Ruggedness of the Model 14 and Model 15 Dan Wesson .357 Magnums???

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I was looking at my Dan Wesson Model 14 and Model 15 the other day and noticed that the cylinders are a bit smaller than those on my Ruger Speed-Six .357 Magnums. You can see that the shell cases sit closer together in the cylinder than in the Ruger.

The frames on the Models 14 and 15 are stout looking items. But, does that smaller cylinder negate the size and strength of the frame? Would I be wise to stick to generic factory reloads...avoiding things like Buffalo Bore and Double Tap?

Thanks
 
I know the large frame DW's are very stout, but the small frame guns have a cylinder roughly the same size as a K-frame S&W. Most K-frames that were shot loose (model 19's) had to do with the frame and yolk, not the cylinder. I've not heard of DW small frame guns shooting loose, but their frames are heavier than a K-frame's. My own DW is a 709 VH6, in .38 special, so I'm not real worried about the gun coming apart or shooting loose, even with a steady diet of +p and +p+ ammo. My uncle, who is a DW collector, shoots buffalo bore equivilent handloads out of his Model 15 V8 and has had no problems so far. In fact, said uncle is a velocity freak, so I know his handloads are all from the max load column.
 
Well from my experience, the Dan Wesson Model 15 is very tough and will take a long (23 years) steady diet of full power loads.

The frame is big enough to take it, that is the down side. Even with the 2 1/2 inch barrel they really aren't a concealable option. But people love the N frame snubbys - so to each their own.
 
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I personally know of two that went out of time pretty badly, either the ratchet or hand had worn down.
 
They must have either been shot a hell of a lot, or the ratchet and/or hand was soft. I put thousands of rounds through one of my 15-2's and never saw any signs of wear except the normal slight flame cutting of the top strap, and the blued trigger got "unblued" due to my heavily callussed trigger finger. In all the ones I have owned, six altogether, I have replaced one trigger return spring (back to stock from a custom one), a bolt spring (weak, and it was an almost new gun) and a couple of hammer/main springs that had been cut down for some weird reason.

Oh, and a couple of front sight blades that disapeared after shooting, before I put loc-tite on the little screw.

That's it, they are indestructible, unless abused.
 
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Heavy energy or lot of shooting

Out of time revolvers are caused by lots of shooting. High energy rounds seldom effect timing. Lots of DA shooting or dry firing will effect timing more then shooting high energy rounds.
Now if you have a bit of end shake and continue to pound out heavy loads, you might generate enough end shake to effect timing and lock up. Hows that for covering all bases on heavy rounds and lots of lead down range.
 
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