S&B Primer Pockets

[Beancounter81]

I haven't had any issues seating Winchester SP primers in S&B 9 MM brass (the real brass, not the plated steel stuff). Seating on a Dillon 550b.

 

[Deavis]

My method for tight pocket is if it won't prime, I pull it out and pitch it regardless of headstamp. If it is hard to prime, I prime it and shoot it. Make the distinction on your press, skip the uniformer, load the ammo, and go shooting.

 

[zxcvbob]

Don't pitch it! I have at least a thousand pieces of S&B .38 Special brass that various people gave to me. It's good stuff, once I swage the primer pockets (Dillon Super Swage)

Federal primers will probably work even without swaging the pockets. If not, try just chamfering them (easier and cheaper than swaging)

Don't even think about using Remington or Wolf primers in S&B brass without cleaning up the pockets first -- but you on'y have to do it once.

 

[TonyT]

S&B brass is excellent although it presents some challenges during the first priming. I be;lieve it has to do with the profile of the primer pocket which is apparently cut rather than swaged. You can alleviate the problem by using a deburring tool on the primer pocket.

 

[Clark]

The S&B 7.62x25mm brass is the best, and has no primer seating issues.

The S&B 7.62x54R brass has the wrong radius in the bottom corner of the primer pocket.
The primer will not seat deep enough.
I correct that with a Lyman primer pocket uniformer.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/primer-pocket-uniformer.php

I do not get the 7.62x54R brass from S&B any more. I now get Lapua brass so I don't have to mess with it.

 

[Josh45]

I have no problem seating my primers in S&B cases for the 38 spcl or the 357 magnum. Yes, They are tight and take a little more oomph with the hand prime tool but it does set flush for me.

 

[Jeff H]

Federal primers will probably work even without swaging the pockets. If not, try just chamfering them (easier and cheaper than swaging)

Don't even think about using Remington or Wolf primers in S&B brass without cleaning up the pockets first -- but you on'y have to do it once.

Are the guys that say S&B brass is hard to prime using hand held primers? Using a press, I can feel that S&B takes a little more effort but nothing serious. I'm doing a batch of mixed 9mm right now with Tula primers and I'm not having any issues with S&B brass, nor have I ever. The stupid NATO brass that sneaks through with the crimp still intact does cause problems though.

 

[LiveLife]

Are the guys that say S&B brass is hard to prime using hand held primers?

I hand prime and press prime.

If you have loose/enlarged primer pockets, larger diameter Tula primers will seat easier and fully .004" below flush. But for once fired brass with tight primer pockets, especially for super tight S&B brass, often they will simply deform/flatten flush instead of seating fully in the pocket.

In comparison, Winchester primers will easily seat in the once-fired brass and only require "firm" pressure in hand primer to seat fully in S&B brass.

 

[rikman]

I had prime with robs tool & Dillon 550B

 

[1KPerDay]

While we're on the subject... have any of you had 'flattened/crushed' primers that wouldn't ignite?

When I've made a mistake or had a really tight primer pocket or crimped Nato 9mm brass or something, I pull that case and pop the primer in a gun before I decap it and start over. The primers have always ignited.

 

[rikman]

All of the flattened/squished primers all went bang, I used Federal match SPP and CCI SPP's