S.A. 1911 Bolo question

[content]

Hello friends and neighbors // I picked up a 1911 "Bolo" Machete recently and need some help.

First what is the proper name? When I check S.A. 1911 Bolo the Hospital Spatula version mainly comes up?


I can tell the Scabbard and Pommel are wrong for each other as one has a catch and the other does not.

The left side of the blade is stamped :S.A.(Springfield Armory) over flambing bomb over 1911.

The right side has U.S. over 6809.

The Scabbard is stamped A-K-Co. over 1918 over R.H.S.

I would like help figuring out the correct scabbard for the 1911 as well as any comments reguarding the Bolo components themselves being correct.

Thanks content

 

[JShirley]

That's a good looking knife.

 

[content]

Only a true knife lover would think so, TYVM

 

[kBob]

Actually I think this is rather nice and for me would have some historical suggnificance.

In the US Army when one fails to qualify with their individual weapon they are ( or were in my day) told, "you are a BOLO!"

This term appearently originated when US troops were training Phipipinos for their military and police back about when this knife was adopted. When someone was un able to learn to use a rifle they were issued....a bolo. There was also a bayonet version of this knife.

Interestingly when Fidel Castro was putting together his forces in Cuba Alberto Bayo encouraged him to take those that could not quickly grasp the use of a rifle and arm them with a Machette and make a big deal of calling them Macheterros and telling them how important weilding a machette was.

-kBob

 

[content]

Yes, I have read that Philipine Colonel Maximo Abad had "Bolomen" as infantry, in use against the Americans. They were not cutting trails for the riflemen they were an armed force, such as the one you indicate Castro was setting up.

I did not know this applied to U.S. troops too but someone hand to cut the trails and a failed rifleman works for me.

 

[rcmodel]

The correct name is Model 1910 Bolo.

You have the correct (canvas over wood with leather tip) scabbard for that time period.

A later Type 2 scabberd used in WWI was made by L.F.&C. and it is stamped sheet metal painted OD green.

rc

 

[content]

Ty rcmodel I've been searching 1911 grr,,,lol

Perhaps the Metal scabbard has the hook to hold the catch on my type of Bolo.
The catch would be uncomfortable digging into the web of your hand while chopping so I think it would be an early design, quickly removed.

 

[JimStC]

RC, you are an encyclopedia of knowledge and much appreciated on these forums. I'd settle for 10% of your knowledge.
That is indeed a beautiful knife! Have fun restoring it.

Jim

 

[content]

JimStC -- Ty for the kind comment. What kind of restoration would you do?

I'd like to take the electrical tape off but am afraid of what it is holding together.

I need to find out the proper care of Vellum. If it even is Vellum.

I have Michael Silvey's book --Knives of the U.S. Military WWII comming and hope to find his consolidation of Coles, 4 books in one volume soon.

Till then it is the net and on the net it is mostly here I like to ask these things.
***
The only thing I have done, other than oil it, is to partially remove one grip panel in hopes of finding some diamonds, gold or currency in the three holes drilled thru the hilt.

 

[rcmodel]

I'm getting confused?

Do you have two sheaths??

The canvas / leather one in the last photo is the one I was referring to as being the correct one.

But it looks a heck of a lot better then the sheath with the tape on it in the other photos!

rc

 

[content]

The Canvas cover slides off of the wood and calfskin sheath.

 

[rcmodel]

Oh right!

I forgot about that little detail!!

rc

 

[content]

I think the ugliness factor got to you momentarily,is all.

Would you remove the tape?

 

[JimStC]

Content,
Let me preface my comments by saying that I am not an expert by any definition of the term.
I would go to work on the blade with low grit polishing compound to determine the blade condition. I would buff out the rust and ageing and work with the blade to get an edge. I would use diamond stones and treated strops to get an edge. Once I had the blade figured out I would move to the handle and get an understanding of its composition.

Jim

 

[content]

TYVM for the quick reply Jim

 

[JimStC]

Your tape removal question depends on what you are planning to do with the knife. Is it to keep it period correct or to restore the knife and sheath?
If is the latter, try selling the sheath for its collectability. I do believe that has been compromised by the tape. Nonetheless, you don't know until you put it out for sale.
I feel that the knife is a keeper. With some care and attention you will have a nice historically significant blade, at least by my thinking. Again, I am by no means an expert and look forward to hso, John Shirley and Sam 1911 weighing in on the subject.
Good luck and have fun with this project.

Jim

 

[content]

I have read the 1917 sheath is slightly different then the 1910 sheath which has the hook to match the catch on my, 1911 dated, Bolo.
So if I luck into a 1910 hooked sheath at least I'll know.

I also appears the A-K-C0 1918 is the only one with a steel drain hole at the leather tip.
Making them easy to identify.

 

[JShirley]

I would consider carefully before you do any work on the knife itself.

Personally, the most I would do is soak it in mineral oil- OIL, not spirits- and rub it very gently. If you want to occasionally take it out and play with it, I'd personally get another sheath.

In general, I want to leave historical items alone as much as possible. Any "restoration" done should be minimal and as un-invasive as possible. If there was no history here, I'd go with Jim's suggestion. As is, I just suggest stopping the rust and helping any surface rust that "wants" to leave off.

John

 

[content]

JShirley,,TY for the advise.
I have wiped the Bolo with Birchwood Casey Barricade, did not rub enough to even remove the white paint, and hand buffed some rust off the hilt with the oily rag.

After reading more, I do not think this Bolo will even get sharpened .

It is one of the first 7000 made of this design with a total of 60,000.
The S.A. 1910 (mine is 1911 manuf.) is much rarer and apparently better made than the later 1917 manuf.
Many of the sheath locking "clips" were removed to make the Bolos more comfortable in the hand when used.

The combination makes this knife too "historical" for me to use.


---The Sheath is another story.
Despite wanting to clean the green off and remove the electrical tape, I've done nothing as I don't want to damage it.

If I find a 1910 Sheath the 1918 A-K-Co might get a little work but for now "Reading about them " is the next step.The green can stay, if it adds to the untouched factor, but the tape will probably go at some point.

The more I learn about this Bolo the happier I am to have purchased it.

Thanks for the interest!
Anyone else have one? Like to share what you know?

 

[JShirley]

You could do a favor for me, if you have the time and inclination.

If you can, please take a picture from above of the Bolo with a ruler laid next to it for scale.

Again, it's a beautiful piece, and thank you for sharing it with us.

John

 

[content]

Certainly, thank you for asking,for the knowledge pill and for the kind words.


The blade should be 10 1/4" long. Not too bad with possibly 100 years of sharpening.
I have not found the proper width yet.

 

[JShirley]

Thank you, that's perfect.

J