S&W mod 10 help - remove cylinder

[Lovesbeer99]

So I have an endshake problem and I bought some power custom bushings from Brownells. I managed to get the yoke out, but the instructions state that I need to unscrew the ejector to get the cylinder free?

So how do I unscrew the ejector? I placed a 13mm wrench over it and it fit snug, but I couldn't budge it and I didn't want to twist anything so I stopped.

Any trick or suggestion to this?

Thanks in advance.
Lovesbeer99

 

[gsw-survivor]

First, newer S&W, (I assume that is what you have) have backwards threads. Without the correct tools, here's what you might try.
1. Place at least 3 better 6 empty fired shell cases in the Cyc. charge holes.
2. clamp the ejector rod between 2 pieces of wood held in a vice and unscrew the Cyc.
3. Rember, left hand threads so unscrew opposite of what you expect, don't force it it should unscrew with minimum effort.
4. reassemble in reverse order.
I would suggest first get a copy of Kuhnhausen's book on S&W revolvers, the proper tools or see a gunsmith with the correct tools and experience. Brad

 

[Lovesbeer99]

I have a mod 10-8 with the heavy barrel -

I tried to see a proper smith in NJ, but I keeping quoted for 100 - 150 to fit a bushing. I checked Cylinder and Slide website and I can get a complete action job for 80.00. I fired the gun and the action is decent and accuracy is pretty good, but If I can't get this gun fixed for less than 50.00 I'm ready to just send it off to get a new custom barrel, action, sights and re-blue. Otherwise why bother.

thanks
Lovesbeer99

 

[Sir Aardvark]

You are looking for a:

Wessinger Extractor Rod Tool.

Brownell's used to carry this, that's where I bought mine, but a search on their site does not show that they carry this any longer???

Brownells Part No. 970-100-001 (For S&W Revolvers.)

Oh well!

Also, I second the motion of getting the Kuhnhausen book - it's well worth the money spent.

 

[machinisttx]

Fixing the endshake problem isn't nearly as simple as just dropping in a couple of bushings.

You need to make sure the endshake is actually in the cylinder to yoke interface and not the yoke to frame interface. If it's in the yoke to frame interface, you need a slightly larger yoke screw and possibly yoke bushings. It can also be peened somewhat to narrow the groove where the yoke screw rides.

If it's in the cylinder to yoke interface, you need to make sure the end of the yoke is square to the cylindrical axis(special cutting tool required). Depending on how much cylinder endshake there is, you may want to peen the yoke, which will require the use of a "liner" to keep from collapsing the yoke tube. A S&W yoke alignment tool could be used for this.

The Kuhnhausen book will be very beneficial if you intend to do anything to your S&W revolvers.

 

[Lovesbeer99]

I checked the and I'm confident that it's not the yoke to frame.
As far as the cylinder goes... I understand this may be complex, but then again, it might not be. It might just need a bushing. I just want it better, it doesn't have to be like new.

If this does not work, I'll try the professional approach. If it does work, then I bought some time for the price of the bushings.


Question - can this be done with hand tools, and a vise/wood, or do I really need special tool.

Thanks for all the advice and feedback. I'll be very careful.

 

[machinisttx]

If it's in the cylinder to yoke interface, you just need to be sure the end of the yoke is square to the axis. If it's not, you may run into problems with uneven wear on the bushing. The other reason you will probably want the special cutter is to remove excess material if the bushing doesn't leave enough clearance for proper operation.(using more than one bushing isn't really a good idea).

As far as removing the ejector rod from the cylinder..

Entirely possible to do it with just pliers, some cloth, and your hands. Wrap the knurled end of the ejector rod in cloth then grab it there with the pliers. As long as you turn the right way, it should come loose quickly. Just be careful not to bend the rod(which is easy to do).

The advantage of the tool is that you can grip the ejector rod close to the cylinder and there is less risk of bending it.

Having the right tools will make the job easy and there is a lot less risk of damaging anything. Personally, I buy the tools because I'll probably have need of them again in the future.

 

[gsw-survivor]

Brownells does not carry the Wessinger tool anymore, check here for the tools
http://www.gunsmithing-tools.com/store/Scripts/default.asp

 

[.41Dave]

A drill chuck (not attached to a drill!) works very well as an Ejector rod removal tool.