Ruger 10/22 trigger & bits

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Oakleaf

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Hello,

It is me - Oakleaf - as per TFL. Can't really explain why it took me so long to find my way here, but very nice to see the familiar format and some 'old' names.

Still getting into swing of things, so my apologies to the Moderator if I'm covering a subject previously dealt with or plumped for the wrong forum.

I have a standard 10/22. I guess the main difference to most US models is that mine is cut and threaded for use with a sound moderator. Despite all the other restrictions, fairly common here to fit hunting .22's with a moderator.

With the barrel cut and recrowned and using CCI sub sonics, the rifle is very accurate and consistent. No other modifications done.

Reading around, many decry the Ruger trigger. I am quite trigger sensitive and maybe just dropped lucky with mine - because I love it. I would be interested to hear what others find with these triggers.

I do find the beech stock a little short and very hard to grip once the midge repellent comes out - May to October. Accordingly, I am looking out a replacement stock. The Hogue over moulded model looks good and is readily available here. Again - interested to hear anyone else's views and comments.

Going a bit wider - magazines. No restrictions over here, but with the controls in the US, mags are generally hard to get ( aside from std ruger unit ).

Not really bothered by capacity, but do like the single column mags such as Ramline/ Butler Creek etc.

These tend to be expensive here. I found a good deal at Cabelas, but as a policy they will not ship any firearm direct accessories ( excl mounts ) to the UK. Their price, even after shipping, import and tax was about a third what the cost here is. I know I should support local traders... but there are limits!

Anyone know of another Internet supplier that will ship?

Regards
 
" .... maybe just dropped lucky with mine - because I love it."

I'd say. ;) Every 10/22 trigger I've felt was lousy = 10 lbs, creep & stiff. Good on you for having one that works for you. If it's your cup 'o tea, why change, no?

Although I'd bet some of the pricier aftermarket trigger groups would be better than what I picked up (a Midway group for about $35 US + another $10 for the bolt hold-open feature), it certainly made a huge difference from what we started with - I can live with it. Call it $45 versus close to $150++, I can deal with our current "less than optimal triggers." Offhand groups @25yds of 1.5" .... plenty good enough & much better w/a rest.

Tried a couple of the Hogue overmoldeds & am somewhat impressed. One had a bit of a fore-end cant that put sidewise pressure on the barrel. Couldn't see that it affected groups at all, but offended my visual aesthetics. They do seem to pick up a bit of "woods-trash" & are not as easily cleaned up. The extra LOP does help some though.

I "tricked-up" one 10/22 with a bull barrel, Hogue over-mold, etc. & found that it shot about "no appreciable matter" over what I most always use the rifle for. Ended up dropping the bull bbl, Hogue & went back to stock (other than the aforementioned trigger group thing). I'm satisfied with where's it's at.

BTW, if you can try 'em, look at Rem's sub-sonics. Less exspensive that the CCIs & shoot (in mine) just as well, if not better.

I envy your availability of the modifiers. Seems disconcertiing to me that the UK allows "silencers" while not allowing so many other things. We appear to be the opposite in many regards - dyslexic. One of those things that makes one go "Hmmmm."

I have no problem with the "flush-mount" factory standard mags. Own opinion, is all. For me, I'd rather have a flush mount than one that "sticks out" & 10+ has always been plenty enough for what I use it for. Never even tried to find a "high-cap."

Glad to see that you finally found your way over here.
 
The last stock 10/22 I had tried (someone else's) it had exceeded my trigger pull weight gage (Lyman) limit of 12#. I'm guessing the weight to be actually around 15# with much creep. This, IMO, is incredibly poor. There are many replacements, inexpensive to expensive, out there to drop into that would bring that down to 1-6#. Or, if you'd like to save a few dollars, try working on the hammer and sear yourself to see what you can do to bring the weight down. Replacement parts from Ruger or aftermarket, if you goof it up, are (or can be, in the case for aftermarket) cheap.

It's hard to tell the difference between a poor, so-so, and excellent trigger if you are only trying out one. You'll need to try out a modded lighter trigger to 'see the light'. I too was satisfied with the trigger of my first 10/22 until I got it worked on by a gunsmith. The first thing I did on my other 10/22s purchased after that was mod the trigger (and the auto bolt and extended mag releases).
 
The best trigger mod for the money is a Volquartsen target hammer.

Regular cost is about $36, but VQ has some now in their "bargain bin" for only $20 plus $7 S&H.

Reduces trigger from 8 to 9 lbs to just over 2 lbs. And no need to be a gunsmith to install it. Sweeeet!

You can find plenty of rave reviews on it, as well as detailed installation instruction (look for Chief Dave's diagram in a sticky on this issue), over at www.rimfirecentral.com
 
Labgrade/ khsw

Thank you for the comments guys.

Does sound like I dropped lucky with the trigger. Haven't specifically tested it, but estimate tripping at circa 3 1/2 lbs. There is some over travel if I think about it - but thats lost in the clack of the action cycling.

Hard to pin down, but as my rifle wasn't factory threaded, I had the standard barrel shortened by about 1" - to lose the front sight, then crowned and bevelled to protect the crown. Prior to that it was shooting circa 2" at 40 yds. Post it does a half inch hole from 10 rounds out to 50 yds ( supported ). Easily holding 1" - 2" out to 80 yds.

99% used for rabbit shooting - always head shots, so constantly seek to keep range down and use a rest.

Stock is short - really been dithering as the rifle shoots so well as is I do not want to mess with it. Think a Hogue is calling though! If only so as I can recall the Mono grips on my long since confiscated S & W 66!

After 'stick out' mags simply because they are easier to manipulate in the dark and cold and seem less suseptible to grit and sand ( always lurking in bottom of pockets ).

Moderators - recent health and safety rulings have even freed up their use on full-bore rifles here. Given stereotypical image of the US being litigeous/ Product Liability would have thought your law makers may have re examined the case.

The moderator reduces muzzle crack - and in full-bores the recoil. We have also found that a moderator frequently improves accuracy - presumably by dampening barrel vibration?
However, they are not silencers! The 1022 still makes a crack and there is a distinct 'pop' on impact on the rabbit. With full-bores, the noise is reduced to a .22 LR with hype velocity rounds level - but there is still a supersonic crack from the round.

If fitted to a firearm - eg .22 LR cartridge rifle, the moderator needs a separate authority to acquire and hold on your FAC. However, the exact same product intended for use on an air rifle ( below 12 ft lbs energy ) can be purchased freely.

This element restricts chopping and changing major components here. To swap around barrels, each would have to be entered onto the FAC and specific authority have been granted.

Will look again at Remington. CCI is readily available over here, Remington less so. Used them in the past, but found batch to batch consistency varied greatly.

As an aside, I am a great fan of Hornady products. Actually corresponded with Mr H. and in one instance enquired if he'd ever thought about a 22 RF round. Very courteously responded that the day he did ( think about it ) they'd come with a padded van to take him away! Guess that's a no then!;)
 
Newb here, but... I've got a factory trigger with a Hogue OM stock. I couldn't see what the big deal was with the heavy triggers people had been talking about until I spent 2 hours breaking in my new barrel. I couldn't pull the trigger any more. :p I'll definately be looking into making it lighter. As far as the Hogue stock I have.. It's fitted for a .920 barrel, and has a small bit of built-in float that I found was somewhat negligible given the added weight of the Stainless bull barrel, but it was slightly adjustable, and could be modified easily for more or less. It's very light, though, deceptively strong, reasonably shock absorbant, but the rubber surface is like flypaper: it picks up EVERYTHING. :p It's not bad for the price, though.

Have you tried cheaperthandirt.com ? They're kinda.. Eh.. But they're cheap. :p

-Tom
 
Tom

Will give CTD a look.

Picking up a few comments about Hogue being 'sticky'. I have two dogs - who shed for England! Could end up with a Mohair effect rifle

Would the rubber respond to something like 'Dash Shine' - the stuff you buff up car dash boards with etc?
 
"99% used for rabbit shooting - always head shots, so constantly seek to keep range down and use a rest."

Ditto. Our 10/22s are for an about 50 yds & less for the exact same thing.

Everything I've seen, playing with CF rounds through rimfires just assumes that if you have a very accurate round (& that does assume a decent trigger besides your loadings/rifle-combo) you should easily enough be able to drop a slug ino the target within a 1/2", or so (depnding) within 50 meters/yards.

& don't get me wrong here. We've a rifle or two that'll do head shoots on the li'l critters well past 1/4 mile. I'm merely talking here about being well enough for headshots on rabbits to 50 yards with a "walk-about" (nothing fancy) rifle - a difference.

I've found that a shorter stock is easier to shoot well than a longer one. YMMV.

My fave for making anything shoot better is a better trigger. Again - YMMV.

After that, tweaking what ammo shoots best - especially with a .22LR as they seem to be particulary prone to ammo substitites. Quiet obviouly dictates a sub-sonic - especially with a "modifier."
 
The addition of the Volquartsen hammer alone does amazing things for the trigger pull on a 10/22.
Don't bother messing with the sear or changing out springs just drop in the hammer and shims.
 
Must agree with most posters. Volquartsen hammer, extractor, auto bolt release, and extended mag release are just about standard in my book. Makes the 10/22 pretty much perfect.

The Hogue stock starts out kinda sticky, but after use, the stickiness wears off. Very comfy stock, w/ the increased length of pull you're looking for. Try www.ontargetguns.com. They have lots of aftermarket parts for the 10/22.
 
I don't have a "standard" 10/22, but have a K10/22T target model with Bull barrel, stainless. I changed out the stock for a Fajen thumbhole, and added an auto bolt release, extended mag release, & V24 Weaver. The stock trigger is nice and crisp, not too heavy (I don't have a guage). The factory seemed to do a good job on the trigger group. Nice groups at 50 yds, and 100 yds (but with bullet drop of a few inches, as expected).
 
I'm not sure what you use for "bug juice" but anything with deet in it may eat rubber or plastic stock materials.
 
"another $10 for the bolt hold-open feature....." (Labgrade)

Maybe it's just a matter of semantics, but I've never found a "bolt hold-open feature" available for the 10-22. (Meaning a device that holds the bolt open after the last shot, like any well-designed semi-auto works! )

That's the one design flaw that I can't stand in my 10-22.

BTW, I also use the Volquartsen hammer and get a pull just over 2#. I love it.
 
Midway has brought back the Fajen design stock. If I didn't already have the coolest 10/22's there are :D , I'd buy one and then remove the wood in the "dished out" area, but leaving some just behind the thumb. It's called "skeletonized". Anyone wanting a picture, email me.

Midway sells it for about $100 and the carving is free! Use the black one and finish with a medium to high gloss polyurethane like "varathane" to make it look even more wild.
 
"Nero Steptoe
"another $10 for the bolt hold-open feature....." (Labgrade)

You are correct. It's not the hold-open, but rather the release - you don't have to hold down the "lever," just rack the bolt handle & I stand humbly corrected. ;)
 
IMO, do not waste your money on the 'auto' release for the bolt. You can do it yourself with a Dremel-type tool or file.
 
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