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Rust on my LCT!!

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Nordeste

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Joined
Oct 1, 2011
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550
Location
Spain
I have just made a dreadful discovery. There's rust on my LCT. We have moved a couple of weeks ago to another part of town and yes, we are very close to the sea. Very close is something like 600 yards from my window to the ocean, so some days the air smells of sea and salt. You can just feel it.

The thing is that I have, this morning, realized that I have rust on my LCT, which has been sitting still for the last 5-7 days. There's also rust, although not that much, on my expander-powder through die :eek::confused:.

I'm just guessing it may have to do with the mentioned proximity to the sea or with the composition of the sweat or skin segregations of my hands' palms :uhoh:. I'm uploading a few pics so you guys can see.

Any ideas on how to remove this and prevent it from happening again?. So far I'm just rubbing it (hard) with a piece of cloth and gun oil and it looks like it takes the most part of it, but some remains and I'm considering more aggresive methods, but... which?.

Sorry for the quality of the pics. It's just my cell phone what I have handy.
 

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Clean the rust off with 0000 grade Super-Fine steel-wool & oil or bore solvent.

Once you get it clean, wax it with Johnsons Paste Floor Wax, or apply a coat of rust preventive oil or grease the same as you would on a firearm.

rc
 
Thanks for the quick reply, RC ;).

Another pic included. This is the kind of steel wool I had in my toolbox. I'm not sure about the number. How does it look like to you?.

The oil I clean my guns with is Browning Legia. As for the floor wax, I'll see what's available at home. I also have some regular vaseline. Good or bad idea to use it?.
 

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Never-Dull works well for removing light surface rust. I like to use RIG-Wax on the bare metal portions of my Lee presses.

I have also had good luck using spray on furniture polish. Not only does it protect the metal it also has anti static properties that keep dust off the equipment.
 
If you are getting rust on your reloading equipment due to your move, you might check your firearms, knives, etc. very closely for evidence of rust as well. Make sure they, too, are clean and lubed/waxed or somehow coated with suitable rust preventative.
 
I did already, Moxie. They're fine. I keep silica gel inside my gun locker, range bags and stuff (the north of Spain is quite humid anyway), so they're just fine. But I got struck by this this afternoon. It looks like the stuff the press' lever and the "sticks" that support the turret is made from steel with some kind of blueing on it, but it has rusted badly and even though I have worked on it with the steel wool, it has left permanent marks.

I'm considering a dremel tool and appropriate accessory to remove the finishing, and applying a new, sturdier one... :(
 
This is the kind of steel wool I had in my toolbox. I'm not sure about the number. How does it look like to you?.
Looks like it should work just fine.

Just be sure and use oil or solvent with it.

RC
 
What others said about stainless steel wool and WD. After done, just a BIT..a BIT I say..of RIG grease on metal. Works for me.
 
I would not use steel wool. Use the synthetic variety. Steel wool leaves tiny particles of the "wool" which rusts even faster. I live in salt humid Fl and battle corrosion on boats, cars, homes.

Any good gun cleaning product like Break Free CLP, Will protect the metal. WD 40 works well to prevent rust, that;s what it was made for, to protect our Ballistic Missiles!.

A spray is easier to use and covers better, then wipe it all down.

Whatever products are available were you live. CLP and Rem oil are Teflon based.

Boeshield T-9 is amazing stuff (Mineral oil as is Ballistol)
 
Just a note, if your press looks like that after only 5 days I would check your rifles and handguns right a way! You will need to apply a good gun oil or better yet, one of those all-in-one gun treatments which have a rust inhibitor. I use G96 but there are others like Break Free.
 
Spray

After you clean it up, spray it with Barricade. I have found this stuff to be the most reliable, easy to use lube and inhibitor of anything I have ever tried. It also comes in packets of wipes so that you can throw them in a range bag and use them when needed.
 
Just a note, if your press looks like that after only 5 days I would check your rifles and handguns right a way! You will need to apply a good gun oil or better yet, one of those all-in-one gun treatments which have a rust inhibitor. I use G96 but there are others like Break Free.
See post 6.


BTW I really feel sorry for you guys having to put up with all the problems that come with beach living! :)
 
Didn't any of you notice he's in SPAIN? I know you can get Coke and Pepsi there, but all the other American brands; not likely....I'm just amazed the govt lets him reload. Those lefty govt's aren't know to be gun fanciers.

OP, your steel wool and oil will take 98% of it off. Use Repsol....
 
I like Kroil for breaking loose rust. Seems to work pretty well.

We have a serious issue of rust in this area of the country due to high humidity during the summer months. After I noticed a small amount of surface rust on a couple dies, I started putting a little plastic tray of crystallized camphor in the drawer with the dies. It's an old tool & die makers trick to protect their tools.
 
WD40 or Simple Green are American brands, just to mention two, that are easily found here. Then, when it comes to cleaning products, there are other companies and brands selling their stuff. Makes sense since it's the other side of the pond.

On the other hand, we have a conservative government right now and our gun laws are still a pain :-( . Reloading is legal, but it requires a permit.
 
WD40 or Simple Green are American brands, just to mention two, that are easily found here. Then, when it comes to cleaning products, there are other companies and brands selling their stuff. Makes sense since it's the other side of the pond.

On the other hand, we have a conservative government right now and our gun laws are still a pain :-( . Reloading is legal, but it requires a permit.

Looks like surface rust, no need to go hard core at first. try the least toxic easiest way first.
Try the WD 40. Do not use steel wool as I mentioned , it will make more of a mess. Use a nylon synthetic type scrubby pad or wool. The no scratch kitchen pads works well.
 
OP, if the rust is really bad, then you may hit it with some 600 grit sandpaper with your favorite oil/lube. And then the keeping it protected is the challenge. There are some good ideas in the posts.
When I got back into reloading after a long break (13 years) my RCBS RockChucker was a rusty mess where not covered by paint. So, I spent some time with nylon scrub pads and some 600 grit and lube to get all the rust off. Then just keep the ram and other pieces lubed with some type of film lube. If you have access to something like the Hornady One Shot spray lube, it works pretty good at lubing press parts and dies.

And, I'm down in South Florida where humidity and temps are always high.
 
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