S&W 625 older vs new

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kidneyboy

kidneyboy

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I'm shopping for a 625 and wondering if there are significant differences in models over the last 25 years or so. Leaning towards the JM but not opposed to getting an older model to save a few dollars.

FWIW, locks don't bother me, MIM parts don't bother me and I don't have a problem with S&W's quality control. I have a bunch of S&W revolvers, old and new, and have zero issues with any of them.
 
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They all seem to run. I have a model 1989 made in the early 1990's and I am it's third maybe forth owner. It has ~20k through it in my ownership, it's been great. I have friends with much newer 625's that also run great. S&W seems to have the 625 fairly well figured.
 
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I had an issue with the cylinder on my newer 625. One chamber consistent would bind on releasing the brass. S&W promptly replaced the cylinder and I have had no issue since. I have the JM but changed the grips, which I suppose rather defeats the point, but that's what I did.
 
Rodentman said:
I had an issue with the cylinder on my newer 625. One chamber consistent would bind on releasing the brass. S&W promptly replaced the cylinder and I have had no issue since. I have the JM but changed the grips, which I suppose rather defeats the point, but that's what I did.
Click to expand...
The previous owner of mine put the JM grip on the 625 I bought. Those grips hurt the joint at the base my of my strong hand's thumb. Shot one match with those and went back to my Hogue over molded.
 
I personally would avoid the newer guns because of the frame mounted firing pin (although I do find the IL offensive). I've owned several of them and to get reliable ignition of any primer the trigger pull is excessive. I currently have a 386 NG and a 325 PD. Both have DA triggers in the 10-12 pound range. Doable but much heavier than what's needed on the models with the firing pin on the trigger.

YMMV,
Dave
 
Dave T said:
I personally would avoid the newer guns because of the frame mounted firing pin (although I do find the IL offensive). I've owned several of them and to get reliable ignition of any primer the trigger pull is excessive. I currently have a 386 NG and a 325 PD. Both have DA triggers in the 10-12 pound range. Doable but much heavier than what's needed on the models with the firing pin on the trigger.

YMMV,
Dave
Click to expand...
What?
 
Frame mounted firing pins are much more robust than hammer mounted. They tolerate dry fire much better also. They are also much easier to repair if they do break.

I am not sure about the lighter trigger pull. I have always heard frame mounted firing pin revolvers can be tuned down more than hammer mounted without lost of ignition reliability.

I have four N-frames two of each firing pins. My best double action trigger is in my 625 with a frame mounted pin at 8lbs.
 
Frame mounted firing pins are just fine. The Python has always had one, as do most (if not all) Rugers. Surely there are better reasons.
 
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mcb said:
They all seem to run. I have a model 1989 made in the early 1990's and I am it's third maybe forth owner. It has ~20k through it in my ownership, it's been great. I have friends with much newer 625's that also run great. S&W seems to have the 625 fairly well figured.
Click to expand...

This seems to be the general consensus.
 
I'm not at all an expert. I have the 1988 model and it's super accurate and reliable. YMMV.
 
Dave T said:
I personally would avoid the newer guns because of the frame mounted firing pin (although I do find the IL offensive). I've owned several of them and to get reliable ignition of any primer the trigger pull is excessive. I currently have a 386 NG and a 325 PD. Both have DA triggers in the 10-12 pound range. Doable but much heavier than what's needed on the models with the firing pin on the trigger.

YMMV,
Dave
Click to expand...

I have a few with hammer firing pins and a bunch with frame mounted pins. I like to put in a firing pin that has a bit more range of motion, which prevents me from having ignition problems with .45 ACP loose rounds in the cylinder.
 
I have a 625-6 made in 1997. A friend just got a new 625 JM last fall. Other than mine having a 5 inch barrel, there really isnt much difference. Both are really nice shooting guns and I found the JM grips to be comfortable. Here is mine
4CB55AFF-C9F4-4816-84A2-E6BEF5372CE7.jpeg
 
If you are considering a 625 JM model, pay attention to the surface of the trigger. Jerry Miculek likes a grooved trigger, and all of the JM models that I have examined do have a grooved trigger. This is notable, because most double action shooters prefer a smooth trigger face.

If you are not well experienced at working on revolvers, swapping triggers is not trivial, so it may be preferable to buy a model with a trigger surface you like.
 
straightshooterjake said:
If you are considering a 625 JM model, pay attention to the surface of the trigger. Jerry Miculek likes a grooved trigger, and all of the JM models that I have examined do have a grooved trigger. This is notable, because most double action shooters prefer a smooth trigger face.

If you are not well experienced at working on revolvers, swapping triggers is not trivial, so it may be preferable to buy a model with a trigger surface you like.
Click to expand...

Jerry may like grooved triggers, but the ridges on mine were very sharp. I sanded down the grooved surface and it now works fine for me.
 
The old ones are complete garbage!


.... just kidding, I just don't need someone else bidding against me in my quest for a 5".

My 625JM is probably my wife's favorite gun with Arhends Combat stocks on it.
 
valnar said:
Whatcha got there holding those moon clips?
Click to expand...

North Mountain moonclip holder.

http://4wheelguns.com/Moon Clip Holder.html

I bought one from the original designer in person when I met him at the USPSA Area 8 match in 2007. I broke it in 2012 IIRC and he rebuilt it for $50 updating it to the latest version with the tek-lok belt loops. The posts are the only original parts left from that first one. Good guys to deal with.
 
Dave T said:
I personally would avoid the newer guns because of the frame mounted firing pin
Click to expand...
I would advise to go the other way.

The frame mounted firing pin is both more reliable, as to ignition, and is easier to tune for a lighter trigger pull...as it requires less energy to achieve the necessary travel to ignite the primer
 
9mmepiphany said:
I would advise to go the other way.

The frame mounted firing pin is both more reliable, as to ignition, and is easier to tune for a lighter trigger pull...as it requires less energy to achieve the necessary travel to ignite the primer
Click to expand...

I take all advice to avoid newer guns with a grain of salt.
 
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straightshooterjake said:
If you are considering a 625 JM model, pay attention to the surface of the trigger. Jerry Miculek likes a grooved trigger, and all of the JM models that I have examined do have a grooved trigger. This is notable, because most double action shooters prefer a smooth trigger face.

If you are not well experienced at working on revolvers, swapping triggers is not trivial, so it may be preferable to buy a model with a trigger surface you like.
Click to expand...

ClemY said:
Jerry may like grooved triggers, but the ridges on mine were very sharp. I sanded down the grooved surface and it now works fine for me.
Click to expand...

I totally sanded the grooves down in my 625JM trigger and then polished and buffed to a mirror finish. It works just fine for me!
 
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