I had a lite strike on my M10 at the range yesterday and decided to replace the 30 year old mainspring with a Wolff Ribbed mainspring. Can this be done without removing the sideplate? If so I am having one hell of a time doing so! Any tips are appreciated.
S&W Mainspring Replacement
- Thread starter Tom B
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4thHorseman
Member
It is easy on a S&W. Yes the side plate has to be removed.
First, remove the grips.
Second, remove the screws that hold the side plate on. Remove the side plate. (some people say it can be tapped and the plate will dropped off. It never worked for me. I have used the handle end of a toothbrush and gently pry the side plate off. Place the tooth brush end between the the side plates and pryby working it back and forth for a while and it will loosen up for you.)
Third, loosen the screw at front of the base of the grip that applies pressure to the spring.
Fourth, remove the spring.
Assemble, in reverse order.
Don't use a screw driver to pry, you'll damage the finish and leave a gouge. Again, only use the toothbrush end to lossen, not to entirely remove. The side plate has a little lip closest to the barrel side. It has to come out last.
Very easy.
First, remove the grips.
Second, remove the screws that hold the side plate on. Remove the side plate. (some people say it can be tapped and the plate will dropped off. It never worked for me. I have used the handle end of a toothbrush and gently pry the side plate off. Place the tooth brush end between the the side plates and pryby working it back and forth for a while and it will loosen up for you.)
Third, loosen the screw at front of the base of the grip that applies pressure to the spring.
Fourth, remove the spring.
Assemble, in reverse order.
Don't use a screw driver to pry, you'll damage the finish and leave a gouge. Again, only use the toothbrush end to lossen, not to entirely remove. The side plate has a little lip closest to the barrel side. It has to come out last.
Very easy.
Just thought I'd let you know I tried the Wolff Ribbed mainspring in my 19 and was not really impressed with it. It claims to utterly eliminate stacking and uneven pulls yet I frankly found it to be worse than the stock spring on each of these fronts, YMMV.
BTW I did order a set of Wolff rebound springs in various weights from Brownells and after some experimenting was very happy with the results in all my revolvers.
BTW I did order a set of Wolff rebound springs in various weights from Brownells and after some experimenting was very happy with the results in all my revolvers.
MoNsTeR
Member
You do not have to remove the sideplate the replace the mainspring.
V
VictorLouis
Guest
You have to be awfully talented
to change out a mainspring without removing the sideplate. Those little tiny hooks at the top have to slip up and under the little arms of the stirrup dangling from the rear of the hammer.
to change out a mainspring without removing the sideplate. Those little tiny hooks at the top have to slip up and under the little arms of the stirrup dangling from the rear of the hammer.
Mike Irwin
Member
I frequently remove/change the mainspring in my revolvers without removing the side plate.
It's an acquired skill, not unlike reassmebling a Ruger semi-auto .22.
It's an acquired skill, not unlike reassmebling a Ruger semi-auto .22.
I agree with Mete. The S&W sideplate is easily removed by gently tapping the part of the frame that is normally covered by the grips. Use a piece of wood or a plastic hammer, and it will pop off.
Also a word on replacement mainsprings. I once had an almost new Trapper mainspring snap in half when the gun was cocked. I've never trusted replacement springs since.
Also a word on replacement mainsprings. I once had an almost new Trapper mainspring snap in half when the gun was cocked. I've never trusted replacement springs since.
Mike Irwin
Member
Hold the revolver side plate UP. That way you can keep your thumb over it, which keeps it from chattering up and down.
NEVER EVER pry the side plate off.
NEVER EVER pry the side plate off.
V
VictorLouis
Guest
I'm 'Like Mike' when it comes to the sideplate.
Inverting the plate will allow it to swing down pretty far with the upper locking tab acting as almost like a door hinge. This can, and probably will, cause a minor burr on the edge which is only slightly less notable than the one you get from prying.
Plate up, tap-tap-tap until free, then lift it just enough to clear the edge of the frame and pull it up and back toward you.
Inverting the plate will allow it to swing down pretty far with the upper locking tab acting as almost like a door hinge. This can, and probably will, cause a minor burr on the edge which is only slightly less notable than the one you get from prying.
Plate up, tap-tap-tap until free, then lift it just enough to clear the edge of the frame and pull it up and back toward you.
JPM70535
Member
Never pry on the side plate, Remove the side plate screws, and holding the plate side up, tap on the grip frame with a wooden or plastic mallet. tap moderately hard and the side plate will ease its way up so you can remove it. The mainspring can easily be removed once the plate is off.
Replacing the side plate is straight forward, but a word of advice. Some of the S&W revplvers I have taken apart were so finely fitted that the only way the plate would easily go back into place was to cool the side plate down in the freezerand warm the revolver up in the oven (150degrees) the combination of expansion of the frame and contraction of the side plate made just enough difference to allow reassembly.
I have never encountered this problem on any Smith revolver made in the last 20 years however, for what its worth.
Replacing the side plate is straight forward, but a word of advice. Some of the S&W revplvers I have taken apart were so finely fitted that the only way the plate would easily go back into place was to cool the side plate down in the freezerand warm the revolver up in the oven (150degrees) the combination of expansion of the frame and contraction of the side plate made just enough difference to allow reassembly.
I have never encountered this problem on any Smith revolver made in the last 20 years however, for what its worth.
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