Rust --- what did I do wrong?

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I just swapped out a 26-inch barrel, which I had not used in two years (I know, I know), for a new 20-inch barrel. As I put the old barrel away, I was SHOCKED at the amount of rust that a basic cleaning revealed on the “old” 26-incher. And this is on a gun that I had stored in what I thought was a relatively air tight environment, with a desiccant sack in the storage area.

And then I started looking at the rest of the gun. RUST EVERYWHERE! Not much, but on almost all the metal parts of the gun exposed to air (like the magazine tube) … not in the action, which was still greasy from when it was put away last.

So my questions are:

1. What’s the best way to remove light rust?

2. How should I store this gun in the future so as not to have this problem?

I’m sure there are threads here that address this – please point me to them! Otherwise, I would appreciate your advice.

Many thanks.

-middlechainringguy

PS – the gun in question is a Rem 870 Express mag.
 
I use oil on a cloth to remove really light rust. A little more rust gets a wire brush (brass not steel).

You say you stored a gun in a relatively air tight location - there is no such thing. It is either air tight or not. If not air tight, then it can and probably will allow in mositure in most areas with average humidity.

As for storing the gun with a desiccant, did you leave it that way for 2 years? Desiccants need to be replaced after they expire, or need to be recharged (so to speak). Mine require being put into a low temp oven for a few hours, once they have lost effectiveness (and they have an indicator that turns pink when ineffective).

I wonder, did you oil the firearm, or coat it with another preservative/rust inhibitor such as cosmoline before you stored it.

I use a desiccant, I clean then oil my firearms before storage, and I also check on them about every 6 months, giving them a simple cleaning when I do so.

All the best,
Glenn B
 
Oil all external metal parts before storage. Also replace the desiccant packs often or buy a dehumidifier.
 
I'll wager the usual flagon of mead,Middlechainguy, that you didn't follow the procedure set out in the manual. It's a common oversight.

Disassemble, spray with Remoil or similar. Leave it alone for an hiour or so. Wipe off what you can and reassemble.

HTH....
 
I use oil on a cloth to remove really light rust. A little more rust gets a wire brush (brass not steel).

Try the oiled cloth first. If the cloth doesn't do it, get some 0000 steel wool and use it with the oil before going at it with a wire brush.
 
I'd never ever buy a Remington express for the way I hunt waterfowl. I hunt salt marshes and bays. I've got a 20 year old rust free Mossberg camo. You can sit down and WATCH an 870 express rust down here, no kiddin'. They'd be better off painting it than using the junky finish they use. If I had one of the POSs, I'd just sand it down and paint it camo and re-do it at the end of the season. LOL

I have a hunting buddy that had an 870 express for a while, got rid of it while he could still hide the rust and got an 835 Ultimag. Now, he's graduated to a Benelli autoloader in camo, nice gun.
 
I have had an 870 Express for about 25 years. Sadly, it once fell prey to the rust goblins, but that was totally due to neglect on my part at the time. Since then, no further rust, because I treat it properly. I do think though there are better finishes offered than that of the 870 Express model, but still, if you care for it properly, it will remain rust free.

All the ebst,
Glenn B
 
I bought an Express in '93 for saltwater waterfowling and haven't had any problems, even when it ended up in the bottom of the boat with 2 geese on top of it.

John
 
Yeah- I don't like the finish Rem. puts on the 870 Express- I'd think that it wouldn't be that much more expensive to parkarize it.

I'm going to have mine guncoated soon, probably. I clean and grease/oil it frequently, and I take off the side saddle and apply fresh grease under it frequently.
 
the best way to remove the rust and keep it rust free is to scrub it with gun oil and always keep it oiled. I have a rem exp. and it got rusted pretty bad one time and i just kept applying oil to it and after a few months it became as good as new.
 
My Express is very prone to rust from sweat. I learned that, after I shoot it, I need to get the sweat off it and oil it. I usually take wipes with me when I take it out in the heat.

My favorite rust preventatives are Rem Oil Wipes and Bullfrog Rusthunter (wipes and spray).

Rusthunter is not oily. It's very thin. That means it's easy to use to get stuff off that rough finish, and it doesn't feel all oily afterward. Rem Oil really doesn't feel too oily either, when you apply a thin coat with the wipes, and it seems to do a really good job of resisting sweat/water buildup on the surface of the metal.
 
try using Flitz to remove the rust; I've used it on several guns that somebody else had left in storage and it did a great job of removing surface rust. For smaller pieces, I lightly oil them and wrap them up in a silicone cloth before storing them in a rug or case. For larger guns, and if being done for long term storage, I apply a coating of Rig, almost petroleum jelly like in thickness, as it stays on the metal surfaces for a long time.
 
if being done for long term storage, I apply a coating of Rig, almost petroleum jelly like in thickness, as it stays on the metal surfaces for a long time.

Yeah. But not if you just plan to pull it out and use it on Saturday!:)

And NEVER store guns long-term in a rug or case, except perhaps a special anti-rust gun sleeve, and those provide no cushion. If you put enough oil on the gun to preserve it long-term in a case, you'll ruin the case lining. If you don't, the gun will be more likely to rust in a case.
 
The gods descend

1. This has been hugely helpful. And somewhat embarrassing. Which is useful, correctly applied to the ego in a light coat, like Rem Oil will be to my gun. Thanks, team.

2. So you post a dumb newbie rust-based question on Shotguns and ... the gods descend, and they're really helpful! Glenn and Dave Himself and ArmedBear and everyone else, wow, I should have the rust on my 870 Express autographed and photographed (before it disappears in a thin film of RemOil) ...
 
bannockburn try using Flitz to remove the rust;

Flitz works good but you have to be careful. It'll take off the bluing if you scrub too hard. I oil and wipe down all of my guns with a silicon cloth after every shoot. I also picked up some Beechwood Casey Barricade to try.
 
For the surface rust that forms on an 870 Express, CLP or Bullfrog Lubricant and Rust Blocker, a couple rags and some elbow grease will get it right off. Don't overdo it and strip the finish.

Also, I don't think Remington does a great job of getting all the chemicals off it before they ship it. A good cleaning of the whole gun with something like CLP, Rusthunter, or even Rem Oil will do wonders.
 
Glad to help. One of the things I really like about OUR forum is the tremendous amount of knowhow and the incredible number of folks willing to share it.

Warm fuzzies all around....
 
No, Flitz will not take off bluing, no matter how hard you rub. I had an old rifle that I sent out to have blued. I asked for a semi-gloss finish for the metal polish; it came back looking like black enamel on wrought iron. So just for the heck of it, I tried some Flitz on it, figuring even if it went bad, I was going to have the rifle refinished anyways. I was amazed; the Flitz actually polished the surface of the bluing, giving it the look that I originally wanted for it. Did not remove or alter the bluing in any way. And I've been storing guns in rugs and cases, long term, in a semi-humid climate, for nearly thirty years; never any problems with rust.
 
IF you have questions regarding storing a firearm for long term then Rig Universal is your anwer.

I have shotguns that I use all hunting season and when the season closes those SG go to storage in a gun safe. I have always used RIG before tucking them in and have never in 20 yrs had a problem when I pull them out. You can get it from Midway. I included the linky below.......


http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=567717
 
I recently discovered the RIG-RAG (got mine at Academy). It is a sheep skin impregnated with RIG. Talk about fast and easy! I simply wipe down the exterior with the rag and follow up with a clean shop towel. The firearm does not feel "greasy". The Rig-Rag leaves a nice protective coating. Years ago I asked a local gun shop owner what he used to protect his guns that were constantly being "fingerprinted" by customers. He said RIG. Works for me!
 
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