Hey everyone, I just bought a M10-7 2" RB today for $239.95 in Sacramento, which seemed like an ok price. I did have some questions about this, however, since it's not only my first S&W, but my first 'older' gun. First of all, what does the -7 designate? I know the numbers after the dashes are design changes, but what exactly makes a -7 a -7? I THINK I've read somewhere that it places the date of manufacture around 1980? Also, is this a gun with the old lockwork or new? Also, does it have a frame mounted firing pin or hammer mounted? (I know I should've looked, but I didn't...) Is it safe to dry-fire? (I was dry firing quite a bit at the shop, and the owners told me it was alright to do so, so I assume they've let other people do it as well). Also, is it safe to shoot +P loads in it? I think I've read that the metullurgy had changed since the late 50's, so anything after that was alright, but I just wanted to be sure. The bluing was pretty worn at the muzzle, so I assume it's from holster wear? Any way to get it reblued as nice as it was from the factory? Lockup seemed tight all over, and although I wasn't able to measure the barrel/cylinder gap with feeler gauges, it seemed pretty small. The bore had some scratches, but no pitting...is this ok? Lastly, as for cleaning the gun, I only planned to take a brush w/ solvent and scrub the cylinder chambers and the bore, and wipe the thing down with a patch w/ solvent. Is this sufficient? Is there any need to actually take the thing apart ever to clean? Please let me know, thank you all in advance.
S&w M10-7 2"
- Thread starter kyoung05
- Start date
- Status
Stainz
Member
The -7 variant apparently dates from 77-81 when the -8 variant first appearred. Yours has a hammer mounted firing pin. As to the lockwork, it was changed last in '98 with the -11 version. Now... for +P use, call S&W's Customer Service @ 800 331 0852 and give them the serial number - they can tell you for sure.
I have a 1/03 produced -11 in 2" that is a real keeper. I have started carrying Federal R38S12 158gr LHPSWC .38 Special +P, the so-called 'FBI snubbie load', in mine. I plink with 158gr LSWC & LRN rounds - lots of fun - even at distance (I can hit a 12" plate at 110yd, once I find the drop!). It has an easy to clean barrel... a Lewis Lead Remover works fine. Your scratches may be from a steel cleaning rod - or steel central wired bronze brush. I would clean the revolver carefully with Hoppes #9 and cotton swipes. You can easily remove the cylinder and yoke for cleaning by removing the front most screw (just forward and above the trigger on the right side) - with the appropriate size/style screwdriver, of course.
My new 2" 10 had a perfect blueing job... S&W still knows how to do it. I'd ask them if you really want it re-blued... I'd probably just 'enjoy' it with it's 'character' - at least for a bit.
Stainz
I have a 1/03 produced -11 in 2" that is a real keeper. I have started carrying Federal R38S12 158gr LHPSWC .38 Special +P, the so-called 'FBI snubbie load', in mine. I plink with 158gr LSWC & LRN rounds - lots of fun - even at distance (I can hit a 12" plate at 110yd, once I find the drop!). It has an easy to clean barrel... a Lewis Lead Remover works fine. Your scratches may be from a steel cleaning rod - or steel central wired bronze brush. I would clean the revolver carefully with Hoppes #9 and cotton swipes. You can easily remove the cylinder and yoke for cleaning by removing the front most screw (just forward and above the trigger on the right side) - with the appropriate size/style screwdriver, of course.
My new 2" 10 had a perfect blueing job... S&W still knows how to do it. I'd ask them if you really want it re-blued... I'd probably just 'enjoy' it with it's 'character' - at least for a bit.
Stainz
Stainz,
Thanks for the info! As for the scratches in the barrel, would they affect accuracy at all? I never use steel in any of my guns, and I don't plan to start, so that won't be an issue. As for a lead remover, what is it exactly? I've always just used hoppes to clean the bores/cylinders before. Is it a paste? Or a liquid solvent? Thanks again!
Thanks for the info! As for the scratches in the barrel, would they affect accuracy at all? I never use steel in any of my guns, and I don't plan to start, so that won't be an issue. As for a lead remover, what is it exactly? I've always just used hoppes to clean the bores/cylinders before. Is it a paste? Or a liquid solvent? Thanks again!
BluesBear
member
Brownell's now makes the Lewis Lead Remover
If you shoot a lot of lead bullets it's the best $20 you'll ever spend.
If you shoot a lot of lead bullets it's the best $20 you'll ever spend.
gunfan
Member
Were it MY revolver...
I would not hesitate for a moment, to use "+P" ammunition in your 2" barreled S&W Model 10-7. It is built to take the hotter loads.
If I were carrying it for personal defense, a good bet would be Federal's 158-grain LSWCHP. If you have adjustable sights, regulate them to use this load and pack it with confidence!
Scott
I would not hesitate for a moment, to use "+P" ammunition in your 2" barreled S&W Model 10-7. It is built to take the hotter loads.
If I were carrying it for personal defense, a good bet would be Federal's 158-grain LSWCHP. If you have adjustable sights, regulate them to use this load and pack it with confidence!
Scott
Great, so it seems the issue on +p ammo has been resolved by the members who have posted. As for the Lewis Lead Remover, how does it work? I looked at those little disc things, and that rod, and I assume you push the rod thing down the bore like a cleaning rod, but how does it work any better? Also, for the J&B bore paste, I've heard that this polish takes a little of the bore down with each use, so that I should use it sparingly, if at all. Is this different with lead buildup? Also, I've shot lead in other guns (230gr LRN in 1911, .357 lead JSP, etc) and didn't notice them being markedly dirtier than when I shoot FMJ bullets. Is it because I didn't really shoot enough (50-100rds) to notice? As for dry-firing, is it going to hurt it any? Lastly, the wooden grips on mine are pretty beat up and don't have any finish left on them. How would I go about re-finishing these on my own? I figured I would give them a light sanding and just put a coat of oil or something on them, but wouldn't sanding wear down the checkering? Let me know guys, and thanks again!
This is my 10-7 round-butt. I bought it about a year and a half ago, with its box and apparently very few rounds through it, for $275. I smoothed up the action a bit and it's a great carry revolver. I have put a fair amount of +P ammo through it with no evidence of any problem. Enjoy yours.
Ron
Ron
- Status