Ruger m77 skeleton stock

[Levi Robert]

Ok guys let’s hear all info tips pros cons everything for the ruger m77 skeleton stock rifles.
I’ve read it’s better to have forend pressure on the barrel.
People say you should torque them I’ve done both no difference.
Action screws suck!! Ive had to pull mine take to hard wear store and pic out allen head screws.
Stock fading I’ve used a bunch of things, one thing I need to try is to put a heat gun to the stock some say heat will bring color back if it’s got any kind of silicon in it.
Some people just can’t get these guns to shoot, personally if widing the barrel Chanel or bedding didn’t work most likely bad barrel there are a few bad rings but I haven’t see one yet.
Let’s hear some of your info guys try keeping it just about these particular rifles

 

[jmr40]

Those stocks have a cult like following and will bring top dollar to someone who wants it. As far as I'm concerned they can have them. My solution was to order another stock from Ruger made for the new (at the time) Hawkeye All Weather rifle. Much better stock in my opinion, and I sold the boat paddle stock to someone who wanted it a lot more than I did. I got a better stock and money in my pocket. Not sure Ruger will still do that, or even offers that stock. I only paid $85 for mine and sold the old stock for $100. But there are a few options for aftermarket stocks.

The problem with accuracy isn't always stock related either. Ruger has always built a durable, rugged rifle, but accuracy has never been a strong point. They did make some design changes in 2006 with the rifles designated as the Hawkeye. Those rifles are generally much more accurate than the older versions.

 

[CptnAwesome]

Anyone correct me if I'm wrong but from what I can remember... Back when Ruger was producing the skeleton stock rifles they outsourced their barrel production between a 2 or 3 different companies. From everything I've read the accuracy of the M77MKII rifles were hit and miss. I owned one in 7 Rem Mag and it was a shooter.

 

[Levi Robert]

Those stocks have a cult like following and will bring top dollar to someone who wants it. As far as I'm concerned they can have them. My solution was to order another stock from Ruger made for the new (at the time) Hawkeye All Weather rifle. Much better stock in my opinion, and I sold the boat paddle stock to someone who wanted it a lot more than I did. I got a better stock and money in my pocket. Not sure Ruger will still do that, or even offers that stock. I only paid $85 for mine and sold the old stock for $100. But there are a few options for aftermarket stocks.

The problem with accuracy isn't always stock related either. Ruger has always built a durable, rugged rifle, but accuracy has never been a strong point. They did make some design changes in 2006 with the rifles designated as the Hawkeye. Those rifles are generally much more accurate than the older versions.

Ya I know all about the old barrels I bought my stock for 50$. It’s a shooter now

 

[earlthegoat2]

The chambers were on the big side.

Set back and re chamber to minimum spec or match chamber and they start going from hunting accuracy to target accuracy. I don’t think the skeleton stocks helps accuracy at all.

 

[mshootnit]

Ok guys let’s hear all info tips pros cons everything for the ruger m77 skeleton stock rifles.
I’ve read it’s better to have forend pressure on the barrel.
People say you should torque them I’ve done both no difference.
Action screws suck!! Ive had to pull mine take to hard wear store and pic out allen head screws.
Stock fading I’ve used a bunch of things, one thing I need to try is to put a heat gun to the stock some say heat will bring color back if it’s got any kind of silicon in it.
Some people just can’t get these guns to shoot, personally if widing the barrel Chanel or bedding didn’t work most likely bad barrel there are a few bad rings but I haven’t see one yet.
Let’s hear some of your info guys try keeping it just about these particular rifles

I was given a brand new Ruger M77 skeleton stock or boat paddle stock or zytel stock stainless rifle years ago. I still have it. In stock form it was a 1.25 moa shooter. I of course had to glass bed and float it, and work on the trigger. Last time I tried it with three different hand loads all three grouped sub moa. It is a 22" 223. 1:12 twist I believe. It will stabilize a 60 gr. partition out to 235 yds, as mr. coyote found out.

My dad had a somewhat rare Remington 700 Varmint Special in 223 same vintage as the Ruger. It had a 24" barrel but standard barrel contour. You don't see them often. It was a better shooter out of the box than the Ruger, but after tuning I think the Ruger is more than a match for it. The old writers used to say don't torque down the action screws too much. However the torque spec on the NEW Ruger synthetic rifles is 95 in. lbs. That is factory spec. I never tried cinching down my "boat paddle" that tight before floating.

 

[mshootnit]

..

 

[Olympus]

Are you talking about the Zytel "boat paddle" stocks? These guns have gone crazy in value. If you've got one that doesn't shoot to your liking, clean it up and sell it for a healthy profit and buy something else. I would strongly advise against making alterations or modifications.

 

[Varminterror]

I’ve never struggled to get Ruger M77’s to shoot, the Boat Paddles are no different. Free float, block and bed the action, torque to spec, free float the mag box, correct (neutralize) the sear angle, and reduce the sear spring. It’ll shoot small, or it needs to go back to Ruger.

I’ve read it’s better to have forend pressure on the barrel.

It’s not better. They lied to you.

The barrel should be fully free floating, as should be the magazine box.

People say you should torque them I’ve done both no difference.

You should torque the front screw to ~90-95 in.lb. This offers a similar downward pressure to a Rem 700 or other 90 degree action screw at 65in.lbs.

Action screws suck!! Ive had to pull mine take to hard wear store and pic out allen head screws.

I typically do replace my Ruger M77 MkII action screws with socket cap or torx cap screws. It’s not much cost, not much hassle, and a nice upgrade. Have done the same for other brands, not really unique to Ruger.

Stock fading I’ve used a bunch of things, one thing I need to try is to put a heat gun to the stock some say heat will bring color back if it’s got any kind of silicon in it.

Silicon is only used in the post-mold annealing process to accelerate shrinkage. It’s not inherent to the Zytel copolymer. However, I’ve never been a fan of heating polymers to raise plasticizers. Polymers fade for a few reasons, if heating raises a plasticizer to the surface and returns color, then it is an indication the plasticizer has either UV degraded or evaporated from the surface - heating then draws more from the inside, but it doesn’t actually improve the condition of the polymer, rather it accelerates the overall degradation, as it brings the formerly insulated/protected content to the surface where it will more readily degrade. It’s kind of like filling a grinding transmission with axle grease before selling a shelled-out truck. It temporarily hides some symptoms, but will actually make things worse in the long run.

 

[Bwana John]

I really like my 77/22 boat paddle stainless, with NEGC aperture, front sight ramp and cut down 16" barrel.

I take it canoeing/kayaking, camping/backpacking, 4wd, ect... with little worry about moisture or rough handling.

While using mostly Super Colibres, and an extra mag of Stingers it is the perfect camp .22.

 

[Riomouse911]

I passed up several of those years ago in a pawn shop because I couldn’t stomach the stocks. Liked the gun, hated the boat oar that was attached to it.

Even though they may have become cult classics, with the giant RUGER molded into it they just never struck a tune with me. I’ll take a good Bell and Carlson or McMillan synthetic stock instead.

YMMV

stay safe.