it's shots under 300m then a 16" will do - and be considerably lighter.

Heavy barrels are stationary bench or single location guns.

Take off the handguard and try that for a day - see how little it really improves on balance or weight. For shooters trying to cut weight, it's all about the barrel. Short and thin doesn't mean inaccurate with the appropriate free float.
 
Sure, the rifle is heavy. I've been a fan of heavy-barrel rifles for a while. I don't really mind carrying it in the field, as I usually post up for an hour or so at a time with it and rest it on my backpack while prone so I don't do alot of hiking with it.The rifle shoots great and does what I need it to do. It's accurate, even with ammo like PMC and other economy ammo. The recoil is near nothing with the weight the barrel has, which is also a plus.

It's surely not heavy like a BAR; that would be a bitch.

Either way, I've considered trimming the barrel down an inch or two when I get it threaded, but I'm not sure if it will cause gas-tuning issues with cycling. Alot of the handguards I'm looking at are at least 8-10oz lighter than the factory handguard I have, so a half-pound reduction is good for me. The magpul stock I ordered is also lighter than the a2 stock on it now. Other than that, it will do what I need it to do against the 4-legged creatures I plan on taking with it.
 
Last edited:
wally said:
While I haven't done it to an RRA 20" bull barrel, I found that for my 16" Model One Sales (Shaw barrel, a similar setup, just 16" instead of 20") most of the "modern" free-float tubes that use a "special" barrel nut won't fit the bull barrel because of that special barrel nut.

I didn't try all the stuff out there, but I took it to Primary Arms and they were kind enough to let me try the barrel nuts from everything they had in my price range that was what I had in mind -- none would fit.
Click to expand...

That must be a Model 1 sales problem. I've replace the handguards on several AR's that have heavy barrels on them,and just used the supplied nut that came with the new handguard.
 
MenaceMan47 said:
TxHillBilly: Can you post the part # for the Midwest Industries handguard you are talking about? There were at least two of the MI handguards that caught my eye, but I need to know at least the part # so I can get the dimensions (inner/outer diameter) of the one you are talking about so I can have something to start with.

Thx all for your responses, and I'm glad to know I'm not the only one looking for a solution to this.

Your responses and information are greatly appreciated. I look forward to completing my coyote rifle, and when I finally select a working handguard I can get my barrel threaded at the same time so I can use my suppressor on it. I'll post pics when the rifle is completed.
Click to expand...

Hey Menaceman,The Midwest Industry handguard # is MI-SS15G2. Here's a link - http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Mid...ies_Rail_Black_Gen_2_p/mi-ss-railblack-g2.htm

You will also need to buy a low profile gas block for your barrel.
 
Here is an email I received from Andy Yohnk from Midwest Industries; actually, its a combination of 2 emails:

You were looking to go with an M-Lok hand guard I believe?
> We just released a new option that might work for you, its our SP line of hand guards shown here:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_124/683625_Midwest_Industries_SP_Handguard_Sneak_Peak_.html
>
>The inside diameter of that barrel nut is 1.060" and it will fit over your barrel without any modifications.
>But we are hoping to have the 12" and 15" ones on the website in about a month.
>I believe we will be doing a run of them in FDE to see how well they are received.
>Please watch the website for updates.
> Let me know if this might work for you or if you have any questions.
>
> Thank You,
>
> ANDY YOHNK
> Technical Support
> Midwest Industries, Inc.
> W292 S4498 Hillside Road
> Waukesha, WI 53189
> Phone (262) 896-6780
> Fax (262) 896-6756
> [email protected]
 
Last edited:
I got tired of waiting for the FDE version to release, so I ordered a black 12.65" SP rail. Andy mentioned their FDE looks more like a desert tan or a sand color and is a bit lighter than then Magpul FDE that's out.

Once it's installed, I'll post pics. MI is releasing the same rail in a variety of lengths soon, but they only have a 12.65" and 18" available at this time.
 
Handguard arrived and had it installed along with the Troy low-profile gas block and YHM quick-attach after getting the barrel threaded. Handguard looks great, and there's plenty of room inside and no risk of bumping into the M-Lok t-bolts after attaching accessories to the handguard. After cerakoting and some other mods, I'll post some pics of the finished rifle.
 
Had some personal stuff to deal with the last few months. I finally got the rest of the rifle together, along with a Magpul M-Lok bipod swivel and sling loop. I had the handguard cerakoted Magpul FDE to match the stock. Still need to zero it, but I function tested it at the indoor range and it shoots fine. The rifle is a bit lighter in weight, also. Was definitely worth the buy.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

S
  • Locked
rra varmint a4 spr
Replies
8
Views
566
browningguy
B
Ray P
  • Locked
Newb AR gas block question
Replies
6
Views
928
Ray P
Ray P
D
  • Locked
Opinions before I buy an RRA Elite CAR A4
Replies
7
Views
1K
Matt-man
M
S
  • Locked
DPMS Panther Bull 24" verses ?
Replies
7
Views
811
Sky
S
B
  • Locked
AR-15 Handguards
Replies
12
Views
3K
wnycollector
W
Back
Top