S&w 617

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Ridgeway

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Pretty unfamiliar w/revolvers, having only ever fired two(dads S&W .357, don't know model, issue weapon many years ago & grandfathers old .38, anyways...).

Was thinking of picking up a .22 for some cheap shooting, and well I don't have a revolver so why not fill 2 gaps w/one gun(though I still have the itch for a usp9c, that may have to come before a .22), hence the 617(w/6 in. barrel) tops my list.
I checked s&w's website, and it doesn't address my q.

Is the 617 DAO, or sa/da?
I briefly used my grandfathers .38 snubby and hated it due to having the long/hard da trigger pull every time...as compared my my dads .357 which acted more like my autoloaders, allowing a easier/more controlled shot...


(hope I got that right, the whole sa/da/dao thing still confuses me @ times lol)
ty

edit to add:
S&W lists a couple model 617's on their site
one w/a 4 in. barrel & 2 w/6" barrels
what accounts for the big difference in capacity w/the latter 2? one holds 6, & the other holds 10? any reason to not to go with the 10 rd one?
 
Is the 617 DAO, or sa/da?

The 617 can be fired in the single action mode or double action mode.


S&W lists a couple model 617's on their site
one w/a 4 in. barrel & 2 w/6" barrels
what accounts for the big difference in capacity w/the latter 2? one holds 6, & the other holds 10? any reason to not to go with the 10 rd one?


From what I understand the trigger pull travel of the 10 rounder in DA is different than that of a traditional 6 shot revolver fired in the DA mode.
 
There are a number of reasons why I wouldn't buy the 10 round version none of which may apply to you.

I would want the 4" version
There have been reported problems with the 10 round versions going out of time, HOWEVER I have read posts by lots of people that have them that have had NO problem at all with theirs.
If I regularly carried a six shot centerfire revolver with a K-Frame, I would buy a 617 to provide cheap practice: I would want both revolvers to have the same capacity.

All that being said, I have a 617 with a six inch barrel and 6 shot cylinder. I bought it used, otherwise I would have gotten the 4" barrel (I already have two Model 17s with 6" barrels: a model 17 is a blued steel version that is basically the same as a model 617: it is no longer made).
 
i also have a m-17 6" blued steel six shooter and it is my second favorite .22lr wheelgun after my 4" colt diamondback.

i would also recomend that you get a 617 with the six round cylinder. the 10 rounder's trigger stroke just seems too short (not a good thing in a DA gun) for us old wheelgunners
 
I have an older 6" 617 with six-shot cylinder that I absolutely LOVE. It will eat any ammo I stuff into it, and it shoots like it knows where the bullets are supposed to go without my help. I've never shot the ten-shooter so can't comment, but youy won't be disappointed with the 6-shot version.
 
The 617 can be fired in the single action mode or double action mode.
I'll try to elaborate a little better here.
On the two revolers I've used each acted differently.
With the .38, I would have to manually draw back the hammer each shot to shoot sa, otherwise it was da.
On the .357, the first shot was da(unless I manually drew back the hammer), but after that first shot the hammer stayed back after each shot like a traditional autoloader.
Does the 617 act like either of those and if so which? I much prefered the second, as I don't care to have to cock the hammer every shot(why are some revolvers like this?)

thx for responses/help

I would want the 4" version
any reason? I know you said you already had something in a 6", but if you didn't? I was just thinking for accuracy's sake...
 
Every Smith revolver I have ever owned needs to be cocked to fire in the single action mode. They do not cock themselves after the shot has been fired like an auto pistol. Every DA revolver from Smith , Ruger , Colt or Dan Wesson that I have fired is the same way.

There was a self-cocking revolver that I saw on the History Channel once - cannot remember who made it but it was produced long ago.
 
Every Smith revolver I have ever owned needs to be cocked to fire in the single action mode. They do not cock themselves after the shot has been fired like an auto pistol. Every DA revolver from Smith , Ruger , Colt or Dan Wesson that I have fired is the same way.
really?
well I don't know what type of revolver it was that my dad had, but perhaps someone here has an idea...
it was the fbi issue weapon before they moved to the 1076, around the mid '80's
I havn't fired it in years, but I'm pretty sure I'm correct...
thx for info- did not know that...
 
I have the 4" 617, 10 shot. I find that the timing is actually better than a 6 shot because the clynder locks up half way through your trigger pull. With the 6 shot versions I have experienced "spitting", where the cylinder fails to lock up prior to shooting, what the others here are calling a "timing" issue....has never happened on my 10 shot.

Plus, its definately nice not having to reload for those 10 shots....only downside is you go through ammo a little faster and you cant find a speed loader for it.
 
the issue FBI gun before the m-1076 was a 3" m-13 .357mag

it is a normal/standard/stock/common wheelgun which fires in DA, for every shot, when you pull the trigger, unless you manully cock the hammer for a SA pull

the only self cocking wheelgun that comes to mind is the frosby (sp?)/webley pistol from WWII where the upper frame recoiled back and forth on the lower frame causing the cylinder to rotate due to a track cut into it's exterior.
 
it is a normal/standard/stock/common wheelgun which fires in DA, for every shot, when you pull the trigger, unless you manully cock the hammer for a SA pull
ic...well I must be remembering incorrectly then, thx for setting me straight then
 
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