Running wet

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Radaray

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I'm new to the AR-15 as well, and am confused by the term "running wet". I assume this means to really soak the mechanism with a good lube, and don't worry about the excess "liquid". This is contrary to every thing I've done in the past. So far, I've only fired less than 100 rounds to work up some loads using H-322/55gr., and the only cleaning so far is to run a wet patch through the bore merely my pivoting the upper away from the lower. I have not disassembled the bolt assy. yet. Since I've heard the term "running wet", I have not fired it again until I know for sure what that means. It seems a lot of you are well versed on this rifle, so I will depend on your input. Mine is a Rock River M4, with a 16" bbl. Thank you.
 
Look at it this way. Your AR is running with a bigger moving surface than most other guns. (The bolt carrier in the interior of the upper receiver.) The cam pin and lugs have a lot more motion and contact at a higher speed than say, in a bolt rifle. I like the bolt carrier to be nice and shiny slick. I gloop some break free along the exposed piece in the ejection port, and rotate the rifle to let it run all around the carrier, then I work the bolt back and forth a few times.
 
I thought that is what it meant. I've never done that to my Garand or M1A, and have never had a problem with either, but then I don't shoot them a lot.
I read in here somewhere, that a good sub for CLP is Liquid Wrench L4. Have either of you used that? BTW, thanks for the quick comeback!
 
I thought that is what it meant. I've never done that to my Garand or M1A, and have never had a problem with either, but then I don't shoot them a lot.
I read in here somewhere, that a good sub for CLP is Liquid Wrench L4. Have either of you used that? BTW, thanks for the quick comeback!
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I have not tried Liquid Wrench since it is a thin penetrating oil. I prefer my lube to be a bit thicker (but not grease thick).
 
Don't run to much oil in the buffer tube, unless you like oil stains on your sholder:D
 
rem oil is possibly teh worst lubricant, worst preservative combo ever made.

you'd be about as well off with peanut butter.
 
Can't overlubrication be a problem in certain climates? Especially like the middle east where there is a talc like sand in the air at times. I was told that many AR malfunctions in the sandbox are due to overlubrication. If I am wrong please let me know. This info was passed on via a career small arms trainer in the Air Force.
 
rem oil is possibly teh worst lubricant, worst preservative combo ever made.
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It very well may be but it works well in the field for me. I especially like how once it is dried up the parts are still slick.
 
Just clean it after every range visit as you should and you will be fine. You should never put a gun away dirty. (a gun you plan on grabbing to defend with)
 
Does anyone know how well Slip 2000 stands up against cold weather? I have moved to Wyoming and I havent been through one of the winters yet. One of my AR's rides around in the truck with me, would hate to have the lube ice up and freeze shut.
 
Does anyone know how well Slip 2000 stands up against cold weather?
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SLIP 2000 has the reputation of putting all petroleum based lubes to shame. It's supposed to be the 21st century replacement for all those 19th century technology based lubes like Rem Oil and Break Free.

I suggest a trip over to the SLIP 2000 home page to read about their products. I have used their Carbon Killer with great success for years and while I use SLIP 2000 I have never left any of my rifles out in sub-zero weather long enough to verify that the stuff won't freeze up after being in 30 below temps for a month.

Having said that, I have more faith in SLIP products than anything issued by Uncle Sam which is why I gave my son a bottle of SLIP 2000 before he deployed to Afghanistan a week ago and it's why I'll be sending over more in care packages.
 
The wetter you run it, the easier it is to clean. More carbon stays in the lube, less sticks to the metal.

I am in the process of dropping break-free for Mobil 1 5w30 full synthetic for all of my lube needs. I have a gallon of break-free I stole from the army and I haven't run out of it yet. I know a lot of infantry guys who use nothing but miltec for everything.
 
Ky. Man! Wyoming! I guess that means you won't be coming to shoot with us in the spring. I've been using slip ewl but like you, only in the humid southeast. Hope I never have to find out how it works in the cold. I'd much rather start a thread like "anyone know how well slip works in Hawaii?"

best of luck out there


I don't think any ar malfs in Iraq are due to overlube. Also I think some are missing the point. It's not to drench the gun out ofthe box and rush home and clean it. It's that after you get it very dirty you don't have to clean it. Just squirt more lube in.
 
If I get back home for a trip this spring I am really hoping to come down and visit with ya'll. I am dying to see your SR-25 setup in person. You never know, you might like it out here. Still planning on coming out for an LRI course at some point?
 
Can't overlubrication be a problem in certain climates? Especially like the middle east where there is a talc like sand in the air at times. I was told that many AR malfunctions in the sandbox are due to overlubrication. If I am wrong please let me know. This info was passed on via a career small arms trainer in the Air Force.
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No. However, the military often has issues with teaching and practicing proper small arms maintenance. Stuff not getting replaced when it's supposed to, plus a culture of "White glove inspection cleaning" equals problems. If you're scraping off carbon (and also finish) with metal tools and keeping everything bone dry...you're doing it wrong. If you're not replacing parts like the extractor, bolt, gas rings, etc at the round counts they are supposed to be replaced, then you're asking for trouble. Preventive maintenance is key in reliability. And it's not like these parts are overly expensive or hard to replace...very simple stuff. Don't wait for it to break, replace it before it breaks.

Don't forget to clean it OFTEN if you run wet.

Lots of lube + gas impingment = filthy action
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Actually, running wet helps the rifle in higher roundcount situations. If you're just going to blast off a few mags at the range, a moderate amount of lube is fine. If you're going to run lots of ammo through it, then you need to refresh your lube every once in a while and run it wet. You can't put too much lube on, in other words, but you sure can use too little.
 
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kentucky, i dunno. i'd love to, but conversation about their classes kinda petered out. are they even still doing it? sometime this summer is a possibility
 
I rebarreled an AR in 04 to get all the evil features after the ban expired---never got around to shootin it till 2 or 3 years later---jam jam jam etc......

Ran it wet the next time out---ran like a champ. Break-free and it doesn't have to be dripping---just nicely lubed.
 
Mil-L-46000

At the risk of inciting another "best lube" conflagration, I keep my working parts at least damp with good old MIL-L-46000 Gun Lubricant (Automatic Gun) which is essentially identical to CLP (I have seen suffixes to the spec, one of which is "B", but can't tell a difference). I have all those others, too - Breakfree was my original commercial lube for my ARs, and I would probably still be using it but for the acquistion of the 46000. They all work, and I figure the stuff the military specified has to be a benchmark. Keeping the parts damp to wet seems to keep the clean up more effecient, if sloppier, and makes me feel better... ;)
 
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