S&W factory nickel finish

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J-Bar

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I have never owned a nickel plated revolver. I have a line on one that appears intriguing.

Please educate me on the care and feeding of a nickel finish.

As always, thanks for your knowledge, time and trouble.
 
FWIW ...

A while back I purchased a vintage nickel'd 6" .38spc S&W Model 1905 Hand-Ejector (4th Change, mfd early 1920s).

As I received it, it wasn't much to look at (the reaction of most folks, I think) but relatively little of the nickel was missing/damaged. After I completed my detail-strip/inspection/repair/re-assembly work, I was looking at it wondering how best to proceed.

Then I remembered that long ago I had purchased a tin of Never-Dull magic wadding polish. I dug out the tin, removed a bit of the wadding and wiped the revolver down ... WOW! That nickel finish really POPPED!

If I was going to attend an upscale BBQ in Texas, that is the revolver that I would have on my hip. :)
 
JBar

My one and only nickel plated gun, a Colt Combat Commander, has been going strong with its finish now for over 40 years. In all that time I have made it a point to never use anything like Hoppe's No. 9 on it as I'm concerned that the copper solvent might get to the base copper plating under the nickel plating. I use WD40 and CLP to clean the gun after shooting it and then Flitz to remove any tarnish or leftover dirt and grime. Flitz also does a great job of giving the bright nickel a nice shine and leaving behind a layer of protection to help preserve that shiny look.
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JBar

My one and only nickel plated gun, a Colt Combat Commander, has been going strong with its finish now for over 40 years. In all that time I have made it a point to never use anything like Hoppe's No. 9 on it as I'm concerned that the copper solvent might get to the base copper plating under the nickel plating. I use WD40 and CLP to clean the gun after shooting it and then Flitz to remove any tarnish or leftover dirt and grime. Flitz also does a great job of giving the bright nickel a nice shine and leaving behind a layer of protection to help preserve that shiny look.
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Bannockburn, that Colt is breathtaking!

Thank you.
 
I’m inspecting one at that same table. I talked to the man at the last show and he showed me one from under his table. I’m going to be buying it next weekend. It is nickel also. Spotless.
 
If you like Smiths him and Bob White on the east side have the best stuff there usually.
 
Howdy

Smith and Wesson has been nickel plating guns since 1857. They actually finished more of their small Top Breaks with nickel plating than they did with blue. The little Number One, 5th Type at the top of this photo shipped in 1859. The silver plating has almost all worn off the brass frame. The other two, the Number One 2nd and 3rd Issues, are both nickel plated.

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38 Single Action (Baby Russian) that shipped in 1876

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32 Single Action that shipped in 1889.

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38 Military and Police, Model of 1899 that shipped in 1899.

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32 Safety Hammerless that shipped in 1905.

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38 Double Action Perfected that shipped in 1917.

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Triple Lock that shipped in 1915.

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My favorite nickel plated Smith, a New Model Number Three that shipped in 1882 and was refinished at the factory in 1965.

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I have a few other nickel plated Smiths lurking somewhere, but those are most of them.



But I got off track. Nickel does not adhere well to steel. Copper does. So before a steel revolver is plated with nickel it is first plated with copper. Then the nickel plating will form a good bond to the copper. The problem with Hoppe's #9 is the ammonia in it can attack the copper underneath the nickel. Particularly if there are any chips or scratches in the nickel, allowing the ammonia access to the copper. Here is the caution on the back of a bottle of Hoppe's #9. Notice it does not say not to use it on nickel plated firearms, it says not to soak them in it and to wipe the nickel dry after cleaning.

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I clean nickel using a rag I’ve sprayed silicon on. Seems to work fine. The bore and cylinders I clean with Birchwood Casey bore cleaner (clear).

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The 4" Model 25-5 is the only factory nickel S&W revolver that I have. I've heeded the advice to refraining from cleaning the gun with Hoppe's #9. I mostly clean my guns with Ed's Red home brewed gun cleaner these days anyway.

I've not experienced any problems so far.
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I have never owned a nickel plated revolver. I have a line on one that appears intriguing.

Please educate me on the care and feeding of a nickel finish.

As always, thanks for your knowledge, time and trouble.

Watch for flaking.

Note that ultra sonic cleaners can be their demise if there is flaking or any separation in general.

Do not use standard brushed stainless procedures or materials in case of scratching or delamination.

Test harsh cleaners on inside of grip frame.

A penny with the edge old & worn is usually an unaggressive scraper if one is needed.

Microcrystaline waxes like Renaissance are great at filling micro-scratches and imperfections.

I know others will come to me and I'll add them to a new post if they do.

Todd.
 
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