S&W 340 M&P bullet pull issues?

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megatronrules

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I was wondering if the 340 M&P's have been known to have any issues with the bullets in the cylinder pulling themselves loose under recoil? I know the 340PD guns with the titainium cylinders would do this with bullets under 120gr's in weight.

It was my understanding that this issue was resolved on the M&P guns due to the use of a stainless steel cylinder,hence no nullet weight restrictions are printed on the M&P's barrel. Is this correct,does thie mean I can use lead bullets or .357/.38 caliber bullets in the 110,125gr. weight with out any issues? Have any M&P owners here had any bullet pull isses with their guns? thanks.
 
I haven't had any issues with mine. I think that it really depends on the quality of ammo you are using. It is less likely to happen in jacketed bullets because the crimp generally holds stronger. The smith and wesson manual says that when using a new ammo to fire the first 4 shots, then remove the 5th round and check if the bullet is pulling out of the crimp. I've heard of it happening with the PD but don't recall any stories about the M&P. That's not to say that it doesn't happen, but you probably won't have any issues.
 
thanks man I'll do that with any new ammo I use. Also was this the reason there were ammo weight restrictions on the PD models with their titanium cylinders? I'll be using only factory jacket ammo like golden saber or gold dot JHP's for defensive use,if this matters at all?
 
I have experienced minor bullet pull problems--very rare--with some factory 110-gr. ammo, and with some of my own reloads in my M&P340. With my own ammo, it was merely a matter of dialling in more crimp--which is part of any load development issue.

My guess is that the nationally-based manufacturing specs, (if there are any) for crimp / pull issues were simply not developed with power / bullet weight, and firearms weight / recoil issues for these very light firearms. Is it because the nominal difference in weight between the PD and the M&P versions is the threshold? I dunno...

FWIW, I've found that for carry ammo, I prefer to use 'the FBI load' (38+P, 158-gr. LSWC-HP at about 800+ fps), the GDSB 135-gr. 38+P round (135-gr, appr. 860+ fps), or a handloaded 357 round I call the 'FBI900.' A high-end factory round is the BB20A--that's a 38"+P+" 158-gr. LSWC running at 1000 fps from a 2" barrel. (That's accurate--I've chrono'ed it.)

IOW, I generally go with the greater-weight / better penetration theory. YMMV.

Jim H.
 
No problems here even with COR BON Plus P 110 gr. I tried it just to qualify if, just in case, usually I run Plus P 135 grain and have only run 135 grain in .357.

JFH above probably has more experience with ammunition, both factory and home rolled through a M&P 340 than anyone else I have encountered.

So to quote an old phrase...."what he said". ;)
 
On Page 14 of the S&W Safety & Instruction Manual for Revolvers it states the following:
"ALL SCANDIUM REVOLVERS FIRING MAGNUM AMMUNITION
WARNING: DO NOT USE MAGNUM® LOADINGS WITH BULLET WEIGHTS OF LESS THAN 120 GR. THIS WILL REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF PREMATURE CYLINDER EROSION."


It was explained to me that the burning characteristics of the powders used in the lighter bullet weight loads can increase the potential for erosion of the titanium cylinders inside the charge holes and on the front of the cylinder face. Once the surface layer of the titanium is breached the erosion can occur faster.

The bullet jump issue is explained on the same page of the manual regarding the Ti, Sc & PD revolvers.
"Before placing any of these reduced weight revolvers into service, perform the following test to determine the suitability of the ammunition you intend to use.

At a gun range or other suitable and safe location, prepare your revolver for firing by fully loading its cylinder with the ammunition to be tested. While pointing the firearm in a safe direction, fire all but the last round. Remove the empty casings and the last loaded round from the revolver’s cylinder.

Carefully inspect the loaded round to determine if its bullet has started to unseat (move forward) from its casing.(Figure 2) If it has, you should not use the tested ammunition in your revolver. Choose another projectile weight or brand of ammunition and repeat this test until you find one that DOES NOT UNSEAT under these test conditions. When you are finished, fully unload your revolver and secure it safely."


When I first took my M&P 340 to the range I tried it with a mix of a few different jacketed Magnum loads. I found at least a couple of them which exhibited some degree of bullet pull (slight unseating of the bullet) when checked in the recommended manner, and a couple which didn't.

That was in my M&P 340, on that day, using those boxes/production lots of ammunition.

While I don't make it a practice to carry Magnum loads in my M&P 340 (although I'll use them during qualification and some practice), if I exhaust the remaining Magnum rounds in the boxes of ammunition which I checked with favorable results in my M&P 340, I'll perform the same tests once again with new ammunition ... even if it's the same make/bullet weight. Any variance in production regarding the sizing & crimp might change things in this regard and I want to confirm proper functioning with the exact loads/boxes/production lots I'm using. (I also test each +P load, for that matter.)

Now, something else which ought to be considered is the grip technique used by an individual shooter/owner. During one of my conversations with someone at the factory one time I learned that they had received a 360PD back for a customer complaint that it had exhibited bullet pull when he was shooting 158gr JHP Magnum loads. The gun didn't exhibit that issue when checked by the factory ... until they thought to try shooting the gun with a less-than-firm grip, at which time they could get some bullets to unseat themselves.

It seems that they didn't expect someone shooting these little pocket cannons would ever use anything less than a strong grip when shooting these hard-kicking little guns, and it may now sometimes be possible for someone to 'limp-wrist' one of these lightweight Magnum revolvers. :eek:

It was basically explained to me that it appeared that when a less-firm grip was used when shooting these little guns, it might be possible for the gun to move rearward under recoil faster than they had anticipated would occur when someone using a strong grip was shooting the gun. In those circumstances it might be possible for some bullets, depending on the crimp, to not be able to keep up with the rearward moving case when a less stable grip technique was being used.

I think these little guns are right out there at the very edge of combining a hard-kicking Magnum caliber in a diminutive ultralite gun in the hands of a human being. :what:

If I want to shoot Magnum loads I'll use my Ruger SP101, or buy a Model 640, 649 or 60 and get larger grips. ;)

I've repeatedly demonstrated that I can rapidly and accurately fire 2-3 shot strings on silhouette COM at reasonable defensive distances (1-10+ yards) using one of the Airlite Magnum J-frames ... but it's nothing I'd even remotely consider enjoyable. :uhoh:

FWIW, I really like my M&P 340. I replaced the Bantam grips with the stock Boot grips (which is supposed to add an ounce) and I can still notice it's lighter in my pocket holster than my 642.

I didn't buy the M&P for the Magnum chambering, though, but for the enhanced Scandium aluminum frame and the XS front night sight. Sort of an 'improved' 642/442, as it were. It works well in the role for me. Being able to occasionally use Magnum loads is a secondary benefit, and one which I seldom use outside of qualification and some practice. I simply prefer +P loads in mine. If they had offered the 642 with a blackened stainless frame and XS night sight I'd have bought it, instead.

That's just me, though.
 
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