S&W 586 vs 686

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from Google, changes to 586 & 686 over the years:

Model 586 Variants[edit]
586, 1981 Intro
586-1, 1986 Radius stud package, floating hand.
586-2, 1987 Change hammer nose and associated parts.
586-M, 1987 Product warning by S&W, M overstamp to indicate factory (mod for 586 and 586-1)
586-3, 1988 New yoke retention system. 1992 Delete 8 3/8" barrel and four-position front site. 1992 Delete nickel finish
586-4 1994 Drill and tap, synthetic grips, change rear site and extractor. 1995 Delete square butt. 1997 Delete 8 3/8" barrel, change to MIM thumb piece.
586-5, 1998 Change design to eliminate cylider stop stud. Change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin, change to MIM trigger, change internal lockworks.
586-7, 2006 Limited Edition. 7-shot variant only.
586-8, 2012 Reintroduced under Smith & Wesson's Classic lineup. 6-shot only.
Model 686 Variants[edit]
The Smith & Wesson Model 686 is a stainless-steel version of the post-1980 L-frame revolver.

686 no dash, introduced model
686-1, 1986, radius stud package, floating hand
686-2, 1987, changed hammer nose, bushing and associated parts
686-3, 1988, new yoke retention system
686-4, 1993, change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, change extractor, hogue grips
686-5, 1997, change frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud, eliminate serrated tangs, change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin, change to MIM trigger, change internal lockwork
686-6, 2001, internal lock
 
I foolishly sold a 4" 686 no dash. The one I regret the most of the ones I let get away.
 
Deal made. Traded the Browning BDA , plus $250 for the 586 no-dash in nickel. We agreed on a value of $750 for the 586 "Distinguished Combat Magnum" , (boy - they don't name guns like they used to!) , so the trade in value for the BDA was $500. No one made out like a bandit on the deal , but everyone is comfortable. The factor which kept me in the hunt is that the 586 is a no-dash ; that really motivated me.

Now I will have a J-frame , K-frame , and an L-frame ; all in nickel. I feel pretty good about that.

Photos will follow in a few days after the waiting period expires.
 
Congrats. I am sure you will enjoy it.

I will have a J-frame , K-frame , and an L-frame ; all in nickel.

Now you need an N Frame in Nickle. I walked into the shop and there it was. I went home and came back with trade fodder, cause I had to have it.

It never stops....... :)
 
I have a 6" 686 Power Port and a 4" 586-3. Both have scary smooth actions and light crisp triggers. The 686 was born accurate and easily outshoots my Python. The 586 was a born turkey. After multiple trips back to Smith (the last one cost $), it's finally a shooter.

They're mostly very good; but not all.
 
Confederate, your opinion of the Ruger GP100 exactly matches my own. Why-oh-why did Ruger ditch the excellent Security Six to build that dog?

If they ever come to their senses and re-introduce the Sec. Six as a "Classic" or something, I'd buy one....or two. And I've already got a couple.
 
Why-oh-why did Ruger ditch the excellent Security Six to build that dog?
Answer (from Bill Ruger IIRC)
"Well, that was our first double-action revolver. It’s given great service, but my recollections of it are of the difficulty we had in learning how to make the inherently more intricate double-action revolvers. I don’t think we made a penny out of any Security-Six, but many shooters still like them."
found here...
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-351160.html
 
I said :

"I will have a J-frame , K-frame , and an L-frame ; all in nickel."

Walkalong said:

"Now you need an N Frame in Nickle. "

Just so happens , the LGS owner is tempting the bejeebers out of me with a model 29-3 in nickel , 8 3/8" barrel . --- $800!
 
waveski trade him your car if you have to to get that model 29-3 I know I would if given the opportunity
 
I much prefer stainless or blue to the nickel. The nickel is very pretty, but once it's damaged, it can't be touched up or polished out like blue or stainless can.
 
Mr diyj98 , your point is well taken. I used to feel that way too. I have several pieces in stainless. I love to polish that surface ; it just keeps getting better and better.

However , I have fallen prey to allure of nickel. Kind of like the call of a siren...
 

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waveski trade him your car if you have to to get that model 29-3 I know I would if given the opportunity

Haha! I tried trading my car for an interesting x86 about a month ago but the LGS wouldn't do it.

It was blued and stamped as a 686, but the label on the box with the matching serial number said 586. It was a pro shop gun, some kind of custom build I guess. Damn fine ported 7 shot revolver, but I didn't have 1400 to spare.

My old trusty 686-4 would have probably gotten jealous anyway. It was the 1st gun I paid money for and still love it. It's my go to gun for alot of purposes. Some people have said they're better than the pythons... And I do like my 686 alot, but I like my dad's python just a bit more.
 
My old trusty 686-4 would have probably gotten jealous anyway. It was the 1st gun I paid money for and still love it. It's my go to gun for alot of purposes. Some people have said they're better than the pythons... And I do like my 686 alot, but I like my dad's python just a bit more.

I'll take the Python for collecting, but for a hard use as a shooter I'd go with a 686 every time. In my opinion, the S&W lockwork holds up better over time.
 
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