S&W 586 vs 686

Status
Not open for further replies.

Waveski

Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Messages
3,176
Location
43 north
I have been eyeballing a 6" nickel Smith 586 at the LGS for a while now. I have a K38 Combat Masterpiece 4", which is a great shooter. The larger frame (L?) and longer barrel makes the 586 look like a very good target gun.

Any experience out there , with this piece? Can anyone offer a 586/686 comparison?
 
Unless for some reason the particular example is a junker, you will have a nice revolver.

The finish and type of steel used are the only real differences between the 586 and 686. Of course now someone will jump up and scream that if you don't have the exact same model that they do you are a fool.

Enjoy your new piece.
 
Nickel guns are nice to look at, but I believe SS guns are far more durable. Just a thought.... you could get a 686 and have it buffed to a high shine if you like SS.

If not, I think you'd do fine with either. I have a 686 Competitor, and a 3" 686+ Talo version. Both are great guns and handle magnums without a problem. Nill Grips makes some really nice walnut grips if you want to personalize it a bit.

Good luck! Let us know what you get.
 
I, too, love nickel plated revolvers, but ultimately I'll go with the 686. That way, any dings or nicks can be easily polished out of the gun. You also shouldn't use Hoppes cleaning solution with a nickel revolver, as the Hoppes will compromise the finish of your gun.

If you shoot your gun outdoors a lot, the stainless will fight the weather while its finish won't pick up light and broadcast your position like a nickle version will. In other words, either version ought to make you positively giddy with excitement, and either will last the rest of your sad, pathetic life (oh, wait, that's me). Anyway, we expect you to at least post a photo of whichever gun you choose.

Good luck! And don't forget to check out the basics: end shake, looseness, sideplate screws, cylinder gap, and the rest.

sW686_1a-2.gif

sW686_2-3.gif

SW686_4.gif

Photos of my 686. Stainless can be polished until one would find
it difficult to tell from nickel. Still, nickel is gorgeous.
 
Last edited:
I have a 686-no dash and it came with one of the sweetest DA/SA triggers right out of the box. Accuracy has been great. I also second the notion that if it you like the looks of nickel plating, all it takes is some Mother's Mag Polish and a little effort on your part to give a stainless steel gun a mirror-like finish.
 
To me, the x86 comes down to personal preference. I have both a 586 (blue), and two 686's, and I'd still like to get a nickel model 586. The actions in all of them are silky smooth, typical of the way S&W has built their modern revolvers.

I've firef all of them from rests, and there's virtually no difference in the accuracy.

Nickel is probably a bit more durable than blue. I used a bit of Mothers Mag Polish on them, and keep a coating of Johnson's Paste Wax on all my nickel and blue revolvers.

If the nickel really floats your boat, go for it. You only go around once. Good Luck.
 
Can anyone offer a 586/686 comparison?
.357 perfection in carbon vs. stainless. Or in this case, nickel coated carbon vs. stainless.

Some say the carbon steel action is smoother, but for the life of me, their ability to perceive a noticeable difference means they shoot more than I do because they both are awesome in that regard.

Typically nickel costs and has a bit higher value than blued when new.

If you live in humid area near water you can argue stainless is better than carbon for that environment.

I like mine dark blue with black rubber for shooting. YMMV

6" 586 on the bottom with a 25-7 and a 29-5 Classic for company.

SWtrio-1.jpg
 
As already said there is no practical difference between the M586 and M686, only a finish difference. Both are L frame revolvers.

From my experience Stainless Steel will hold up better under heave use than Nickel. If you are going to shoot that revolver a lot and you said you were going to you might want to buy a M686. That is unless you don't mine the looks of the Nickel getting a little thin.

I agree the longer 6" barrel is a plus in a range gun. The longer sight radius does aid in more accurate shooting.

You can't go wrong with a S&W L frame .357 Magnum revolver. (IMO of course)
 
I'll take S&W nickel over stainless any day of the week. A 686 is probably a very good but soul-less tool and too plain vanilla for my tastes. Only complaint about the 586 is the orange insert/white outline sights but that's remedied easily enough.
 
The only difference between the 2 models is carbon steel for the 586 versus stainless steel for the 686. To me, it's simply a matter of which finish you like best.
 
In my opinion, the S&W Model 586 is the best double action .357 Magnum revolver ever made. Would pick it over the Model 27 or the Python any day.

Bob Wright
 
Besides steel used, the only real material difference is that you have the option of getting it in 7-rounds as the 686+.

My 586 6" has a butter-smooth trigger and a beautiful deep blue luster than can only be done by traditional hot salts bluing. I agree that the 686 is a great tool, but the 586 comes with a "soul"!
 
In my opinion, the S&W Model 586 is the best double action .357 Magnum revolver ever made. Would pick it over the Model 27 or the Python any day.

The nice thing about the 586/686 as opposed to the 27 is, you can seat the 358429 at it's proper length so that the crimp is in the crimp groove.

Don
 
Any experience out there , with this piece? Can anyone offer a 586/686 comparison?

Except for material, as said, there is virtually no difference between a 586 and a 686.

I used to not be big on nickel plated S&Ws until I got a nickel Model 14. The nickel plating has a certain luster about it that you cannot get with a stainless revolver. If the 6" 586 is in good condition, i would probably get it.

My wife has a 4" 586 and I have a 4" 686. Both are good shooters.
 
I have a 686-no dash and it came with one of the sweetest DA/SA triggers right out of the box. Accuracy has been great.
The no-dash version may be the best .357 ever made.

When the 586/686 came out, Smith & Wesson wanted it to be its version of the Colt Python. They put a long underlug on the barrel and they really watched the tolerances. They wanted a gun that had the approximate weight, holding characteristics, slick action and superb accuracy that the Python had. And the gun magazine hacks were quick to run comparisons of the Smith and the Python. When they published their accuracy comparisons, it was clear that S&W had successfully produced its own Python.

Some people (like me) weren't exactly thrilled with the weight and the underlug barrels. These made the 586/686 a wonderful range gun, but unfortunately, Smith had produced a horrible trail/outdoor/camping gun. To make matters worse, Smith stopped production of the excellent Model 66 6-incher. Hunters who wanted a decent trail or hunting gun soon found they only had one viable alternative: the outstanding Ruger Security-Six. Then Ruger, for some insane reason, decided to "improve" the Security-Six by replacing it with a heavier, front-heavy gun that is a nightmare to carry in the field or pack while camping. In short, Ruger clearly wanted to steal Smith's thunder, but it wasn't able to deliver on a smooth action or superb accuracy. It's GP-100 is, in my view, a kludge that has poor balance and accuracy that is no better than the Security-Six. And it blazes a trail right through the point of diminishing returns. Is it rugged? Yes, but so was the Security-Six. So what did it give us that made it better? Less recoil? People who carry guns more than they shoot them really don't find that an improvement.

While I'm ranting, though the GP-100 resembles the 586/686, what most people don't see is that Ruger cut a brutal corner when it cut away the steel grip and put the support in a wooden grip. Thus, if one picks up a Security-Six and a GP-100, the latter tips forward, changing both the center of mass and the center of balance. Clearly the Smith 586/686 has far superior balance over the Ruger; and a 4-inch 686 has exceptional balance and a center of mass.

So the no-dash version of the 586/686 may be the best you can get, because it was designed to go head-to-head with the Python. But in truth, the current 686s may be equally as accurate. I've never checked them or seen anyone else who has compared them. Many people don't like the MIM parts in modern revolvers, but they add greatly to the smoothness of actions because they're not machined. That's why S&W revolvers and Ruger LCR revolvers have ice smooth actions. If there are any negative aspects (other than they're ugly on stainless guns), I don't know them. But I would prefer S&W to at least hard chrome the parts, ensuring that the parts don't wear.

SW686.gif

The no-dash 686 is beautiful. Wood grips, hard chromed hammers and
triggers and an integral front sight (not pinned). Unlike Pythons, the S&W
586/686 have larger pawls and aren't as subject to going out of time.
 
Last edited:
every used 586 ive seen online in the last week, well it gives me the warm warm fuzzies. 686s just cant seem to do that.
 
Confederate -

You may call that a rant if you wish , but it is a damn good one. Very informative.

I have a Browning BDA in nickel which does not speak to me ; I have been considering trading it. I was planning on driving an hour to a gun show this afternoon to see what's up for grabs. Maybe I'll hit the LGS instead , see what I can wrangle on that 585.... Decisions...
 
Offered the LGS owner a low round Browning(Beretta built) BDA in nickel , low round count with box and manual + $100 cash for the 586 no dash and he turned me down! DAMN!


From all I've read here , combined with my general tastes and tendencies , I am now in the hunt for that Smith.
 
I've had both, in 4" version. I sold the 686 as at the time I didn't need it. I bought what the gent called a beater, first year model 586 that has the M modification stamp and I could not be more delighted with this revolver. This one has lots of miles on it and it is still a joy to shoot. I'll never wear it out.

Stu
 

Attachments

  • 686 left1.jpg
    686 left1.jpg
    108.3 KB · Views: 34
  • 586 left.jpg
    586 left.jpg
    125.9 KB · Views: 56
Walkalong ,

It's not so much the search now , it's the deal. The seller and I are quite familiar with each other. We'll see what happens.

Stu , if your beater is the blued one in the photo , that is a nice beater.
 
original 586 versus current 586 classic, just what have they changed other then finish, barrel profile, top strap, sight profile, hammer,?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top