Rust Rescue and Learning

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k0sh

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Hi, everyone...

I'm relatively new to owning firearms. It started with an AR15 a while ago and then expanded into a .22lr (Marlin 795) a couple years ago and now a Mossberg pump shotgun (535).

This past spring and summer, I barely got to shoot at all. So, when I went to the range over Thanksgiving, I opened up the case of the 795 rifle... There are small spots of rust and minor 'pitting' in the outside of the barrel. Similarly, I left the Mossie in the trunk after the range day and came out to a light sheen of rust on _that_ barrel.

I didn't grow up with firearms, so I learned what I know about firearms care here. I knew to brush the guns down with oil, but, in the case of the Marlin, I guess I didn't do it well/consistently enough. So, there are three questions I have for the group:

1) For the Marlin, what should I do to address the rust/pitting on the barrel? I've read that the barrel needs to be rubbed down with something mildly abrasive (steel wool?) to remove the rust and then liberally oiled. I want to check, though, before I make it worse.

2) For the Mossie, if I brush off the surface rust with a really oily rag, and I g2g?

3) How often should I be treating the firearms in my collection to prevent future damage? The AR15 was so hands off that I guess I completely underestimated how much more care a non-combat firearm would need.


Thanks... everything I know I've learned from lurking here. I appreciate all your help.
 
See if you can find some copper or nickel wool, rather than steel. If you must use steel, find some 0000 extra fine steel wool. Oil it profusely with a pretty highly viscous oil (I like to use 50W-40 motor oil, but pretty much any motor oil is pretty viscous compared to some gun oils) while you GENTLY scrub the rust off. If you can get the rust off with a rag, go for it first. Oil after, I just use the motor oil again, because it is highly viscous (in this case, high viscosity results in it being thick and sticky). Disclaimer, These instructions are for blued surfaces, not painted or otherwise finished.

How often you need to check on them depends upon your climate. If you are keeping them in foam cases, cease and desist immediately, as foam holds moisture pretty badly. It works great for transport, but not storage.

It's too bad your guns got rusty, hope you are having fun with your new hobby anyway! Don't let a little rust ruin your day. We've pretty much all had some on our arms at sometime or other.
 
I have used 0000 steel wool and oil to remove rust spots. I have found that wiping them down with silicone lasts longer than wiping them down with gun oil.
 
I'd use a piece of brass to remove the surface rust. Steel wool will also remove the finish. Hit with RiG gun grease and polish it out.
 
You could also use wax instead of oil after you finish cleaning to prevent rust. I forgot about silicone when I posted, good catch frogfurr.
 
RIG grease after polishing off the rust with an oily rag or oiled up 0000 steel wool very lightly. Use the RIG liberally and then wipe it down leaving a film. You will need to wipe the gun down before use, but the RIG is good protection as long as you don't fingerprint the gun putting it away.
 
Apply a coat of light oil and let it soak in. Rub lightly with 0000 steel wool. It will not scratch the bluing if you have the slightest idea of what "light rubbing" means. After the rust is gone, wipe down with a few drops of oil. Do not store guns in cases. I recommend Break free COLLECTOR oil.
 
Look up Blue Wonder rust remover and follow the instructions. Alternatively, use Kroil as you need a good very light penetrating type oil rather than a lubricant per se. Penetrating oil gets under the scale and when combined with the 0000 steel wool or other bronze/copper etc. If the rust is light, then it should remove the rust without harming the bluing.

In any case, pitting caused by rust cannot be fixed by this means--usually requires complete refinishing to remove.

If you want a silicon type product in a oil--use Breakfree Collectors (has the PTFE). Rig is best for longterm storage or you can get a cosmolene replacement from Brownells if that is what floats your boat. Have heard good things about Boeshield but have not personally used it.
 
Like Gary says, steel wool and oil can still harm the finish. I had a similar rust issue with an R55 Benchmark and although I stopped the rust the finish was damaged and I eventually had to get it reblued.
 
I've had good luck with Flitz polish for minor rust removal. As with other methods, the key is a light hand.
 
I just wanted to take a second and thank everyone for writing... Your posts have been SUPER helpful.

I had some RemOil in a spray bottle on hand, and the local StuffMart had RemOil wipes and a green, Scotch Brite abrasive pad... I'm pretty sure it's just 'scratchy' nylon rather than anything metal.

Based on the posts above, I saturated the surfaces that were affected with the RemOil spray, let it soak a little, and then lightly rubbed with the abrasive pad. After I thought I'd worked all the impacted areas, I wiped the excess oil off with a towel and used the RemOil wipes to clean the surface of any remaining grime while applying another light coat of oil.

This seems to have worked well on the shotgun... will try on the other rifle tomorrow. Thanks so much! Will be storing differently from here on.
 
I would not use ScotchBrite pads, too abrasive. If you want to use steel wool, find a marine product store and get the stainless version. Regular steel wool can embed itself and rust in place.
 
Silicone has NO place on a firearm. It has to be the worst snake oil I have ever seen for firearms care. For Scotchbrite pads go to a store that sells auto body supplies and buy the white pads. They are about 1000 grit and will not remove bluing unless you scrub it for a very long time........ After you get the rust off store the gun in open dry air and keep it oiled and check on it frequently. I have never seen any documentation that states Breakfree Collector contains any Teflon. The website only states it is made of petroleum distillates. Their CLP does contain Teflon.
 
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I would use Flitz Polish first and see what you end up with. If need be move on to the 0000 steel wool and oil.
After it's cleaned rub in some RIG grease and keep it coated. The RIG will last for a long time.
Use the Flitz 1st,
 
High quality penetrating oil (read low surface tension), such as Kroil mentioned before or PB blast. Soak for 24 hours by heavily wiping with a saturated rag. Run screaming from the steel wool and the scotch brite. Use a copper penny, lightly. Some copper streaks may be left behind. If the oil does not remove them, wipe them off with a cold blue solution. Brownells oxpho blue works really good for this. Pits.....................cannot be removed unless the metal around them is sanded, buffed, polished to bring it down to the level of the bottom of the pit. DO NOT STORE GUNS in cases. Unless you are going to remove and oil them on a very regular basis. Cases are just sponges to hold moisture.
 
See above comment. Don't use anything steel if at all possible. Unless strongly exigent circumstances impede, find something softer. It's not a question of removing ALL the bluing at one time, but making the already thin layer of bluing thinner. Bluing is oxidized steel (iron, okay), and any time you use steel on steel, molecules go away from both sides. Do this enough, even with light pressure, and EVENTUALLY you will get through the bluing.

Finding a copper penny might be a little tough these days... Chore Boy should do quite well. Even in the familiar shape of a steel wool pad! Douse it in oil, and scrub lightly.

https://www.amazon.com/Chore-Boy-Copper-Scouring-Pad-2ct/dp/B006K3XS5A
 
Living on Florida's East Coast I had been battling rust
I checked what museums used to preserve their firearms -- Wax
I tried it, it works
Instead of the Museum wax with carnuba I used car wax ( with no polishing compound )
After cleaning I applied 2 coats of car wax on everything, including inside the barrel
then applied oil to moving parts
The ultimate test -- carry gun, working in the rain (1 inch per hr ) no corrosion 5 hrs later ( that is the soonest I could get to it )
broken air boat, walk, wade, swim out of swamp ( yes, Gators and Snakes )
air boat towed in trailered back 6 hrs later no rust, just died it off

Takes a little time to disassemble, wax and reassemble but it is the answer to the problem
( The wax also makes it easier to clean the gun (when used ) later (powder residue just wipes off)
 
I recently removed rust from an older Marlin .22. I used Flitz and rubbed it in with my finger. I then buffed it with a soft cloth and Flitz. Overall it came out pretty good. Some minor pitting but most of the original finish is still present.
 
0000 steel wool and any oil will remove rust when used gently without a lot of pressure. After you get it cleaned up (wipe it down a couple of times with a clean, lightly oiled cloth), dry it well, and use RIG. I used RIG on guns taken to gun shows and allowed to be handled - never a fingerprint or any rust afterward in any rifle or pistol/revolver. There may be oils/greases/waxes as good, but I've never found them, and nothing is better than RIG.
 
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