Ruger Vaquero Locks Up

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ZBill

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A loaner stainless Ruger Vaquero 45 Colt locked up at the range today after shooting a few dozen rounds. This has happened to the owner but has always started to work after a while by just working the action. At this time, I am unable to pull back the hammer. I can open the gate and turn the cylinder but it feels a little gritty when the cylinder turns. Any suggestions on a first step to a diagnosis and fit? Thank you, Bill
 
Wow!

You nailed it. The base pin had moved forward 1/4 inch or so. After previous lock ups, the owner did the basic disassembly and cleaning so upon reassembly it works for a few rounds before the pin moved forward once move, and the cycle was repeated. Until now, thank you! Now, what is causing it. Obvioulsy the recoil is the cause but must be combined with a weak spring or worn pin. What do I look for, the spring does not feel spongy. But I don't know how it should feel. Probably cheap insurance to replace it. Thank you for your expertise, Bill
 
I had this happen to me once. I believe the gunsmith I took it to said he deepened the hole slightly that the base pin catch is in, so it would seat just slighly deeper, and get a better bite in the base pin notch. A fresh spring may help too, or a heavier spring if anyone makes one.

I've only had that problem once, in about 1974.

Oh, and if the nut on the base pin catch gets loose, it won't have as much tension. Might check it for tightness.
 
Thanks,

nut tightness seems OK. I think Wolfe makes a +5% spring, I'll order a new one to be safe. Thanks for the input. Bill
 
Bill, you might take the ejector rod/housing off, and remove the base pin completely. Look in the base pin hole and see how deep the base pin catch goes. The leading edge, as the catch enters the base pin groove, should go far enough in that it's leading edge is past the mid point of the base pin groove. In other words, the catch should go deep enough in it's hole to get a full engagement in the base pin groove. If the catch stops with it's edge not deep enough, it is only getting a small bite on the base pin, and recoil can work the base pin against the catch and get by it. This is what happened to my Super Blackhawk in '74.
 
I have a half dozen Ruger Blackhawks.The older(more used) guns will do that when fired a lot.I just get used to making sure that the pin is in tight when reloading.

There are alot of folks who swear by these too.
http://www.beltmountain.com/
 
I second the Belt Mountain base pin. I have a pair of Vaquero's I use in Cowboy Action Shooting (TM) and they had a frequent problem locking up like you described. I tried a minor fix of working on the basepin latch and spring. That worked for 1, not the other. I bought a standard Belt Mountain base pin and installed it. About $20 and about 1/2 hour worth of work and it has cured the problem with the second one. Nothing like having your six-gun lock up in the middle of a stage with the clock running!
 
BM base pin question

The Belt Mountain base pin looks like a good idea. I've looked at the web site but I'm not clear on how it works. I assume that the allen screw provides tension and must be loosened/removed when the cylinder is removed for cleaning? Does an extra/spare allen screw come with a new pin? Thanks again for the input, Bill
 
The BM basepin I got does not have the locking screw. It fits in just like the original basepin. It is very easy to install. It is just a little oversize and appears to be coarsely "sanded" right at the front where it fits into the frame. It just provides more friction so the pin does not work its way out. Conversely, it does NOT want to come out easily when you want to take out the cylinder. Luckily I have strong nails that I can get into the grooves and pull it out. If you have weak or no nails, you might need a knife, or screwdriver or pliars to gently move it forward enough to overcome the increased friction.
 
Malmute has ID'd the cause

I'm a little bit surprised that Grayrock didn't have success with both guns, but that's no dig at him at all

The BM pins are just plain better made to tighter tolerances, including the slot for the latch.

I would recommend getting the standard, non-locking pin that Grayrock mentions and ordering a pack of three extra-strength springs from Wolff or one of the usual suspects. This will solve your problem almost certainly (but see note below). I would not recommend the locking version unless you are prepared to mill a hole in the underside of the barrel. If you don't, you'll be flexing the pin and barrel slightly when you crank down on the screw to lock the pin. The gun just wasn't designed to work that way. Take a look at a Freedom Arms if you want to see how that system should work when fully executed.

My note: I've installed several non-locking BM pins and had great luck, but the most recent triggered an issue with a Vaquero...turns out Ruger drilled the front and rear holes in the cylinder frame slightly out of alignment. This was not a problem with the significantly undersized Ruger pin, but makes the BM pin, which is to the max spec, very tight. So, a caution: tightening up the pin spec may have some unintended consequences that you didn't see with all-factory parts where looser tolerances offset each other. The real implication of that is that if you want a SA revolver that's built to really tight tolerances, buy an FA, not a Ruger -- but that wasn't your question. Try Malmute's suggestion first, then Grayrock's if that doesn't solve your problem...these gentlemen have given you good advice.
 
I'm a little bit surprised that Grayrock didn't have success with both guns,
I DID have success- just 2 different solutions. The one gun just needed the base pin latch tweaked, the other gun just needed the Belt Mountain base pin. Now they both run like champs- too bad I can't keep up with them!
 
It looks like the problem has been diagnosed and solved. One other thing I've found that will tie up a ruger is a high primer. Usually this is only a problem on reloads. Just another thing to keep in mind.

-usp_fan
 
I've had success

by just tightening the nut on the spring detent a bit. Not sure it was loose but 50 rounds this weekend without the base pin moving forward. I'm ordering a plus power Wolff detent spring as insurance. Thanks to everybody on the siggestions, Regards, Bill
 
Hey Bill, I'm curious, when you tightened up the base pin catch nut "a bit" do you mean, a bit, or that you tightened it til it bottomed out and you torqued it? They should be torqued firmly, difficult to do without a split tip screwdriver, but if you're careful it can be done with a regular one.


I've only had one Ruger that had a base pin catch problem. I've had a dozen or so Rugers, and shoot up to 325 gr loads @ 1250 fps in my 45 Colt calibers without problems. I've always used stock parts for the base pin and catch. The extra power spring won't hurt tho.
 
I put some masking tape on the pliers so as to to not

mar the surface of the nut and held the nut tight as I tightened the "screw." I do not know if it was torqued but the base pin did not move out in 50 rounds. I can see how a split or notched screwdriver would be a good tool for this. Bill
 
I can see how a split or notched screwdriver would be a good tool for this.

Easy to make, too. Get an otherwise correct width & thickness Brownells bit and use one of the miniature cutoff wheels on a Dremel to open up the middle. You'll want to use Brownells' bits or equivalent because they're very hard; you'll likely bend a soft bit because there's not a whole lot of metal left after you remove the middle part of the blade.
 
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