S&W frame type etc.

[Mr Bernoulli]

Hey I was wondering something guys... I am new to revolvers and from what I have read and picked up is that J frames are small framed, K frames are medium frames, L frames are medium almost large frames better suited for magnum ammunition, then N frames that are large frames, and the X frame which is for like model 500. Is this all correct?

Also I have picked up that any 3 digit model number that begins with a 3 is an alloy, beginning with a 5 it is carbon steel, and beginning with a 6 it is stainless correct?

One more thing can someone explain to me why the models are called what they are. I get this partially but need it clarified. I know the thing as stated above but what are the other digits for? Does this help place them in their frame type.

Can't wait for these answers! Thanks in advance!

 

[ugaarguy]

Hey I was wondering something guys... I am new to revolvers and from what I have read and picked up is that J frames are small framed, K frames are medium frames, L frames are medium almost large frames better suited for magnum ammunition, then N frames that are large frames, and the X frame which is for like model 500. Is this all correct?

You're pretty much on it. The L frame isn't that big though. It's basically a beefed up K frame that's just a bit taller so the bottom edge of the barrel inside the cylinder window doesn't have be ground flat to clear the cylinder crane. Thus the forcing cone is fully supported. The size difference is so small that almost any holster made for one will fit the other of the same / similar bbl length. The rule of thumb is that if you plan to fire 140 grain or lighter slugs at full .357 Mag velocity/pressure you need an L frame, because you're very likely to crack the forcing cone a K Magnum. I like the old standby 158 grain load, so I'm fine with a K frame. However, the 125 grain JHP is a very popular .357 Magnum round.

Also I have picked up that any 3 digit model number that begins with a 3 is an alloy, beginning with a 5 it is carbon steel, and beginning with a 6 it is stainless correct?

Very close; a three digit model number starting with 3 almost always denotes Scandium frame. The 3/5/6 rule is true across all L frames best I can remember. N frames generally stick with the original two digit numbers for blued, 6xx for stainless, and 3xx for scandium.

J frames get weird. For example The 642 is a silver finish aluminum & stainless steel 38 J frame. The 442 is same gun in black finish aluminum & carbon steel. The 340 is the same gun in a scandium frame, 357 Mag, with both silver and black finish variations. The 640 is the same gun in stainless steel, chambered either in 38 or 357 depending on age. The parent gun of them all, the model 40 is blued steel and only ever offered in 38 special. The 42 is the early blued/blackened aluminum frame version.

Another example - The 36 and 60 are the same gun in blued and stainless respectively. The 36 was only offered in 38 special to my knowledge, but recent model 60s are available in .357 Mag. The 37 is the black/blue aluminum version of the 36, but the 637 is a stainless / silver aluminum version of the same. Then the 360 is the scandium .357 version, offered in both silver & black finishes.

Confused yet?

 

[Mr Bernoulli]

Is there any physical way to tell the frames apart?

 

[Dain Bramage]

This site will help with the model numbers.

S&W Model Changes

 

[cpirtle]

Is there any physical way to tell the frames apart?

The only one that should be hard to tell apart quickly is the K and L, the other frames are pretty obvious in their size differences.

So when it comes to K's & L's just look at the forcing cone, if it is ground flat on the bottom it's a K frame.

 

[Mr Bernoulli]

these last two tips are really handy thanks guys. By the way that site is awesome!