S&W 40, 40-1: that $*#@! grip safety.

[Col. Harrumph]

Really bites... figuratively and literally. Painful shooting! I'd like to get rid of the thing and fill in the backstrap slot with some metal filler.

Recommendations?

 

[edwardware]

Sell it, because it's a neat old gun with an interesting feature, and buy a snubbie. No reason to sporterize an interesting old piece when so many modern alternatives are available.

 

[1KPerDay]

Sell it, trade it. I think the lemon squeezers are cool as heck. Never shot one, though.

 

[stchman]

I agree, don't modify that gun. If you do modify it, you remove ALL value from it. If you want a .38SPL range gun to play with, go get a Taurus Model 85. New they're like $300, but I've seen them used for about $225.

 

[gotboostvr]

You could zip tie it flush, drill a hole through the grip/grip safety and drive a roll pin through it. The grips will hide the roll pin, and if you do it in the right spot it wouldn't show if you "reactivated" it by removing the roll pin.

I wouldn't though, I'd keep it as is and find something more to your liking for a shooter.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

Thanks for the replies... I guess I should have made it clear: this is a 40-1, not an old 40. S&W made a short run of them some time ago; I bought this one new about 10 years ago. And the reason I chose it above all the other J frames available then (or now) is because it doesn't have that damnable lock under the release latch thumb-piece; I suppose the lawyers allowed the grip safety to be an adequate substitute.

As I don't have a curious four year-old at home the grip safety serves no useful purpose. I wouldn't mid it except that the darn thing concentrates recoil into a small area of the hand, which makes shooting this revolver a distinctly more unpleasant experience than it should be. And because, as shown, it stands proud of the grip frame the usual fix for this, replacement grips, is not available.

The whole grip safety assembly (including the hammer block) can be removed without damaging the gun and would be re-installable should the next owner want that useless-to-me function restored. But removing it would leave a large longitudinal slot open in the grip frame which would need to be filled if replacement grips of the cushy rubber kind are to survive firing. I was just hoping someone here had dealt with this and found a solution.

 

[fireman 9731]

Could you maybe find a set of grips that covers the backstrap? Depress the grip safety, install the grips, and voila, problem solved.

 

[Wishoot]

Wrap it with an old piece of bike inner tube.

Whatever you do, do not modify this little gem. You may not like this gun, but there are plenty of buyers out there.

 

[bannockburn]

I recall sometime back, as gotboostvr mentioned, that some owners drilled a hole in the frame and pinned it in place, much like some 1911 owners use to do with the grip safety on their guns. But I would think that selling it and using the proceeds to get a Model 442 without the internal lock would be the easy way to go.

 

[1KPerDay]

Crimson trace makes some j frame grips with a 2 layer integral backstrap pad with air between the layers... you might try looking into that grip and see if it works. I have it on my .357 M&P 340 and it brings the pain down to just excruciating.

 

[RecoilRob]

Agree with the 'pin it' camp....very simple and the later guns were drilled for it from the factory according to these fellows: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/468149-model-40-1-schematic-photo.html

 

[revolvergeek]

Really bites... figuratively and literally. Painful shooting! I'd like to get rid of the thing and fill in the backstrap slot with some metal filler.
View attachment 786270
Recommendations?

Like everybody said even though it is a modern revolver it is scarce and somewhat collectible, so I would say either pin it and find a set of grips (Pach. Compacs?) that can be modified to cover it up, or sell it off and buy an older 640 in .38 spl as a replacement.

 

[Waveski]

Drilling and pinning is a modification. I would not modify such a classy little snub. Nor would I not carry or trust a revolver which depends on a wrap around grip to hold the safety in. One little shift , no bang.

I had a Lemon Squeezer just like that , only in nickle. It was pristine , it was beautiful. A little gem of a classic. Unfortunately , I hated shooting it , just like you. I traded it for a revolver that I loved to shoot , and never looked back. I suggest that you choose a similar solution to your problem.

 

[BSA1]

You could zip tie it flush, drill a hole through the grip/grip safety and drive a roll pin through it. The grips will hide the roll pin, and if you do it in the right spot it wouldn't show if you "reactivated" it by removing the roll pin.

I am of the impression that they already have a hole drilled through the grip frame and the safety lever so all the user has to do is depress the lever and drop a pin in it the hole. (At least the original ones did). The pin is covered by the grips so it is not visible and the grips hold the pin in place. A pin will be easy to make from a small nail.

If it does not already have the internal pin holes I would have a good gunsmith with a drill press drill them for you. This does require a drill press and good bit as the steel is hard and you want the holes drilled precisely.

I sure hope the O.P decides to sell it rather than ruining a fine no-lock gun.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

I sure hope the O.P decides to sell it rather than ruining a fine no-lock gun.

I guess I should respond to that since several have expressed the same concern. Rest assured, if I make a change, it will be completely reversible... which is why I won't be drilling that hole. (Also, pinning the safety lever down would not solve my problem with this gun.)