S&W 617 Questions

[powwowell]

I have a new S&W Model 617, with a 4 inch barrel. I have not fired it yet and I need a few questions answered, before I do. This is my first S&W and after getting over the price shock, I don't want to do anything that would injure it. Would some of you knowledgeable fellows chime in?

1) Where can I get different grips? The grips that came with the revolver have deep finger grooves. They feel too deep. The grips seem to be too large. Are there any grips that feel similar to the Ruger SP101 rubber hogue grips?

2) Shouldn't there have been a parts drawing (schematic) in the manual? It looks like S&W intentionally left the drawing out.

3) Should the revolver be taken down, cleaned and lubed befor using? The cylinder is stiff when opening and closing. When using the ejector, just testing it, there is a slight metal-to-metal sound. When spinning the cylinder, there is a metal-to-metal sound.

Thanks for any answers to my questions.

 

[MrBorland]

Congrats on your 617.

1) Where can I get different grips? The grips that came with the revolver have deep finger grooves. They feel too deep. The grips seem to be too large. Are there any grips that feel similar to the Ruger SP101 rubber hogue grips?

There are a ton of grip choices for this gun. For small-ish rubber grips, though, check out Pachmayr's Compac or (even smaller) (shown on an SP101, byw) Compac Pro grips. You can get both at Midway.

2) Shouldn't there have been a parts drawing (schematic) in the manual? It looks like S&W intentionally left the drawing out.

If you're interested in knowing what the innards of a S&W revolver look like, get a copy of the Kuhnhausen manual, or check out this link.

3) Should the revolver be taken down, cleaned and lubed befor using? The cylinder is stiff when opening and closing. When using the ejector, just testing it, there is a slight metal-to-metal sound. When spinning the cylinder, there is a metal-to-metal sound.

I wouldn't disassemble it. I'd swab out the barrel & chambers with cleaner, and add a small drop of oil where the frame & crane meet as well as where the front of the cylinder and crane meet (it'll get in by capillary action). Also push the ejector rod and add a small drop of oil to the now-exposed portion of the ejector rod.

 

[powwowell]

I've learned a few things. 1) S&W does not include a schematic, nor a parts list with their revolvers. 2) All S&Ws are a lot alike on the inside. If I can take one model down then, I should be able to take all of them down. J frames are a little different, especially the main spring. 3) Grip choices are almost unlimited. A grip that will fit any round butt K frame will work with my 617. 4) Some L frame grips will work on K the frames. 5) When it comes to spring kits, S&Ws are like Rugers. Brownells, Midway and other places have the spring kits.

I have the impression that the different models may have a round , or square butt. I have seen some grips advertised for K frames that will fit a square butt. Sometimes grips are for a round butt. This leads to another question. Is there a rhyme, or reason, for this? Does S&W make Model 617s with both style butts? If so, why? If not then I need grips for a K frame with a round butt? Sorry for all the questions. You now know just how ignorant I am when it comes to S&W products.

 

[9mmepiphany]

You do have a lot of question...which isn't a bad thing...and you'll have to sort through the answers given.

Taken down can mean a lot of things. The revolver doesn't need more than having it's cylinder opened to clean it properly. Disassembly/detail stripping isn't required or even recommended to clean the gun. That is one of the reasons that S&W no longer includes a schematic with their pistols...it used to. A sign of improper handling of a revolver are distorted screwheads on the sideplate...I would not buy a used revolver without pristine sideplate attaching screws.

Over the last 40 years, the square butt frame was the standard for service/target revolvers, with the round butt reserved for smaller concealment guns (snubbies). Over time, due to demand and production savings, S&W has standardized on the roundbutt frame. The square butt feel can easily be obtained on a round butt gun, by a simple change in grips...making the round butt a more versatile offering.

While I'm a big fan of Hogue grips on revolvers, the Pachmayr Compac or Compac Pro grips are very nice. I have a set of Compact Pros on my S&W 696 which is my bedside gun

 

[MrBorland]

The grip situation can be confusing.

As 9mm indicated, there are square & round butt guns, and you can obviously buy square & round butt grips, respectively. But you can also buy what are known as conversion grips, which are grips designed to fit a round butt gun, but have the external dimensions & appearance of a square butt grip. I personally prefer these to true round bottom grips and seem to shoot better with them.

4) Some L frame grips will work on K the frames.

As long as the butt style's the same, all K- and L-frame grips are interchangeable. Go to that MidwayUSA link I posted, and you'll see the grips simply listed as K,L-frame grips.

Brownells, Midway and other places have the spring kits.

A word of caution here: Go too light with the spring, and you may find you get a lot of light-strikes. Particularly true with rimfires.

If this is your first revolver, and you want to lighten the trigger because it feels heavy, my suggestion is to shoot it for a while the way it is. Once you get used to the feel, it won't seem as heavy. In the meantime, your finger will strengthen, so the trigger will feel even less heavy.

If you're wanting to swap springs to "improve" the trigger, it's generally accepted that a smooth trigger is better than a light trigger. If it really needs trigger work, it's best to have a good 'smith do it. Again, though, 617s generally have a well-deserved reputation for accuracy, even when bone-stock.

Disassembly/detail stripping isn't required or even recommended to clean the gun. That is one of the reasons that S&W no longer includes a schematic with their pistols...it used to. A sign of improper handling of a revolver are distorted screwheads on the sideplate...I would not buy a used revolver without pristine sideplate attaching screws.

Very good advice here. If you have to take the sideplate off, 1) use the correct hollow-ground screwdriver bit and 2) do a little research beforehand - there's a right way and a very wrong way to do it.

 

[9mmepiphany]

...and be very careful with the trigger rebound assembly

 

[powwowell]

My thanks to MrBorland and 9mmepiphany. I will take your advice and leave the side plate alone. From looking at 617 schematics, posted at other places, I'm somewhat familiar with the internal workings. While this is my first S&W, I have owned Taurus and Rossi revolvers. From what I remember, it looks like they pretty much copied the S&W internals.

I'll visit some local shops and try out some other K frame grips.