S & W 686 Info??

[Dave1]

I am considering the purchase of a new stainless S & W Model 686 Plus, 7 shot, 4" barrel. Intend to carry it in a waist belt holster on some hunt trips and am slightly concerned about the loaded weight.

Just curious if there are any known quality control issues or reasons to be concerned with these revolvers?

What is an average selling price of this gun in today's market?

Thanks, Dave1
[email protected]

 

[Croyance]

Price depends on market. I have heard of them in the mid-$300's. I have seen them at $425.
If you can give the number after the "-", people can help with the other part.

 

[asknight]

The 686+ is new, and I'm not sure there will be any different "-" numbers on the 7 shot models. They tend to go for $550 and up around these parts.

<personal opinion alert>
I tend to dislike the 7 shots as it has an "unnatural" double action feel due to the shorter distance between cylinders. The cylinder just seems abnormally huge to me. They have internal locks. That's three strikes against it, for me.

Though unconfirmed so far, some reputable sources have said that the 7 shooters are more sensitive to timing issues, which we all know is very important on a revolver. That's potentially a very serious fourth strike against it.

That said, I love my 686 no-dash 6 shooter.

 

[Croyance]

The 686+ came out before internal locks, didn't it?

 

[scotty]

I have a 6" 686-5 plus. It has no key lock. I've been very happy with it, very accurate and reliable. I believe the -6 introduced the key lock.

 

[Surefire]

I have a 686-4 Plus which I LOVE. The "-4" revision is the last number that I like...the newer Smiths I am not as fond of.

 

[Stainz]

Pardon me while I stir the 'puddin'. The seven shot 686+ began with the -4 in 1995. The OD of the cylinder is the same, as the frame's opening is the same. The spacing of the chambers is closer, of course, but recall that the S&W frames & cylinders were forged and heat treated, rather than cast as some others. Additionally, the 60 degree vs 72 degree rotation per trigger squeeze requires a slightly different hand - and has a different feel, however slight. Remember that the cylinder has an addiotional 'hole' detracting from it's mass, so the shorter hand's loss of mechanical advantage won't be as noticeable. They 'break in' to a great trigger. As I like the 66's look, I jumped on a similar 5" half lug 686+ stocking dealer exclusive in '04. The full lug normal 686/686+ didn't look good to me. I like partial lugs! Side by side, my 6" 66 and 5" h-l 686+ do look very similar - even down to now wearing the same stocks (Ahrends) and front sights (HiViz). If I am shooting a 5-plate 'steel plate challenge', that seven rounds is good insurance (The shoot-offs have a sixth stop shot... nice to have an 'extra' round!).

New 4" 686/686+ run $519-$539 locally, while the 66's replacement, the new 4" 620, is $489. It is the same L-frame as the 686+ - with the same 7-shot cylinder - and the 66's nice half-lug barrel, albeit the modern enhanced two piece style. When I get ready for a 4", that'll be it - it can even 'share' my 686+'s HKS 587 speedloaders. I started buying S&W new in '02, so most of mine have 'The Lock' and MIM parts, neither of which have been a problem here. In fact, my troublesome S&W's were all older models, now, thankfully, gone, their 'value' used to buy new current ones. YMMV.

Stainz

PS This is post #619 for me... the 619 is a fixed sight holster version of the 620 - a 65 replacement, actually.

 

[Dave1]

Thanks for all of the replies. That was allot of good information.

My shooting is strictly single action, one shot at a time, so I am not concerned with the cylinder rotation change however slight due to the seven shot configuration. I favor a nice crisp single action trigger pull that will result in a controlled and accurate shot placement. Can't remember when I fired off a double action shot or barrage.

If there is any issue or problem with timing in the new seven shot versions I would not be oposed to the six shot gun just to avoid the possible problem or doubt.

I called around here locally and the best price I found on the seven shot 686 4" was $560. Not sure of the six shot would be cheaper or not.

Dave

 

[Stainz]

The seven shooter won't be a problem at all, as the lockwork is identical. All N, K, & L frames share that same lockwork, save the hand as previously mentioned. They all will have the same brisk and dependable SA break. You may still want to consider the new (1/05) 620 - it is a 4" 7-shooter with the traditional looking half lug under the barrel, a la the 66. Again, locally it is ~ $50 less than the 686+ - for essentially the same revolver. As stated, all K & L frames will interchange their grips, and the 620 comes with the same Hogue grips as the 686's. Keep us apprised of your choice - and a belated welcome to the forum!

Stainz

 

[Rangie]

If your not married to the idea of a stainless steel gun check out the 520. It's the same as the 620 but blued(sort of ) with a lightweight titanium cylinder. It feels a lot like the old K-magnum guns.

 

[Dave1]

I hunt wild hogs with some good Cur dogs frequently, catch most alive. These hunts take me far back into some wet nasty places where I/we would not normally go. I am frequently knee - pocket deep in swamp mud/water, wrapped/tied up in thorn vines, and such. This type of rough wet Florida wilderness environment is tough on me and my gear. Considering all, I believe the stainless gun is the best choice.

I will look at the full and half lug barrel versions and see what appeals to me. I am mostly concerned with the quality issues and was/am not sure about the newer seven shot version of the 686. I usually avoid anything new for a while until I am confident they have any/all bugs worked out of them. If there is any doubt or issues with the seven shot version, I could/would be very happy with the traditional six shot version.

Thanks for the welcome. I am always amazed at the limitless amounts of information and experience available on the internet and the forums. Thanks to all the forum brothers and sisters.

Dave1

 

[Dave1]

What is the "Internal Lock" thing I have seen mentioned in these forums? Is this something new in the S&W handguns? In the 686?

Dave1

 

[Croyance]

The internal lock is an intergral trigger lock that is on all new S&W revolvers. I'm sure it is on the new semi-autos too.
The lock is right above the cylinder release latch. Some don't like it and there are stories of it switching to 'locked' position on its own. Others say that is BS.
It is lawyer proofing. Since Taurus and Springfield have this 'feature', S&W wants to avoid a possible lawsuit from relatives of somebody stupid enough to not store their gun properly.

It is a very new feature, since late last year. I'm sure some distributors and shops have new guns without this. Since I prefer older Smiths, it is a non-issue for me.

 

[Dave1]

I do not like new unnesscessary gadgets such as the trigger lock described. When I go "shopping", I will try to find one without the new lock but if I can't find one, I may have to live with it.

Dave1

 

[SwampWolf]

As others have noted, there is no difference in the diameter of the cylinders between the 686 and the 686+. Both have the internal lock feature and, if there's a difference between the two in terms of the feel/weight of the DA pull it is a slight one and , if there is a preference, it is one of individual taste. If there is a timing issue associated with the Plus series, I'd like to see the evidence and documentation of same. I know of none.

The bottom line for me is that there are no disadvantages to having an extra shot and, of course, the advantage of the Plus over the "nonPlus" is that you have an extra shot!

 

[Dave1]

I found a NIB Model 686 6 shot gun for $499 in Georgia, a few hours drive from my Fla home, but they cannot sell to an out of state resident. I am guessing that 6 shot gun is one of the older models.??

Best price I have found locally for a NIB 7 shot gun is $560.

Dave1

 

[Stainz]

Don't forget the relatively new 620 - it'll have that same frame, 7-shot cylinder, and grip - just a partial lug under the barrel. It should be ~$50 or more less, too. If you like the full lug look, go with the 686+. Go to S&W's site to see these guns... they are better in person, of course.

Stainz

 

[Janitor]

I am guessing that 6 shot gun is one of the older models.

Nope - they still make both the 686 & the 686+.

 

[xring44]

Before you buy, let me check with a friend who has a 686+ 7 shot without the lock, shot little and in perfect condition. He's wanting a 8 3/8" in the same thing to shoot sihoulettes. Just what your looking for.

 

[pcf]

686P-4 No lock, hammer mounted firing pin
686P-5 No Lock, Frame mounted Firing pin
686P-6 Lock, Frame mounted firing pin

The only parts that are different between a 686P-X and 686-X are the cylinder, hand, and ejector star. If anything the 686P is stronger than the 686 due to the placement of the cylinder stop notch. The notch is between charge holes are the 686P instead of on top of it like the 686.

Eventually all revolvers will go out of time, fast double action shooting will speed up the process. Shooting single action it could take eons. Between the 686P and 686 I don't think one will go out of time any faster than the other.

 

[Dave1]

As this thread goes along I am learning more and more about these guns, their design, and changes.

Ok, what is and why the difference of hammer mounted firing pin and frame firing pin?? Any advantage, disadvantage, or prefference of one over the other?

Dave

 

[BT100]

More puddin for you all to stir.

I just liked that line about stirring the puddin

The current dealer price on a 686 Plus Distinguished Combat Magnum S&W Item # 164194 is $492.50 without any S/I or markup. If you can find one close to that price you'd better snatch it up.

BT

 

[Croyance]

My preference is for a hammer mounted firing pin, because it is the classic look. I do seem to gravitate toward older (for me) Smiths.

I don't know about the S&W specifically, but a frame mounted firing pin allows for a trigger safety. Extra moving parts can affect quality of trigger pulls.

 

[Dave1]

This weekend I went window shopping and looking at the new S&W handguns. The shop I visited had most of the new S&W revolver models and a few new but older ones. The 686 with the full lug definitely had the best feel for me. Price for a new 686 6 or 7 shot version was $560.

While looking at numerous new S&Ws I noticed one that had some pitting in the steel above/behind the cylinder. It appeared to have been made that way. I am surprised they let that one get out of the factory. Also noticed the guns had been fired. The shop operator said all S&W guns are test fired but it was obvious they didn't clean any of them after the test firing. Seemed odd they would ship a "dirty gun.

Noticed in the latest issue of Georgia Outdoor News there was a S&W show up there last weekend at one of their dealers and they advertised new 686's for $530.

Dave1