Rusted together .44 revolver

Status
Not open for further replies.
O

ochadd

Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
52
So a few years ago my brother bought me a .44 cal black powder revolver. Forgot I had the thing for a couple of years and the thing is rusted shut now. No luck getting it unstuck with minor force. Leaning towards some WD-40 and more brute force.

It's a replica of some kind and not high end but don't want to damage it. WD-40 alright or is there a better method to cleaning the thing up?

Still have a pound of black powder, caps, and lead balls that should still be alright after 3-4 years of sitting?

Thanks
 
The powder and caps should be fine.
What type of revolver is it, an open top or is the frame enclosed by having a top strap above the cylinder?
Is the frame brass or steel?
 
Placing it in a pan of transmission fluid and then heating it up on a hot plate might work. Try that for as long as it takes or until you can apply Kroil or PB Blaster, then advance to the next step of using more force if necessary to break the bond. :)
 
Last edited:
arcticap said:
The powder and caps should be fine.
What type of revolver is it, an open top or is the frame enclosed by having a top strap above the cylinder?
Is the frame brass or steel?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice.

I'm not at home but fairly sure it's got an open top and brass and steel parts on it. It's been so long since it's been shot. Played with it this morning just briefly and just my hands couldn't get the cylinder to rotate or the hammer to retract. I have used PB blaster on the farm before and my dad swears by it. Not sure about Kroil but the local farm supply shop carries PB.
 
Push come to shove, heat it in a pan in the oven. Also, if you're in no hurry to use it, take the wooden grip panels off of it and just toss it into a bucket of oil and leave it there several days or a few weeks. Any kind of oil. Hell, burnt chain oil will work if that's all you'vd got. You can alway's clean it after the parts free up....
 
+1 on what his Jagerness said.When you reassemble it,be sure to leave a slight gap, about a cigarette paper's width,[just enough to see light] between barrel and cylinder,or you'll have cylinder drag,and probably lock it up again.Once you have the wedge where you want it you can lock it in position with the wedge screw.
 
Something to think about before you spend your hard earned cash. This was found on the following site:

http://forums.thecarlounge.net/zerothread?id=4547049


Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you Whosyrdaddy. I was going to suggest Liquid Wrench and then read your post. :)
 
I'm gonna have to try that ATF and Acetone mix. I've got some idle mix jets on a set of six carbs for a bike... and Kroil (with heat), as well as a number of other products... just will NOT touch to loosen. Being small, and brass... they're a little on the fragile side too.
 
Six carbs........Hmmmmm..... What year is your CBX? I had an '81 for four years before other pursuits, motorcycle racing being one of them, led me to sell it to someone that that could do the detailed restoration that I wanted to do but recognized I'd never get the time for. Still, I had four years of some fun touring and day rides with it.

Or is this one of the more exotic sixes? Benelli? Or the small production run Kawasaki sixes? Or, be still my heart, one of the racing hondas?
 
Honda, yes... of the "Dragon" variety. It's a spare bank of carbs I have on hand. I've had this for 8yrs. now... and she's got 140,000 miles on her clock. Believe it or not... there's a blower kit for this ol' girl that'll give her a 40% increase in hp... and she's already got 100hp. This lazyboy does 0-60mph (off the showroom floor) in 3.8 secs.

RtProfile001a.jpg
 
DOH! ! ! ! I guess I'm just not a 'Wing guy. My thought challenged solitary grey cell totally forgot about the flat 6.

Nice bike. I've heard nothing but good things on how these ride and handle for that size of bike. Far better than the actual 'Wing the engine came from.
 
BCRider said:
DOH! ! ! ! I guess I'm just not a 'Wing guy. My thought challenged solitary grey cell totally forgot about the flat 6.

Nice bike. I've heard nothing but good things on how these ride and handle for that size of bike. Far better than the actual 'Wing the engine came from.
Click to expand...
Let's just say... I've surprised more than one type of bike with this one... especially on the mountain twisties. :D This one started out as a nekkid ("Standard") and I've morphed it a bit as the years go by. The next morph is the FL "Batwing" fairing off a Harley.
 
Smokin_Gun said:
That's a Valkre ... here's a "Wing"
My '78 GL1000
10-14-08_1356.jpg
Click to expand...
Nice first Gen. 'Wing there SG !! LOL When those first came out (grand-daddy to my Valkyrie)... that looked like a HUGE bike !!! Heck... the Honda 750 looked big. LOL Now? I want a Boss Hoss... or, the blower kit for this one. I'd have to crack the cases open and upgrade the pistons though.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top