I'm planning to buy an SP-101 with the 2 1/4" barrel. Plan to mostly shoot .38 and load it with .38 +P or +P+ for defense but I noticed Ruger makes a .357 and a .38 only version. I was wondering what the reasoning behind this. Is it because the .357 version isn't as accurate and retains more velocity shooting .38's? I was thinking of getting the .357 version so I can keep that option open if there's no difference.
Ruger SP-101 .38 and .357 versions. Why?
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dfariswheel
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Ruger offers a .38 Special-only SP-101 for no other reason than some people WANT a .38-only model.
There are still some police officers who carry revolvers, and some departments disallow the full Magnum loads, restricting the gun choices to .38 Special.
A few years ago I bought my daughter a 3" SP-101 in .38-only.
She's small, and the .38 Special with +P lead hollow points is quite powerful enough for her.
I was also afraid her Bozo boy-friend-of-the-moment would stuff it with some of his "Super blow down the barn door" full charge Magnum reloads, and get her off to the wrong start.
So, like all companies, Ruger is trying to offer whatever their customers want, and some customers just want a .38.
In your case, I'd opt for the Magnum model. Same price, exact same gun, and keeps the Magnum option open.
There are still some police officers who carry revolvers, and some departments disallow the full Magnum loads, restricting the gun choices to .38 Special.
A few years ago I bought my daughter a 3" SP-101 in .38-only.
She's small, and the .38 Special with +P lead hollow points is quite powerful enough for her.
I was also afraid her Bozo boy-friend-of-the-moment would stuff it with some of his "Super blow down the barn door" full charge Magnum reloads, and get her off to the wrong start.
So, like all companies, Ruger is trying to offer whatever their customers want, and some customers just want a .38.
In your case, I'd opt for the Magnum model. Same price, exact same gun, and keeps the Magnum option open.
I have a pair of SP-101s with thee inch barrels... one is chambered for the 9x19mm, and the other is .38 special.
I don't need .357 power out of mine, so I didn't buy the magnum version, and some .357s are less accurate with .38 length rounds due to a bit more jump from case mouth to forcing cone.
I don't need .357 power out of mine, so I didn't buy the magnum version, and some .357s are less accurate with .38 length rounds due to a bit more jump from case mouth to forcing cone.
Jim March
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There are entire nations such as Brazil that ban the 357 as "too powerful" 
.
As stated, some police departments have a "no magnums" policy, which is equally silly.
Finally, if all you plan on shooting is 38/38+P, there is a very small theoretical velocity and accuracy boost in a 38 chamber versus 357. But it ain't very much, not enough to where I'd ever recommend a 38 over a 357 in the same gun of the same weight and size.
When buying used, if you know the same gun is available in both 38 and 357, you can often get the 38 a LOT cheaper and you can be sure it's been shot nowhere close to it's horsepower limits. And it may be possible to have it re-chambered easily, but be cautious about that. With SP101s, the VERY early ones were designed as 38s, then they came out in 357 later - in their first incarnation, limited to 125grain or less because of cylinder length issues. Then a whole new series was built on a slightly longer frame, so current ones can take any 357s out to 200 grainers. What it means is, if the serial number says it's VERY early before any 357s shipped, I wouldn't convert it. If it was made as a 38 well into the 357 era, it should be perfectly safe to convert, except the caliber markings on the frame (or barrel? I forget...) are now inaccurate and you'll have to re-mark it.
Ditto the Security/Service series - if it's a 38 made well into the 357 serial number range time period, cool, Ruger uses the same metallurgy and heat-treat either way. 38s made before the 357s *might* be tough enough to convert or it might not. I wouldn't risk it without major research first.
DO NOT so convert one of the rarish 9mm SP101 or Service/Security series. The barrel will be tight, pressures will spike with hot 357s. And 9mm moonclip guns are sought after by some.
.As stated, some police departments have a "no magnums" policy, which is equally silly.
Finally, if all you plan on shooting is 38/38+P, there is a very small theoretical velocity and accuracy boost in a 38 chamber versus 357. But it ain't very much, not enough to where I'd ever recommend a 38 over a 357 in the same gun of the same weight and size.
When buying used, if you know the same gun is available in both 38 and 357, you can often get the 38 a LOT cheaper and you can be sure it's been shot nowhere close to it's horsepower limits. And it may be possible to have it re-chambered easily, but be cautious about that. With SP101s, the VERY early ones were designed as 38s, then they came out in 357 later - in their first incarnation, limited to 125grain or less because of cylinder length issues. Then a whole new series was built on a slightly longer frame, so current ones can take any 357s out to 200 grainers. What it means is, if the serial number says it's VERY early before any 357s shipped, I wouldn't convert it. If it was made as a 38 well into the 357 era, it should be perfectly safe to convert, except the caliber markings on the frame (or barrel? I forget...) are now inaccurate and you'll have to re-mark it.
Ditto the Security/Service series - if it's a 38 made well into the 357 serial number range time period, cool, Ruger uses the same metallurgy and heat-treat either way. 38s made before the 357s *might* be tough enough to convert or it might not. I wouldn't risk it without major research first.
DO NOT so convert one of the rarish 9mm SP101 or Service/Security series. The barrel will be tight, pressures will spike with hot 357s. And 9mm moonclip guns are sought after by some
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