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My experience: Get the reduced power kit with the reduced power mainspring. Go to the hardware store and get a couple of 8-32x.5 stainless set screws, these will run you all of 58 cents.
Install the 13lb rebound spring, install the reduced power mainspring, remove the strain screw, install the 8-32 set screw in its place. Leave the grips off, take the revolver to the range and dial in 100% reliable ignition for the ammo you use via the setscrew, dab on a little blue loctite to hold setting, you can do this prior to testing,replace grips. While you have the gun apart dab on a generous dollop of synthetic grease with moly on the hammer and trigger pivot points and put a big dab on the hammer/trigger double action interface, it will stay put and reduce friction.Enjoy a really good trigger.
The wolff mainsprings have a rib that requires a longer strain screw, this is why the setscrew is required.
The triggers come stupid heavy from the factory to account for dust, rust, and all types of ammo. The fix runs less than $12 bucks, you will thank me later.
Just one further minor addendum to this subject. I suspect that Smith does not offer trigger work on their .22 revolvers because there is a good amount of variance in both brands and lots of .22 ammunition in reference to primer sensitivity.
With the mods listed above you can easily get a much better than factory trigger and easily adjust it to 100% reliability, but what if you change brand or encounter softer or harder priming?
May I present the "jungle dial-a-hit mod", now you can run your trigger at the minimum and quickly and easily adjust through a tiny port in the front of the grips.
Legal says you must not use this mod in the bathtub and remove allen key prior to shooting.
Good shooting.
