ruger cylinder drag

[FullEffect1911]

Hello,

I just got a Ruger GP100 with a 3" barrel last Saturday and i have some mechanical issues with it.

The barrel cylinder gap is approx .003"; fine, however with the end play that is present that closes to .000 and there for drags (the problem is aggravated with only a few shots). I noticed this when firing as the drag caused the trigger to be difficult to pull and didn't allow the hammer to easily be drawn back. So what is the best way to have this fixed? If i can't do with (which i assume is the case) what is the best method to request for Ruger to do it? I've fired about 212 rounds out of it so far. Did i likely do any damage to the pawl arm or any other internals with this drag condition?

Second: In my searching to find an answer to the above problem, I noticed a person who did a test on a revolver for timing. He noticed on a M19 that when he put some drag on the cylinder, the bottom locking bolt wouldn't lock into place before the hammer fell. I my gp100 will do the same thing, where as my 686 won't. Is this a problem what I will also have to have Ruger remedy? What is the problem, just timing? Is this even a valid test? When pulling the trigger back without putting drag on the cylinder the bolt does lock into place as normal.

Any insight to these problems would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Jim March]

My biggest concern is the endshake. If allowed to continue it will beat the gun up...the cylinder acts as a battering ram back and forth.

 

[Old Fuff]

Ruger seems to have some very generous standards for cylinder end-shake so they may tell you the revolver is "within specifications."

It appears that you have a condition of +.000/-.003 when it comes to clearence, so unless you are shooting lead bullets the cylinder shouldn't bind because of end-shake. However don't take this to mean that the condition you described is acceptable - at least for me.

I suspect the binding is being caused by something else, such as cartridges rubbing on the breechface. You didn't mention if you checked the cylinder gap and end-shake while the cylinder was loaded or unloaded, but this could make a difference, especially if the cartridge cases push the cylinder forward .003" more or less.

Use your feeler guages again and check the clearence between the base of the case(s) to the breechface in front of the firing pin.

You may also have a problem with the fit between the ratchet and pawl (hand).

Since you have a warrantee I would return it to Ruger for correction. It will be far easier for them to find the source of the problem rather then trying to diagnose whatever it is over the Internet.

 

[FullEffect1911]

so unless you are shooting lead bullets the cylinder shouldn't bind because of end-shake.

funny you should mention that i was shooting .38 special lead swc out of it. after the first cylinder or two, the trigger went to hell because of the cylinder drag. I also noticed drag mark on the front of the cylinder towards the outside periphery, so it most definitely was dragging there. However i didn't check the head spacing as that may indeed be pushing the cylinder into the barrel.

I noticed the condition for certain by looking at the b/c gap with light behind it during lock up... and then pushing the cylinder forward and it completely closing the gap. I guess i will contact Ruger and get it worked out.