Agent Smith
Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2009
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- 48
Please recommend an experienced gunsmith that can lighten / clean up the DA trigger pull on a Ruger SP101. It's currently over 14 lbs. Will the Ruger factory tune triggers?
Ruger SP101 trigger pull
- Thread starter Agent Smith
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Hoxviii
Member
If you have a specific complaint about the trigger pull Ruger will correct it, but they most likely won't lighten it.
I know someone that sent an SP101 back because of a hitch on trigger return right before reset.
Came back and the trigger was no lighter, but was slick as can be. When new it was somewhat gritty with noticeable stack and a hitch when the pawl re-locked the cylinder.
When it came back it was a smooth, even sweep with no hitch. it still stacked, but it was very linear instead of everything showing at once.
If you have a specific grumble besides "heavy", call Ruger directly and explain the issue to them. Worst they can say is that it'll cost you $20.
I know someone that sent an SP101 back because of a hitch on trigger return right before reset.
Came back and the trigger was no lighter, but was slick as can be. When new it was somewhat gritty with noticeable stack and a hitch when the pawl re-locked the cylinder.
When it came back it was a smooth, even sweep with no hitch. it still stacked, but it was very linear instead of everything showing at once.
If you have a specific grumble besides "heavy", call Ruger directly and explain the issue to them. Worst they can say is that it'll cost you $20.
Omaha-BeenGlockin
Member
Just get a new mainspring--ie Wolfe---and do it yourself.
wankerjake
Member
You know where a body can find one of these springs and directions on how to do it?
Omaha-BeenGlockin
Member
wankerjake
Member
The link doesn't work. I couldn't find a mainspring for an SP101 in stock. Help?
Hawk
Member
Back to the original question: if you want somebody else to slick it up for you, Gemini Custom seems well liked by those with Rugers.
Though I could not come up with anything but nice stuff to say about his services, that web site is in dire need of help - if your browser supports user defined style sheets, it might be easier to take:
http://www.geminicustoms.com/Revolvers & Services.htm
This link should work for the DIY alternative:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16531&title=17113 RUGER~ SP-101~ KIT
I also hear tell of an IBOK but it's a mystical creature requiring registration at the Ruger Forum. Recommended if you're going to DIY.
Though I could not come up with anything but nice stuff to say about his services, that web site is in dire need of help - if your browser supports user defined style sheets, it might be easier to take:
http://www.geminicustoms.com/Revolvers & Services.htm
This link should work for the DIY alternative:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16531&title=17113 RUGER~ SP-101~ KIT
I also hear tell of an IBOK but it's a mystical creature requiring registration at the Ruger Forum. Recommended if you're going to DIY.
Omaha-BeenGlockin
Member
Just keep clicking it--Midway's site has troubles from time to time.
wankerjake
Member
I see, now it is working. May try that out, thanks!
Hoxviii
Member
The IBOK is available without registering on ruger forums if you're willing to search for it. It's the GP100/SP101 IBOK.
Try looking at Gunner's Journal, IIRC it's where I found it.
Try looking at Gunner's Journal, IIRC it's where I found it.
The Wolff website has the Springs in stock!
www.gunsprings.com
I have 3 SP101's (.22LR 4", .32HR Mag 4", & .357 Mag 2.25")
The Ruger SP101's come from the factory with a 14lb hammer spring installed.
With a little experimenting I found that a 11lb hammer spring works best in the center fire SP101's and a 12lb hammer spring works best in the rimfire models. In each of my SP101's double action trigger pull was noticeably improved over the stock 14lb spring. I did not change the factory trigger return springs.
You can go lighter and in addition to the above springs Wolff does offer a 9lb & 10lb hammer spring option for the SP101, but I found the lighter weight springs to be less than 100% reliable when encountering hard primers.
I would recommend purchasing the Wolff hammer spring variety pack for the SP101 and experimenting with as many brands of ammo as possible before choosing the right spring for your tastes. If you encounter a lighter primer strike move up a number in hammer spring weight. The Wolff variety pack contains one each of 9lb, 10lb, 11lb, & 12lb hammer springs.
This has been my experience and it works for me!
www.gunsprings.com
I have 3 SP101's (.22LR 4", .32HR Mag 4", & .357 Mag 2.25")
The Ruger SP101's come from the factory with a 14lb hammer spring installed.
With a little experimenting I found that a 11lb hammer spring works best in the center fire SP101's and a 12lb hammer spring works best in the rimfire models. In each of my SP101's double action trigger pull was noticeably improved over the stock 14lb spring. I did not change the factory trigger return springs.
You can go lighter and in addition to the above springs Wolff does offer a 9lb & 10lb hammer spring option for the SP101, but I found the lighter weight springs to be less than 100% reliable when encountering hard primers.
I would recommend purchasing the Wolff hammer spring variety pack for the SP101 and experimenting with as many brands of ammo as possible before choosing the right spring for your tastes. If you encounter a lighter primer strike move up a number in hammer spring weight. The Wolff variety pack contains one each of 9lb, 10lb, 11lb, & 12lb hammer springs.
This has been my experience and it works for me!
Mooseman
Member
I put a wolff aftermarket spring in mine, took about a minute. I then dry fired whenever the mood struck me for the next day or so. Really smoothed and lightened the trigger. I think I have the 10 or 11 pound spring in it but I don't remember offhand. I have yet to have a round not go off after 100's of rounds. I would definitely try this before you send it out, it's cheap and your not doing anything that can't be undone.
wankerjake
Member
So it is pretty easy to replace the spring? Anyone know where I can find directions on how to do this?
Mooseman
Member
I'm looking at my sp101 right now. Unscrew the screw in the grip and pop off the little panels. push out the fat grip pin and slide off the rubber grip. As you cock the hammer you'll see a little hole appear at the end of the metal piece the spring rides on. Put a paperclip or whatever you have handy through that little hole and release the hammer. You can now gently remove that assembly. Make note of which direction the pieces face for when you reassemble. Put a bottle cap, thimble or whatever in your palm and compress the spring so you can pull your paperclip out. Put your other hand over it so the spring doesn't fly. Save the spring in a labeled baggy with it's weight noted in case you need it again. Carefully put the new spring on, compress it with everything lined up properly and put the paperclip back in. reassemble in reverse order. The only hard part is compressing the new spring.
Good luck
sorry if I didn't use all the correct terms.
Good luck
sorry if I didn't use all the correct terms.
Hoxviii
Member
Put the head of the strut it a vice and use a fork to compress the spring. if you don't have a vice, it's doable just so long as you have something to put the strut head in to keep it from flopping around too much. The crack between two leaves of a table works well.
chris in va
Member
I'll second the mainspring replacement. Really helped my SP's DA pull.
Lone_Gunman
Member
Would replacing the mainspring make the SA trigger pull better? or just the DA trigger pull?
Mooseman
Member
if it changes the SA pull it's probably not enough to notice. The SA is really short and easy anyway.
MCgunner
Member
The wolf spring kit will give you a marked improvement and it's cheap. I never found my SP101 trigger gritty, was very smooth, but typical of Ruger, they over did it with the spring tension.
Back in the day, I trimmed the spring on my Ruger Security Six and smoothed it with dry firing and tooth paste. I didn't have a spring kit available to install back then. I just trimmed and fired a CCI primed empty case, trimmed, fired a CCI primed empty case, until I started seeing the indention on the primer get a little more shallow and stopped. It was a beautiful trigger and still reliable when I finished. Ruger does better now days with the smoothness, but they still use overkill on the springs.
Mas Ayoob is a manic paranoid. LOL Probably comes from living in New York where it's likely justified. In Texas, I don't worry about such stuff.
Back in the day, I trimmed the spring on my Ruger Security Six and smoothed it with dry firing and tooth paste. I didn't have a spring kit available to install back then. I just trimmed and fired a CCI primed empty case, trimmed, fired a CCI primed empty case, until I started seeing the indention on the primer get a little more shallow and stopped. It was a beautiful trigger and still reliable when I finished. Ruger does better now days with the smoothness, but they still use overkill on the springs.
Mas Ayoob is a manic paranoid. LOL Probably comes from living in New York where it's likely justified. In Texas, I don't worry about such stuff.
I am always amused that no one ever asks, “why does the factory put in those awful %$## heavy springs? 
They do so because the SP-101 more often then not is carried or used as a weapon. If that is one’s intent I sure they’ll agree that they do want the revolver to go BANG! under any and all circumstances.
In Ruger revolvers the hammer hits the transfer bar, which in turn hits the firing pin. To be sure that there is enough energy to detonate ANY PRIMER under the worst of circumstances they use springs that are on the heavy side.
Sometimes owners and others who don’t fully understand the mechanics of the action, switch out the heavier springs for lighter ones – and they often work. But what they actually do is reduce the built in life insurance that the carefully calculated factory springs offer. Making the action smoother does help make it feel lighter, and having it professionally done is a good investment. Changing the springs sometimes isn’t.
For the record, when Smith & Wesson’s Performance Center does a “street job” action tune they don’t reduce spring tensions either.
But heck…. What do they know?
They do so because the SP-101 more often then not is carried or used as a weapon. If that is one’s intent I sure they’ll agree that they do want the revolver to go BANG! under any and all circumstances.
In Ruger revolvers the hammer hits the transfer bar, which in turn hits the firing pin. To be sure that there is enough energy to detonate ANY PRIMER under the worst of circumstances they use springs that are on the heavy side.
Sometimes owners and others who don’t fully understand the mechanics of the action, switch out the heavier springs for lighter ones – and they often work. But what they actually do is reduce the built in life insurance that the carefully calculated factory springs offer. Making the action smoother does help make it feel lighter, and having it professionally done is a good investment. Changing the springs sometimes isn’t.
For the record, when Smith & Wesson’s Performance Center does a “street job” action tune they don’t reduce spring tensions either.
But heck…. What do they know?
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