S&W Model 10 Extractor Pin Missing

[il.bill]

I have a S&W Model 10-8 that is missing one of the two Extractor Pins.

I bought this revolver used a year ago. It is a really nice shooting heavy barrel M-10 that only sees duty punching holes in paper using no more than moderate loads. The finish is quite worn but the action and accuracy are sweet.

Extraction has always seemed just a bit stiffer than my other K-frames so I decided to remove the crane for the first time to give the cylinder and extractor components a thorough cleaning. After getting the chambers spotless and cleaning everything up I then noticed one of the extractor pins was missing when I began the reassembly.

I honestly do not know if I somehow knocked it out while cleaning the cylinder, or if it was already missing when I first took possession of the revolver a year ago.

I have several questions:
- this is the first time I have run across this issue. Does it happen often?
- how hard are the extractor pins to replace? Is it a simple interference fit? I have a Model 10-8 parts gun - will a pin pull out of the extra cylinder with a padded vise grip and then install in the empty hole using some loctite? Or do I add replacement extractor pin(s) to my next gun parts order?
- this is probably a stupid question but I will ask it anyway. Will I 'hurt' anything by putting it back together and firing it with just a single pin as a range shooter? For all I know it has been like that for the last year. The missing pin is the one farther from the index groove, but I now see there is definitely extra rotational play in the extractor without it.

Thanks for reading this post - any input will be very much appreciated.


And ... you can bet this is something I will add to my list to look for on any future revolver purchase checkover.

 

[rcmodel]

Probably been gone for years.
Then I think there was a while there when they drilled both holes, but only used one pin as a cost cutting measure!!!!
At least I've seen a few that way of your guns vintage.

One will get you by, unless you run hard & fast DA a lot.
But two is way better!

I replace them with cut-off #54 drill bit shanks.
Or music wire if brill bits are in short supply!

Cut to length & short taper slightly the end that goes in the hole.
Round the other end to match the one still in the gun.

They just firmly press fit / tap in with a small 'tappy-tap' gunsmith hammer.
But you can use a tiny drop of blue lock-tight if you are worried about it being too loose and falling out again.

But, make absolutely sure the holes in the ejector star and the cylinder line up right before you put it in.
That could be why it might have came with only one pin in the first place!

rc

 

[Jim K]

Confession, beaten out of me by thousands of heavily armed Taiban:

I usually just used the right size nail. The factory pins are not hard, and there is no real strain on them at any time. If there is even one cartridge in the cylinder, there is no strain.

Jim

 

[il.bill]

Thanks for the information.

I wrapped a couple layers of electrical tape over the jaws of a small Vise-grip and pulled a pin right out of my extra cylinder. The pin is much shorter than I expected; it measured just 0.19" long (and the diameter of a #54 drill bit).

With a drop of blue Loctite on the end I started the pin with a small needle nose pliers and gently tapped it in with the large end of a 1/4" punch.

I got it just a hair farther in than the original one and everything fits like it was meant to. The second pin significantly eliminates the extra rotational play in the extractor.

Thanks again, rc and Jim. THR is the best!

 

[The Bushmaster]

Find an old throttle cable and cut to size. If it's a bit loose, ding one end with a hammer very lightly. Gently drive the dinged end into the hole. Using a small file dress the explosed end to remove the cut edge.

One of my model 10s have had this done to it [by me] many years ago and it's still there.