S&B 357 Mag Brass with small primer

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Parks2055

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I have some S&B 357 brass that appears to have a primer that is smaller than the standard small pistol primer?
Is this a custom primer size? I don't think my WSP primers are going to fit in there.
Anyone seen this before?
 
I will grab my camera from work and snap a couple pictures.
They don't look crimped, just smaller.
Maybe the primers I am comparing to are flattened from presure?
 
They may just appear to be smaller do to a minimal amount of chamfer.
reloading.jpg
 
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I have some S&B brass as well and RWS, They all have tight primer pockets but none of them have crimped pockets. Take a good look in there in case they do but from my own experience they are just really really tight pockets.
 
They're just snug. Priming ease will depend on the priming system you're using. Some do better than others with tight primer pockets.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Aren't they actually Fiocchi rather than S&B?
GFL is the Fiocchi head stamp S&B is Sellier&Bellot.
My photo was to illustrate a point.
Reread more carefully.
 
My photo was to illustrate a point.
Reread more carefully.

Why use a Fiocchi then? I guess you didn't have any S&B, but then, why take a picture?

No biggie, just didn't make sense to me.
 
Picture of Primer

Here is a pic of the primer in question on the S&B case between a Federal and Winchester. It just looks smaller. Even after I punch the primer out - the hole looks smaller, but I have not tried to seat a new primer yet.
I have the hornady reaming tool. If it is just the camfer - How much metal is okay to take off?
That tool seems to take metal off pretty fast - just give it a couple turns or will it bottom out and stop removing metal?
 

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40 cal Lellier & Bellot (LB)? brass

Having the same problem with Lellier & Bellot brass. I even measured the primer pocket with a micrometer and the pocket is smaller thet the federal brass. Winchester primers are very difficlut to seat and some primers are just crushed.
 
S&B (sorry) not L&B

Sorry was looking at teh box and it looked like an 'L' the brass stamp is S&B

Rookie mistake
 
On the topic of primers. What is different about the Non-Toxic primers used in Federal and Winchester NT rounds.
Is it lead or other toxins that are removed from those primers?
I have some Federal NT that I need to remove the crimp from and wondered what the difference is and are they higher pressure that requires the crimp?
 
The NT primer is more violent. They had problems with them backing out, so they crimp them now.
 
Non-Toxic primers contain Diazodinitrophenol (DDNP) priming compound, while our "standard" primers contain Lead Styphnate priming compound. The brisance of the DDNP compound is much higher than the brisance of the lead styphnate compound, hence the opening up of the flash holes and crimping of the primer pockets. Both were found to enhance the ability to keep the NT primers from backing out of the primer pockets so fast that they became excessively flattened when the case is driven back against the bolt face by the pressure of the burning powder. Even with those enhancements, NT primers will still appear more flattened than Lead Styphnate primers.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Didn't mean to cause a stir.
I maybe shaken but I'm not stirred :)
The difference in primer pocket diameters would be visually hard to discern with de-primed brass. I my pic I was just illustrating how the amount of chamfer can create the illusion.
 
I have the hornady reaming tool. If it is just the camfer - How much metal is okay to take off?

Just enough to provide a bevel to ease in seating.

If you use a primer pocket uniforming tool, that will give you the correct depth and uniform the width- but does NOT bevel the outside of the pocket as you are seeing on other headstamps and may desire. The proper use of a primer pocket uniformer would be to apply sufficient pressure to remove material until the cutter stops. It is designed to stop at the head of the tool once proper depth is achieved.

If you wish to add a bevel to the opening to aid in priming, I would go no more than about twice the width whats used in beveling case mouths. You could use an inside chamfer tool such as what is used for prepping the case necks of cartridges. If your chamfer tool contacts the primer pocket bottom, or fits inside the flash hole, I would advise against using that tool.
I would do this manually, not on a machine. That is, until you get the hang of how much is enough, and how much is too much.

It does not need to be deep. If you do so, you risk removing too much of the material that keeps the primer in place along its length.
 
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I don't care for S&B brass, it doesn't hold up very well at all. And so far as the primers, they're just tight pockets on those S&B's.
 
I'm one of those oddities that reloads 7.62x25.
I've found the S&B brass really does a nice job for this caliber.

I also have some PPU (& nny which I've been informed is PPU in Cyrillic)
I've had some chambering issues with this brass that I don't see with the S&B.
 
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