Ruger M77 Tang Safety...What To Do With It?

[SwampWolf]

I moved out to 100 yards and shot two groups of 3 and I have to say that I’m not disappointed, surprisingly.

I wouldn't be disappointed either; especially since you were using reloads developed for a different rifle. I don't know what you paid for the rifle but, if you got it cheap enough, I guess you could better justify putting some money into it to bring it up to "snuff".
For years, I've noticed an ad in various gun magazines promoting a steel trigger-guard and floor plate group replacement for the Ruger Model 77 (and for replacing the aluminum trigger guard/floor plate group on the Remington Model 700 rifle). As I recall, these steel aftermarket units were fairly pricey (over a hundred bucks, at least). When I get a chance, I'll see if I can find who makes them; the price and where you can find them-or maybe you already know what I'm referencing.

 

[Olympus]

You know, I think I’m gonna keep it. I found a gunsmith about an hour away that said he’d charge me $10 to fit a new recoil pad if I supply the pad. So I might try to find a new production red pad and give that a try. The cracked trigger guard is an annoyance, but you’d never notice it unless you were going over the gun with a fine tooth comb. The front tip of the stock is touching the bottom of the barrel, so I’ll try to relieve that area by hand and then work up some loads for it. For less than $40, I can get a recoil pad put back on and be back in business. With the way it shoots now, it will make a good woods gun or even a backup rifle. Heck, it may become my main hunting rifle if I can get it closer to 1” groups at 100.

 

[LoonWulf]

The cracked trigger guard is an annoyance, but you’d never notice it unless you were going over the gun with a fine tooth comb.

If it's aluminum.
You might see if there is a auto/rim shop that's good with the low heat aluminum welding rods. I had a buddy fix one of my alloy rims with it and repowder coat, cost me about 50 bucks.
Some decent paint or a local anodizer could bring it back to spec pretty quick and cheaply

 

[Mowgli Terry]

Suggestions: I hope by this time you have taken the gun down looking for Bubba custom work. One route you can take is to work on what you have. Meaning dents in the stock and the crown etc. Yes, replace the recoil pad. Those red pads are a butt plate-not a recoil pad. Put getting a trigger guard in the agenda. Keep searching for a guard. Ruger sold steel bottom parts as an accessory. Don't worry about who made the barrel. Nobody has been able to tell me when Douglas barrels went out and Wilson's came in. The contact at the forend was the way those stocks were made. Buggered guard screws are an indication the Bubba has been at work. I'd also bet the barrel is full of copper.

Addendum: Is the trigger guard actually broken or badly scratched?