rust blueing

[publiuss]

I want to rust blue my Hi-Power. I have no doubt I can do a good job on the outside of the slide and frame but how in the world would you "card" the inside nooks & crannies between chemical cycles?

 

[edwardware]

Background: I've rust blued a Colt Gold Cup National Match, and a SW 19. Both came out quite well considering the pre-existing damage.

For chemical, I used Laurel Mountain's Brown (Brownells). For carding I used a carding wheel (Brownells), a stainless bristle brush (toothbrush size), steel wool, and a radio. . .

Figure an hour of carding each loop. 10 minutes for the outside of the frame and mag well, and 50 minutes for the nooks and crannies. When you're done, you will know the inside of the pistol quite well!

 

[Jim K]

"... how in the world would you "card" the inside ..."

You don't, because you don't swab the inside areas.
Jim

 

[joem1945]

I tried oil blacking on a pistol or two. It made a dark black tough finish.

 

[Jim K]

Oil blackening has two drawbacks - it is brittle and often chips or peels, and if the part becomes too hot, any heat treatment can be negated.

In the old days, oil blackening was common (U.S. Krag rifle receivers were oil blackened at Springfield Armory) but it was not very durable and any receivers that had to be refinished had to be rust blued, since the oil blackening was done as part of the heat treatment and was a one-time process.

Jim