Ruger 10/22 project

[MassHunter2190]

Well my sons Ruger 10/22 had been losing accuracy lately, and he wants to make it a tack driver.

So far he's thinking about buying:
-This stock.(The electric blue one)
-This barrel.(The Green Mountain 22LR SS Fluted Barrel)
-This stabilization mudule.
And this...thing, just for the fun of it.

He also wants to buy a lighter trigger for it.

So, questions:
1. Will all of these parts work together on a Ruger 10/22?
2. How do you put the stock he wants to get on the gun? As in, does it require any drilling?
3. What is a good, but cheap, lighter trigger? And where can we get one? Cheap= Under $75. Preferably around $50.
4. Should I just have a gunsmith do this for us? What's the skill level for this? I know that we'll mess up the trigger, so we'll probably bring it to a smithy for that. But do you think we can put the other stuff on there?
5. Is there anything else that he should think about buying to improve accuracy? Is there anything that he's getting that isn't really necessary?
6. Is there a place where we can get the parts listed for cheaper?

Thanks for your help guys. I really appreciate it.

 

[Fumbler]

Before I start, let me say this: by the time you turned a 10/22 into a tackdriver you could have bought a bolt action rimfire and be done with it.

Having said that, modifying 10/22s is great fun.

1. Will all of these parts work together on a Ruger 10/22?

Yes.

2. How do you put the stock he wants to get on the gun? As in, does it require any drilling?

The fit will not be perfect. Most likely it will be a real close fit and all you'll need is a screwdriver to tighten down the single action screw.

3. What is a good, but cheap, lighter trigger? And where can we get one? Cheap= Under $75. Preferably around $50.

The best option is to buy a Volquartsen hammer. Just the hammer, anything else is a waste of money. It should cost $30-35. If you want a better trigger then get a KIDD, because anything between a VQ Target hammer and a KIDD is simply a waste of money. The 10/22 trigger design has limits and can only be improved upon to a certain amount. To get a significantly better trigger then you have to step up to the KIDD (Which costs $200).

4. Should I just have a gunsmith do this for us? What's the skill level for this? I know that we'll mess up the trigger, so we'll probably bring it to a smithy for that. But do you think we can put the other stuff on there?

You can put it all together yourself. They are all drop in parts.

5. Is there anything else that he should think about buying to improve accuracy? Is there anything that he's getting that isn't really necessary?

-Buy a rifle bedding kit. Go to www.rimfirecentral.com and read all about the 10/22 and bedding. After that, bed your rifle. Proper bedding can bring group size down if the fit between the stock and action is not perfect.
-send your 10/22's bolt to Randy at CPC and have him headspace it and pin the firing pin. Minimal headspace = less fliers and more consistency.

6. Is there a place where we can get the parts listed for cheaper?

Not really. Try the for sale forums at RFC if you dont mind buying used.

Now more of my input...many people have reported no gain in accuracy from the VQ stabilizer.
Propper bedding is essential for good accuracy. The 10/22 has a big flaw, there is only one action screw and it has almost no part of the action forward of the screw to keep it from teeter-tottering. Most people bed the rear of the action and the front of the action as well as an inch or two under the barrel and behind the trigger guard. Getting a good bedded surface behind the trigger guard can be tricky, but it will pay off in the end because it resists the teeter-tottering. Generally 10/22s work best bedded like that and with the barrel channel of the stock (except for the bedded part) sanded away so there is no contact with the barrel.
Bedding is easy, buy the kit and follow the directions.

Hope that helps. I spent a long time messing with my 10/22 and now it is factory except my trigger and bolt. In the end I sold the other goodies because I needed money and a heavy target rifle isn't fun in the woods.

 

[MassHunter2190]

Thanks Fumbler, that's exactly the kind of response I was hoping to get.

 

[Sheldon]

You can get the Volquartsen target hammer "seconds" now for $20 from the bargain bin section of their website for $20. https://www.volquartsen.com/vc/public/ListItems.do?familyID=21
I had bought 4 of them before and they drop right in and make a nice difference from the factory trigger pull.

 

[Brian Williams]

And this...thing, just for the fun of it.

If he wants to get one of theses tell him to just leave his gun as it is. You do not really want to spend that much money on a "Ultimate" and then go and treat it that way.

OBTW go to Rimfirecentral they have lots of ways to spend your money on what they call "ultimates"

BMF Activator
This innovative crank gives you the ability to fire your 10/22 or any semi-auto .22 cal. rifle or pistol faster than you could if you were just squeezing the trigger. Each complete crank of the handle fires the rifle four times, letting you achieve the maximum cyclic rate of fire. Activator is not designed for hunting applications.

 

[MassHunter2190]

Yeah he's gonna order the evil thing today or tomorrow or something so he can use it before he puts all the good parts the gun. We have many other 10/22s too.

 

[Crosshair]

Is it possible to simply modify the factory parts to reduce the trigger pull. Probably sanding one part or another. Though the simple aftermarket parts that cut the trigger pull in half look good as well. Any advice?

 

[Cortland]

Hey dude, I say go for the activator if you really want to. Barrel wear isn't an issue, and the activator IS ever so slightly cheaper than a Norrell trigger pack ...

 

[Tom C.]

The stock is ok. It is a matter of personal preference.
The barrel is great. Length becomes a matter of personal preference.
Triggers, complete or parts kits, are available from several sources. They cost up to $300. Decide what is within your budget.
The stabilizer probably won't fit the heavy barrel, and isn't necessary. Pay attention to seating the barrel. Locktite is one way to get a nice tight fit that won't move.
These things can be made to shoot very well. They really are an erector set gun, with lots of interchangeable parts available to make them anything you want.