Rusty dies

[fouled bore]

I am finding rust on my reloading dies and would like to prevent it. I am using a turret press and have multiple turrets setup. My loading bench is not in a environmentally controlled room but in a shop in my barn that is insulated. I have cleaned off the rust that had formed and then coated the dies and turret with WD-40. Before using the powder through expanding die I used brake cleaner to remove the WD-40 so it would not contaminate the powder. I am going to get zip lock bags to seal them up also. I would like to see what others do to protect their dies and loading equipment from rust without contaminating powders and primers.

 

[fguffey]

I used brake cleaner to remove the WD-40 so it would not contaminate the powder.

I clean my dies with a towel on a dowel. It has taken me years to get my dies in the shape they are in. I would not think of using degreaser/cleaner.

I have no clue what dies you are using. Lee dies (in my opinion based on my experience) will rust. I would not think of removing lube of any kind from a Lee die. Again, I use a towel on a dowel to clean all of my dies.

F. Guffey

 

[HOWARD J]

I store mine in a plastic food container from grocery store or dollar store.
If they will be stored for a long time I spray a light coat of Barricade rust protection on them
Mine stay rust free

 

[zb338]

Look for a better rust preventer than WD-40 which is a water displacer.
It works but there are better chemicals out there.

Zeke

 

[Sunray]

You really only need to clean 'em then store 'em some place dry. Keep your dies dry and they won't rust. Assuming you don't live somewhere that the air is mostly water.

 

[Rule3]

Look for a better rust preventer than WD-40 which is a water displacer.
It works but there are better chemicals out there.

Zeke

Not really, WD 40 is a excellent rust preventive. What causes rust? Water or humidity on metal. It is not a great lube. It was good enough for ICBM Nucs .

I spray my dies after cleaning with a silicone spray. Living in hot humid Fl even though the AC is on most of the time. I have nothing but LEE dies and never seen a spot of rust.

 

[gwpercle]

WD40 will evaporate in time , it's a good light penetrating oil but for dies exposed to a not climate controlled environment, (I live in Louisiana and reload in a similar building), so can relate big time. Clean off the rust and treat them with a product like Birchwood Casey's Barricade, it was called Sheath, but the stuff is a light wax in a spray, the spray evaporates and leaves a thin dry wax film that protects steel real well. It's the best thing I've found.
Also a good automotive wax will work, wax clings to the surface better than oil and is not messy like grease. The spray stuff is just easier to apply....I even use it on my blued steel guns. Another thing is the wax can be used inside the dies and doesn't hurt or contaminate a thing...it's just a dry wax film!
Gary

 

[Gravedigger56]

Just like my opened powder bottles, I store my turrets/dies in gallon ziplock bags with a rechargeable desiccant pack in each bag. Works great.

 

[matrem]

You're getting very good advice here.

Haven't used WD40 as a lube(other than a time or two as emergency quick fix) for thirtysomeodd years, but still count on it to stop rust.

As these folks have said, air tight plastic containers & ziplock bags work well.

 

[PapaG]

I disagree on WD40 being a good rust preventer. It is a compromise thing, does displace water and does provide some lubrication. At the same time, it will crawl off a surface leaving little protection.
RIG would, is, my choice for long term storage of steel things, especially in environmentally unfriendly areas. Alcohol cleans it off quite easily.

 

[kcofohio]

WD40 will evaporate in time , it's a good light penetrating oil but for dies exposed to a not climate controlled environment, (I live in Louisiana and reload in a similar building), so can relate big time. Clean off the rust and treat them with a product like Birchwood Casey's Barricade, it was called Sheath, but the stuff is a light wax in a spray, the spray evaporates and leaves a thin dry wax film that protects steel real well. It's the best thing I've found.
Also a good automotive wax will work, wax clings to the surface better than oil and is not messy like grease. The spray stuff is just easier to apply....I even use it on my blued steel guns. Another thing is the wax can be used inside the dies and doesn't hurt or contaminate a thing...it's just a dry wax film!
Gary

I agree about the wax. I use furniture wax on my woodworking tools that are in the garage. It coats and protects the metal from the elements. And saw dust brushes right off. I tend to think that gun powder wouldn't stick to it either.

 

[LUCKYDAWG13]

for what it's worth i clean my dies about once a year i take them apart
squirt a little Kroil in them pull a patch through them like a little boar snake
clean threads with a brass brush i also put a little mobil one on the outside of my dies

 

[Rule3]

Go here for a pretty good review of most common lubes and rust prevention. Pretty extreme and for a long period of time.

There are some faults in his scientific method but give him a lot of credit for the time, work and expensive of doing these test. Regular WD 40 is in the upper 10 or so of rust prevention, the new WD 40 Specialist is at the top.

Everyone has their favorite for whatever reason They all work to some extent, depending on how often applied, Use what you like.I like to use whatever has some data or proof showing what it does rather than anecdotal opinion or my Dad used it.

http://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/274/review-comparison-gun-care-products

 

[Maj Dad]

HowardJ & gwpercle mentioned Barricade/Sheath, and it is one of the best I've used out side of RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease) - it is used by a lot of dealers at gun shows to keep metal from rusting from sweaty fingers. RIG goes on safe queens or ones that may get sloshed a little on a boat. I used WD-40 sprayed on till wet, then allowed to dry on about 40 guns while I was in Korea & they were in a closet in Alabama. No rust on return, so it certainly can work, but there are some things that are "better", in my opinion. You will have to decide on what to use, but as long as you use something, you are ahead of the game...

 

[fouled bore]

Thanks for all the good ideas. I am going to get some Barricade. I like the fact it will not contaminate the powder or primers. I know the WD-40 will keep them clean and keep them from finger printing but I know it is not good for power or primers. The food storage containers will work real well for stacking them also. I am really concerned this winter when I turn the heat on and everything starts sweating. I live in the Midwest where the air is mostly water.

 

[Walkalong]

Here in Alabama if you keep dies outside in a garage etc they will rust quickly if some sort of protection isn't kept on them. Cleaning often with a rag with that protection on it, and doing it often, is the best way to keep them rust free. It is asking a lot of a product to treat once and forget it.

Have light rust already? Tumble them clean. Slight discoloration is OK.

 

[Crashbox]

For exposed equipment, I use Johnson's Paste Wax and it seems to work well in my basement. For dies in the box I use the cardboard "coupons" that ship with ferrous metal stuff including the dies.

FWIW, I've been thinking of making my own "coupons" using sodium nitrite since I have a bunch of said chemical (but never use it on copper or brass). I suppose one could even make some sort of a solution of sodium nitrite and lanolin for use exclusively on exposed ferrous metals... (the boy chemist in me never dies...)

I'll stop there.

ETA: Sodium nitrite is a very common, long-used (though toxic) anti-corrosion agent.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

Rusty dies

My condolences.

Similar to the JP wax, I use Renaissance wax on my dies and other bare steel. Formulated for finer detail, recommended for museum quality work.

 

[Rule3]

Heat up some Cosmoline and dip them in there. Should hold them rust free for years!

I have a 12" cut of end of industrial rust proof paper that I won as a give away. I use it to wrap guns in. and some tools. If you get some you can just put it in a zip lock bag with anything you do not want to rust.

It is this stuff, different brand. Even $37 for 12" x 200 yards is a deal and would last you forever!

http://www.uline.com/BL_5250/VCI-Industrial-Paper-Rolls

 

[dmurdach]

I spray all mine with One shot before I put them up. It is what i use for case lube most of the time anyway. Seems to work well in my insulated, non heated/cooled shop in my barn. I do run a dehumidifier in there as well though.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

An old mechanic's trick to keep tools from rusting is to put a few mothballs in a tray in the drawer. Keeps the rust moths out.

 

[usfan]

Poor guy.. RIP, Rusty.

 

[fouled bore]

He was a trooper right up to the end.

Really, moth balls will prevent rust?

 

[Rule3]

The dichlorobenzene killed him.

 

[BCRider]

Another option is some form of dry film lubricant and protectant. Something like EEZOX?

If the dies are rusting then your barn is running at a higher internal humidity level than the outside air. No surprise there. It IS a barn after all. Insulation in the walls of the work room inside the barn won't do much on it's own. You need a sealed floor and vapor barriers in the walls and ceiling. And after all that you need a dehumidifier or air conditioning to draw out the moisture.

Another option is to slightly warm up the room. But if it's hot outside I imagine that's the last thing you want to do at this time of the year.