Rust on rough forged steel Q

[Coronach]

Le Sigh.

I got a Fort Turner tomahawk a while back and took it camping a week or so ago. It got plenty wet, but I thought I got it dried off and oiled promptly. You can see where this is going.

I checked it today, and the rougher parts of the unfinished steel had a few blooms of fresh rust. Nothing major, but I want to make sure it doesn't get any worse, and rust just plain annoys me.

This is what I did:

1. Hit the whole thing with Rem Oil to make sure it was all oiled up.

2. Attacked the visible rust with steel wool and more Rem Oil (RO was what I had on hand when I found it), until I got a nice brown flow of oil dripping off of the steel and the rust seemed to be mostly gone.

3. Wiped down and re-oiled.

I noticed two things. First, the blackened appearance of the steel was lightened a bit by the polishing action of the wool. Second, it was not possible to get all of the rust out of every nook and cranny. Will either of these cause any long term problems, assuming I keep it oiled?

I assume this isn't an issue (plenty of axes, hatchets and 'hawks have gotten wet and been slightly rusted throughout history), but I figured I should check since this is the first time I've owned something with a 'blacksmith finish'.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[hso]

Get a brass brush and scrub it with motor oil and then clean it off and re-oil it.

 

[GunTech]

You can use naval jelly if it really bothers you. A good coat of oil, wax or flitz will keep the rust at bay.

 

[Coronach]

AH!

brass brush. Duh.

thanks. Shoulda thought of that myself.

Mike

 

[novaDAK]

I had read about using wax on another thread here on THR. I'm going to try it out as soon as I can find a place that has Johnson Paste wax. I like the idea of not having to wipe the gun down with an oily rag after ever time I touch the steel.

 

[nwilliams]

I would try using Flitz

I've been using it for years to clean surface rust off all my hand forged bladed weapons and even my guns. You can use it in combo with steel wool and Brillo pads but even with a soft rag it works wonders. It cleans and protects and has worked miracle for me in the past.

However if you want to go the extra mile and really prevent rust, one of the best products out there is called Rennaisance wax http://www.restorationproduct.com/. I've been a member of swordforum.com for almost a decade and I learned about this product over there and began using it to protect my most expensive swords and guns when I lived on the coast of Maine where anything metal was prone to rust. It worked wonders and my rust problem literally vanished. However I must warn you that its not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

BTW you can find it all over the web so don't go by that link above only if you plan to order some, I just picked that link because it was more informative.

Good Luck,
-Nate

 

[skeeter1]

An old toothbrush (can never have too many) and some Naval jelly followed by a thorough rinsing with fresh water and drying well would be the place to start. I, too, have been reading about using paste wax for protecting metal, and although I would be hesitant to use it on a firearm (that's where I like BreakFree CLP), I would think it would be perfect on an axe. I might just try that on my own. It needs to be sharpened anyway since I made the mistake of loaning it to a neighbor who used it for chopping out some tree roots. Fortunately for me, he's moved away. I guess he never heard of a mattock.

 

[novaDAK]

I like breakfree CLP too. I just found out though after looking at some of my guns that after a week of leaving it in the safe, it seems to evaporate leaving the surface LOOKING dry. I don't know if it is or not, but the noticably oily look is gone. So every weekend I try to make it back home and take 'em all out and reoil them. I may be overdoing it a bit but after having some slight pitting on my makarov and hi-power, I don't want them to get anymore on them. Now the CLP did remove the rust spots just fine but I'd like to try the wax just so that I don't have to wipe them down so often.

 

[JShirley]

If you're not a purist, you can always go the practical route, and after that oiling and scrubbing, dry thoroughly, tape the edge, and paint the head with a flat enamel.

(I have used COLOR: 7776830 - Flat Black on a small 'hawk of mine.)

 

[hso]

I would not use Naval Jelly (you've got to pester an number of friends to dig enough out for anything as big as you want ) on it. It will remove any of the patina on the metal you want to retain. It is a mixture of acids and surfactant.

Stiff brush and oil should do. Ren wax, paste wax (look for something with lots of Cornuba), Butcher's or White Lightning. I use White Lightning on knives and guns to very good effect. Much like Ren Wax it is a wax, but in suspension in a volatile solvent. Squirt on and let dry and you have a cloudy wax surface that can be left or buffed.