Ruger MkIII with feed issues.

[Pyzon]

I am totally perplexed about what would cause this previously perfectly functioning pistol to develop these bad defects and tear up rounds like this.

I have probably burned through 1000 rounds in the past year without a single hiccup, cheap ammo and the best.

These are AE copper HP, says high velocity by that is up for debate.

But until now they have been fine, and the chamber is seriously banged up for sure. I don't know if you can see it but the bottom of the ejection port is pinged as well.

Just wondering what went wrong, and in this state, not a single round will feed well or extract.

Does Ruger provide a prepaid shipping label for repair work like this ?

 

[pendennis]

Have you removed leading? As the velocity increases, there's the likelihood that leading and copper fouling will occur. It looks like lead on the unfired cartridge.

Use some type of lead remover, and clean the chamber and feed ramp. 1K rounds sounds like it needs a good cleaning.

You might also call Ruger.

 

[MikeJackmin]

My first rule of thumb for feed issues is to suspect the magazine - unless we are talking rimfire, in which case I'd suspect ammo first, and cleaning after that.

I can't tell if your photos show peening or lead buildup. Lead can look just like steel sometimes, I've been fooled but it more than once.

I'd second the advice to give her a good scrubbing, then try some different ammo, and a different mag if you have one handy. If the problem persists than I'd send her back home for a checkup.

 

[tuj]

I would agree that the problem here is likely either the ammo or a dirty chamber. I would definitely clean the chamber with a lead solvent and brush. You can use a .25 brush for cleaning just the chamber.

Whenever my MK-series pistols have had this problem it has almost always been due to shooting poor quality ammo (thunderbolts or the like).

Cheapest I go is Federal Automatch. That stuff cycles really well in the MK pistols.

 

[RDCL]

It's up to you of course, but you might want to remove the "loaded-chamber" indicator and replace it with one of the steel inserts available. It looks to me like the spring-loaded chamber indicator is getting stuck in place and having an effect on your feed issues.

I replaced my LCI with a stainless steel insert made by Tandomkross. I nipped that issue in the bud because now NOTHING comes into contact with the cartridge as it is pushed into the chamber by the bolt.

Here is mine installed.......see how clear the chamber area is without that pesky spring-loaded part in the way? My last picture shows the LCI removed.....with the part that is likely marring your bullets & case.

 

[Deltaboy1984]

Clean it good with some JB Bore Cleaner.

 

[bigfatdave]

Remove buildup
Check mags
Ensure LCI moves freely (or remove LCI, I pulled mine, left the slot open, and moved on with my life, the "feature" is worthless nonsense to appease one "state" "government")
Clean boltface thoroughly

If it was on my bench, I'd be able to help more with troubleshooting

 

[Jolly Rogers]

Go to Guntalk online:
http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/index.php?sid=0412989f44795640070e68835ba42a96
Bullseye will get to the bottom of the problem. Best online asset for Ruger Mark handguns out there.
Joe

 

[bigfatdave]

Agreed regarding guntalk-online

Dr Bullseye knows Ruger target pistols inside and out, anything useful I know about those guns came from him

He's here as well as "Bullseye57" I think.

 

[Bullseye57]

Yes, I peruse things over here as a member too.

I see the OP's original pictures, and the one with the two extracted rounds is most curious to me. Especially the one with the gouge running down the side of the bullet and into the brass casing. When I look at the shots of the chamber, I see a chip out of the extractor slot lip. These two things may be related. It is not unusual for the extractor slot edge to chip out on a pistol like this because the edge is cut so thin. But, did it actually chip out, or is there a metal burr hanging into the chamber side causing feeding issues? If that gouge wasn't caused by someone extracting the round from the chamber, then there is something else that damaged the bullet nose and casing inside the chamber. It doesn't appear from the pictures that the LCI imparted that gouge because the metal tab's too smooth. Even if it is frozen in place, that marr doesn't match because it doesn't appear to go all the way down the side of the brass casing. The rubbing of the bullet nose on the other one is fairly typical from normal feeding and isn't an issue.

I'd be curious to see what an expended (fired) case looks like after ejection? Does it too have gouges visible?

The damaged ejection port shouldn't harm anything, unless there is metal sticking out causing drag on the bolt. Looking at the bolt for scratches and marrs will provide clues to if this is an issue with the pistol's operation.

How is the extractor claw? Does it move freely in the bolt? I'd also say that pistol is due for a deep cleaning. Especially around the edges of the receiver where the bolt meets the breech face. I see a lot of residue build-up in the corners. If your pistol is shaving lead during feeding it will tend to accumulate in these corners. Eventually it will cause detonation issues when the bolt face is set back a little by the lead build-up. I'd also check the movement of the metal tab on the LCI - like one of the other posters suggested. If it is not moving freely it can cause feeding issues.

What I do for chamber dings is use a long slender tapered metal punch . I remove the bolt, fasten the barrel securely in a vise between two blocks of hardwood with the end of the receiver facing upwards, insert the punch down into the chamber and tap lightly with a small ball peen hammer to swage the chamber mouth back round again. This doesn't take to much force to do as the metal is mild steel, so don't pound on it or you'll distort the end of the chamber too wide.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

 

[Pyzon]

Well, I think I have made some headway into solving this issue.

To those suggesting a thorough cleaning is due after 1000+ rounds, I have cleaned the chamber, bore and other accessible areas, multiple times in that 1000 rounds. But, I admit, like other folks that enjoy these Ruger semi's, the weird Ruger takedown and reassembly challenge keeps me from doing a good and proper cleaning as often as I should. And when they run so good for so long, it is easier to neglect them even more.

The chamber may have been that dirty, I don't know, but after soaking in Hoppes 9 and brushing and soaking and brushing, rounds drop in and out easy again, other than the pressure the loaded chamber indicator puts on the round. The LCI is free to open and close as needed.

I am thinking the burr on the extractor slot may be normal wear. I cannot explain the battered and chewed up bullets, and because at the time I was shooting outside, I never thought to pick up for examination an empty case.

I'll let you know after burning through a couple hundred rounds first chance I get.



Thanks for all the insight, friends.

 

[Confederate]

I don't know how many times you've done a complete takedown and reassembly of your Ruger, but reassembly can cause problems if it's not done precisely. I've been known to use a rubber mallet to ensure proper realignment of the parts. So aside from cleaning, be very careful in reassembling your Ruger.

The late Jeff Cooper tells his students that too many people spend too much time cleaning their .22lr pistols (and rifles). While .22lr ammo can be dirty, he said, the propellant is an excellent preservative for bores. So rather than take down a gun like the Ruger, clean it and put it all back together, he said shooters should clean out the grit, any excess lead, and then use a few drops of lubrication and stop there. Having said that, I personally find that advice very difficult to follow, as I enjoy having my guns (in the words of that great musical genius, Tiny Tim) "being clean and smelling sweetly."