Ruger American Rimfire: Target vs. Standard. Or, something else?

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In addition to ammo / scope / shooter / whatever uncertainties may have contributed to the Ruger's inaccuracy, I found another reason: for the first time I put a torque screwdriver on the Ruger's action screws. I set the torque to 20 in·lb and guess what: both screws rotated easily, meaning they were torqued to a lot less than 20 in·lb.

The rifle's manual specifies 35 in·lb :feet:

So that ain't right. I have yet to determine if the correct action screw torque will make a difference.

You need to double check everything that comes from ruger....they could learn about quality control from the Chinese.
 
v35 : Hey, you wound up with the exact same rifle that I did when I was looking for a nice looking, target grade, bolt gun in 22LR. Picked mine up in Jan. and was gonna recommend it to you at the start of this thread but that was before you decided that the threaded barrel wasn't a "must have". As long as the non-threaded barrel doesn't bother you I'd predict that you're really gonna enjoy it because if it's anything like mine the only problem you might have is deciding which ammo to run in it because it seems to like just about anything it gets fed. IMG_1659.JPG
 
Picked mine up in Jan. and was gonna recommend it to you at the start of this thread but that was before you decided that the threaded barrel wasn't a "must have".
Yeah, I know. For some reason I can't seem to find a .22lr with a barrel that's both heavy and threaded. Perhaps there is a technical reason for that?

Is a "heavy barrel" a prerequisite for accuracy?

The CZ is just gorgeous though, and very accurate. It was too good to ignore and as I wrote I always wanted a CZ rifle. I'm glad I bought it, but I'm still open to suggestions for an accurate, suppressed 22lr. The way I'm thinking now is to get the least expensive 10/22 I can find and then modify it with a different barrel and stock. Any suggestions?

Oh by the way properly torquing the Ruger's action screws definitely helped, but did not result in a quantum improvement in accuracy. It may have improved the Federal Automatch feeding problem though.
 
What is that in your screenshot Craig? Savage? Ruger? Which model?
 
That is an FV-SR Mark II if I am not mistaken. I have it's twin in black, minus the 'Muffler'. Savage makes a TRR-SR that has a twenty inch barrel and this stock. I chose to assemble one from the Mark II to get a shorter barrel length. With the bedding compound added it was still less than the target model. And very accurate.

@CraigC , nice rifle.:thumbup:
 
Oh by the way properly torquing the Ruger's action screws definitely helped, but did not result in a quantum improvement in accuracy.

Still couldn't figure it out, so I finally took the bold step of removing the stock. I had no idea it was that easy... two screws and the stock just comes off? That's all?

:oops:

Anyway what I found was interesting. There was quite a bit of... wax or something? Definitely thick grease or wax, nothing I've been using as lubricant. Just a lot of greasy waxy junk between the stock and the block that secures the front of the action. I doubt even the proper torque would have been sufficient to squeeze all that gunk out of the way. The rear block was similarly cruddy but not as much.

I cleaned everything off nice and dry, and put it back together.

What was that stuff? The manual explains how to disassemble / reassemble, but no mention of any compound or other material.

It doesn't mention a need for thread compound on the action screws either. Should I use some blue threadlocker?
 
I would thread lock it. And start with a light hand tight. Bring the driver with you to the range and tighten it more in between five shot groups. You might find something great. The gunk may just be a rust preventative an overzealous employee glopped in there.
I tightened the action scews on my Savage too much and caused a stiff bolt operation and lousy accuracy. I went by feel, five shot groups and two hundred rounds of Aguila pistol match. It worked out great, and I got to shoot a lot.:thumbup:
 
I also found significant group size shifts in a Marlin Model 60 when I did action screw torque testing just like recommended above. I improved group sizes considerably, until I cracked the plastic trigger guard :) that ended testing for the day, and resulted in a metal upgrade.

However I would not use any thread locker especially when doing torque testing. If you do that, when you try to tighten it (to increase torque for the next test shot groups), your torque wrench will click even though the screw hasn't rotated or really gotten any tighter because the LocTite held it in place.
 
I would suggest looking at Anschutz. The new ones are expensive but if you take your time and look you can find a used rifle with the 64 action for some reasonable prices. The older 54 action based sporter rifles aren't always that costly either. You just have to be patient and look at multiple sources. I have not heard very many stories of Anschutz rifles that won't shoot. I own a model 1712 I shoot in rimfire silhouette and a model 1407 heavy barrel rifle and both are extremely accurate. Both of these models are 54 actions. I can't imagine that it would be that expensive to have a gunsmith thread a barrel for a suppressor.
 
That is a beautiful stock. Reminds me of the Wisconsin Dells. :thumbup:
If one applies the thread locker and immediately begins testing there will be time before it sets. I use blue Loc-Tite on nearly everything. I have a slight stain on the foam of my Pelican case from a bit too much between the rings and scope of my target rifle. I but I find that if I don't use it I always wish that I had.:)
 
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