10-Ring
Member
Like'em both, shoot well with both, price difference isn't an issue. That said, I can't decide on which to get...& I can't get both! :banghead:
S&W 66 or 686?
- Thread starter 10-Ring
- Start date
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What a dilema. On the one hand you can't go wrong either way. But how to choose ? I have both. I think if I could only have one I would go with the Model 66. The 686 is a good reliable handgun, but the 66 feels better in my hand. It seems to be the perfect size. Mine is a tackdriver, one of my better shooting stock handguns.
10-Ring
Member
I haven't put alot of rounds down range w/ the 66. How is the balance?
tomkatz
Member
I've got a 2.5 in. 66 and a 6 in. 686, if you plan to shoot alot of hot 357 get the 686, otherwise to me it is a tossup. I've shot 4 in. 66s and the balance is great for me, in fact I think that will be my next revolver purchase....tom
Ala Dan
Member in memoriam
Been There- And Done That!
I've owned 2.5" and 4" Smith & Wesson model 66's;
and one 4" model 686, when they first were put on
the market. Currently, I own and shoot a 6" Smith
& Wesson 686-5. I handload .38 Special and .357
magnum caliber's; so this makes for an ideal
"expermential" type .357, as it will handle "hotter"
.357 magnum fodder.
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
I've owned 2.5" and 4" Smith & Wesson model 66's;
and one 4" model 686, when they first were put on
the market. Currently, I own and shoot a 6" Smith
& Wesson 686-5. I handload .38 Special and .357
magnum caliber's; so this makes for an ideal
"expermential" type .357, as it will handle "hotter"
.357 magnum fodder.
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
Kahr carrier
Member
My vote 686 ,I like the bigger L frame.
The two principal questions that you must ask to resolve this dilemma are:
1.) How many full magnum rounds will I shoot in a typical year?
2.) Will I need to carry this gun concealed on occasion?
If you want the handier gun, the M66 is it, but it's true that the M686 will endure longer without repair when shot extensively with full loads.
Lone Star
P.S. Others will differ, but I think the six-inch bbl. is too bulky on the M66. If you want a six-incher, I believe I'd seek out a M27 or M28, unless the stainless issue is a major factor. The six-inch M66 (just discontinued) is a terrific outdoors revolver, giving six-inch velocity with reasonable weight. For general use, get either gun with the four-inch bbl.
If I could own only one handgun, it would be a four-inch bbl. M66.
1.) How many full magnum rounds will I shoot in a typical year?
2.) Will I need to carry this gun concealed on occasion?
If you want the handier gun, the M66 is it, but it's true that the M686 will endure longer without repair when shot extensively with full loads.
Lone Star
P.S. Others will differ, but I think the six-inch bbl. is too bulky on the M66. If you want a six-incher, I believe I'd seek out a M27 or M28, unless the stainless issue is a major factor. The six-inch M66 (just discontinued) is a terrific outdoors revolver, giving six-inch velocity with reasonable weight. For general use, get either gun with the four-inch bbl.
If I could own only one handgun, it would be a four-inch bbl. M66.
10-Ring
Member
Primary use will be as a target/ range gun & maybe for competition...IDPA
DeltaElite
Member
Get a 686+. You get a 7th round, that should help you with your decision.
ChristopherG
Member
Ummm... yes, given your uses, I agree a 686, but perhaps not the plus. I've got one, and I love it, and it's smooth and accurate as all get-out, but that seventh hole only gets in the way in IDPA. If it's just a play gun, a 6-shot 686 might make the most sense (and I have seen one shot, box-stock, to great effect in IDPA).
cg
cg
With a 4" barrel, I think the 19/66 is just about the best balanced revolver out there. I prefer it to the 686. If you shoot a lot of .357, the 686 will hold up better. Personally, I shoot 500 rounds of .38 for each round of .357, so there's no real point to the 686 for me. YMMV.
10-Ring
Member
Yeah, I'm thinking I won't be doing alot of magnum shooting...maybe the 66 is the way to go....
ACP
Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2002
- Messages
- 1,334
I've had both, and still own the 686. The weight savings in minimal, and I found (this is personal) the full lug points better for me. The stonger frame could help when hiking and carrying 180-gr. hard cast loads. I will admit the 66 is a bit 'livelier" in the hand. Try to find one with the pinned firing pin and round butt.
Both are very accurate. All 686s are tack drivers. West German border guards used to carry them, an instructor at S&W told me.
Both are very accurate. All 686s are tack drivers. West German border guards used to carry them, an instructor at S&W told me.
bountyhunter
member
I have two of each, you really NEED to get both. The 66 rides lower in the hand so there is less muzzle flip. I think they are the best wheelguns ever made. The "snipped off" forcing cone of the 66 means it will die earlier if fed a long diet of magnums.
Topgun
member
Son-in -law just got a 686 6"
I have the 66 6"
His is far heavier for me to feel right.
Most of my shooting is .38 WC.
The 66 is accurate. He hasn't shot his yet.
We TRIED to find a 66 and couldn't. Time limit before the new CA law.
The 686 ...FOUR INCH....feels OK.
But I don't like 4" .357's. The difference between the 4 and 6 is quite noticeable when shooting. 6" kicks less and hits far harder.
Also 6" is usually inherently more accurate. Minor degree, but there. And longer sighting radius is more forgiving.
I don't like heavy anymore.
I have the 66 6"
His is far heavier for me to feel right.
Most of my shooting is .38 WC.
The 66 is accurate. He hasn't shot his yet.
We TRIED to find a 66 and couldn't. Time limit before the new CA law.
The 686 ...FOUR INCH....feels OK.
But I don't like 4" .357's. The difference between the 4 and 6 is quite noticeable when shooting. 6" kicks less and hits far harder.
Also 6" is usually inherently more accurate. Minor degree, but there. And longer sighting radius is more forgiving.
I don't like heavy anymore.
labgrade
Member In Memoriam
Depends, & you get to choose.
I'm a personal fave of the 19/66-class.
Yes, the beafiers'll serve you longer/"better" all-told, but with a trade-off of "other things."
19/66s are a standard classic that you'll not get anywhere else.
& their "trade-off" is that you don't get to shoot the "hi-vels" so often & so much.
& how much do any of us actually do that?
I'll "beat up" my coupla 19/66s here 'n there, but save 'em for what they were always designed to do = a fairly perfect blend of a close to perfect DA revolver, to deliver a close to perfect bullet, at the close to perfect speed - always & reliably.
I'm a personal fave of the 19/66-class.
Yes, the beafiers'll serve you longer/"better" all-told, but with a trade-off of "other things."
19/66s are a standard classic that you'll not get anywhere else.
& their "trade-off" is that you don't get to shoot the "hi-vels" so often & so much.
& how much do any of us actually do that?
I'll "beat up" my coupla 19/66s here 'n there, but save 'em for what they were always designed to do = a fairly perfect blend of a close to perfect DA revolver, to deliver a close to perfect bullet, at the close to perfect speed - always & reliably.
Wildalaska
member
Ahhh 4 inch model 19 or Model 66...with presentation wood grips....green ramp insert....tuned action...target hammer/trigger....so smooth...so handy...yes, ah yes
WildinlovewiththemAlaska
WildinlovewiththemAlaska
Prodigalshooter
Member
I have the 66, use it in IDPA and shoot 130gr .38s out of it. Sweet is the best description I can think of. But for something to shoot .357 loads of any sort, with any regularity, I agree with the others above, that the 686 would be the better choice.
If I was a handgun hunter, I'd get the 686.
If I was a handgun hunter, I'd get the 686.
S&W 66 or 686
I have just bought a Ruger GP100, 4 in. adjustable site, full lug-- but have not had the opportunity to shoot it yet. I have not owned a revolver before, but find them very interesting. When I was looking at them I really liked many things about the S&W, but found the Ruger first. Now I have found a 66 with a 3 1/4 inch barrel, used, like new. I see many people feeel that the 66 or 686 is ideal in 4 in. What about 3 1/4 inch? This also has a highvis front site. Would this be a good gun to own or would I be better off with a 4 in. either 66 or 686. It will be for shooting paper and tin cans.
Thanks
I have just bought a Ruger GP100, 4 in. adjustable site, full lug-- but have not had the opportunity to shoot it yet. I have not owned a revolver before, but find them very interesting. When I was looking at them I really liked many things about the S&W, but found the Ruger first. Now I have found a 66 with a 3 1/4 inch barrel, used, like new. I see many people feeel that the 66 or 686 is ideal in 4 in. What about 3 1/4 inch? This also has a highvis front site. Would this be a good gun to own or would I be better off with a 4 in. either 66 or 686. It will be for shooting paper and tin cans.
Thanks
Michaelp, M1911 is 100% correct, a longer the barrel, generally the more accurate the firearm. That is if the device is in good condition. Sight radius has to do with the distance between the front and rear sights. The greater it is, the more fine tuning you can do with your aiming. Enjoiy... Dr.Who
chaim
Member
10-Ring,
I have a S&W65LS (3" Kframe with fixed sights) and a 6" 586. I love both. I had the 65 first.
If you are going to shoot a lot of magnums, especially the faster 110s and 125s the Lframe may be better (or a Ruger GP100 or Taurus 608). These guns can handle a steadier diet of powerful magnums without damage. The fast lighter weight bullets can also errode the cone on a kframe.
However, I find the feel and balance on a kframe is better. If you may carry you'll really see a difference. Even without carry you'll probably find the kframe to balance better at the range. Almost no one shoots more magnums than .38s out of their .357magnums and if you'll be shooting a lot of .38s out of it go ahead and get the kframe.
I actually like my 586 better but if I could keep only one it would be the 65.
michaelp,
I find that the 3" 65 handles very well and is plenty accurate. I don't think I lose than much v. a 4" with this gun (a 2" snub suffers from its shorter sight radius, I'm not as sure about the 3").
I have a S&W65LS (3" Kframe with fixed sights) and a 6" 586. I love both. I had the 65 first.
If you are going to shoot a lot of magnums, especially the faster 110s and 125s the Lframe may be better (or a Ruger GP100 or Taurus 608). These guns can handle a steadier diet of powerful magnums without damage. The fast lighter weight bullets can also errode the cone on a kframe.
However, I find the feel and balance on a kframe is better. If you may carry you'll really see a difference. Even without carry you'll probably find the kframe to balance better at the range. Almost no one shoots more magnums than .38s out of their .357magnums and if you'll be shooting a lot of .38s out of it go ahead and get the kframe.
I actually like my 586 better but if I could keep only one it would be the 65.
michaelp,
I find that the 3" 65 handles very well and is plenty accurate. I don't think I lose than much v. a 4" with this gun (a 2" snub suffers from its shorter sight radius, I'm not as sure about the 3").
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