S&W Hammerless Safety firing pin

[bowline]

Adopted a nice S&W Lemon Squeezer today - not sure which model, the front blade is fixed, SN is 1872XX, it is a 32. Nickel, with pearl grips with the S&W medallion. Nickel is lightly freckled, grips are perfect, seems to function smoothly.
Durn firing pin is broke, I think. Tried dry firing with my finger over the firing pin hole and can't feel anything.
Need any info helpful to getting this thing back in working order, as my wife wants it for a secondary carry piece. It really is in nice shape otherwise.
Numrich has a firing pin listed, but they're out of stock. While I'm about it, is there anything else I need to replace? Springs or whatnot?

 

[Old Fuff]

I'm pressed for time, but I bookmarked the thread and will get back to you with some answers.

 

[Jim K]

Those guns have a frame mounted firing pin, held in by a bushing, which in turn is held in by a cross-pin through the frame (the same system used until recently on the K-22).

To replace the firing pin, first remove the grips, and remove the barrel assembly from the frame. Then relieve the mainspring strain screw (lower part of the front of the grip). Now take off the sideplate by tapping the frame with a piece of wood so it falls out, and remove the mainspring and hammer. Using a cup type punch to avoid slipping, drive out the bushing retainer pin left to right.

Insert a punch into the front of the firing pin hole, and drive the firing pin and bushing backward. Install the new firing pin (and I recommend a new spring), then reinstall the bushing and bushing pin. Reinstall the hammer and mainspring, then the sideplate. Tighten the strain screw. Replace the grips. Reinstall the barrel assembly.

If GPC is out of stock, I don't know of another source, though those pins are easily made (I have made a lot of them); they have to be made of drill rod and hardened.

Jim

 

[bowline]

Thanks, Jim! Great info. Will be buying punches today, and using a friends' lathe to turn them down to correct diameter.
Drill rod? Would corrosion resistant stainless do the trick?
Non-machinist here, but I'm about to give it a go. Gun Parts is out, Jack First gun parts has 'em (well, new mfr repros), but they are a little proud of them.
Thanks for the info!

 

[Old Fuff]

Nope! Jim is almost right, but the firing pin bushing has to be driven forward, not backwards to remove it; and the hammer won't come out until some other parts are removed. In addition, you can't get the firing pin and bushing out until the hammer is removed. Disassembling the lockwork in a S&W Safety Hammerless is a tricky (meaning frustrating) job and requires special cup-pointed pin punches, as well as screwdrivers that have tips correctly ground to fit particular screws. (both are available at www.brownells).

This is a job that should be done by a gunsmith that is experienced and knowledgeable at working on these particular revolvers, and while there may be more, I only know of one:

David R. Chicoine, who I believe is located in North Carolina.

I'll try to find a current address. Try this link:

David Chicoine, www.oldwestgunsmith.com, for restoration/gunsmithing services.

 

[bowline]

Thanks, Old Fuff, and Jim too. Bought punches at the local china-mart, turned one down on a buddys' lathe, put a ball mill in the center rest and 'cupped' the face.
Didn't have to remove the hammer, just the main spring. Bushing came out forward with a few gentle taps, and sure enough, the firing pin is snapped off. The remaining portion is about .31 inches long overall, with about a tenth of an inch remaining of the stub above the shoulder.
Couldn't find drill rod, but I bought some verrrry long drill bits, and will attempt turning one out of one of these.
Would anyone be able to give me an overall length for an unbroken pin?

Thanks again
Bowline
Soon-to-be author of "Hotel Gunsmithing"

 

[Old Fuff]

bowline:

You were born under a lucky star. Usually those firing pin bushings are press fitted and to get out.

I measured a firing pin at .510" -.005" overall length.

When the hammer is rebounded be sure the point of the firing pin is pulled back into the breech face so that it can't touch the primer. This is the only hammer block safety it has. As Jim said, replace the firing pin spring.

 

[bowline]

Beautimous. Should be a breeze from here, if I have the right material to turn the new one. You're right, I can't claim skill, it must be luck - but I'll take it where I find it
Wouldn't have gotten anywhere without you guys helping! Thanks again

 

[Old Fuff]

While they are neat little revolvers, they do have a reputation for breaking firing pins if there isn't something in the chambers, such as fired cartridge cases or snap-caps when dry firing - although I don't believe they make them for .32 S&W.