Smith & Wesson Extractor rod

[velocette]

A question for the wizards of S&W. My recently acquired. 1954, K38 that had been neglected for a long time has a problem that needs more expertise than I have.
Full disassembly for cleaning, removal of dried grease and other detritus. No problem til I came to the extractor rod. I know it is reverse threaded. The knurled end has plier marks on it and it will not come loose. Kroiled it, and did what I could without damage. I know I can get another from Numrich for just a few bucks. Any suggestions before I proceed with anything? The extractor rod does work properly and the cylinder pin that runs through it also works properly (after I squeezed it a bit to make it round again.) Fortunately Bubba never got to the internal workins of the revolver, just the extractor rod. Any advice will be welcome.

Roger

 

[usaral63]

Don't believe that ALL the S&W rods were reverse threaded........someone hereon ought to be able to advise when the RT was initiated.

 

[.38 Special]

Don't believe that ALL the S&W rods were reverse threaded........someone hereon ought to be able to advise when the RT was initiated.

Good call. I believe threading was changed some time in the late 1950s. That would be the first thing I'd check. Once you're sure of the direction, I'd put some empty cases into the cylinder to support the extractor star before really cranking on the rod. Ideally, the proper tool (Brownell's, Power Custom) would be used, but I have often resorted to padding the rod with leather and then placing it into a bench vise and turning the cylinder itself - I believe there even is a video of Larry Potterfield (Midway USA) showing the same technique.

 

[velocette]

Kuhnhausen says that the RH threaded ejectors have a groove cut in the knurling. Mine does not.

 

[a5werkes]

Kuhnhausen Reference states that LH threaded extractor rods will, After 1960-62, generally have a groove below the knurling.

 

[a5werkes]

Kuhnhausen mentions properly torquing the extractor rod, however nowhere is such a tool / adapter to perform such a task which was my motivation to fabricate an adapter to properly torque the revolver extractor rod for re-assembly. Most torque wrenches function correctly with left-hand threads. Just never use the torque tool to remove RH threaded fasteners.
Potterfield does have video demonstrating the extractor rod assembly / disassembly with padded vise jaws; not unnecessarily concerned with any torque setting!

 

[velocette]

Thank you gentlemen. With a soft faced vice jaw, the ejector rod popped free, Lefty loosy, Tighty Righty. It was right hand thread & I had misread my Kunhausen book. Amazing how much black goop can accumulate inside such small parts, especially with a revolver that has not been fired a lot.
Its all back together again, clean and well lubricated. Tomorrow it gets its first rounds through it with its new owner.
Revolver is 68 years old & in excellent condition, save for some wear on the blue.
Thank you all again.

Roger

 

[BBBBill]

If the ejector rod has an enlarged end (think knob) it is right hand thread. If the knurled end is straight (actually a tiny bit smaller diameter than the main part of the shaft) it is left hand thread.

 

[sparkyv]

Whew (exhale)!

Thank you gentlemen. With a soft faced vice jaw, the ejector rod popped free, Lefty loosy, Tighty Righty. It was right hand thread & I had misread my Kunhausen book. Amazing how much black goop can accumulate inside such small parts, especially with a revolver that has not been fired a lot.
Its all back together again, clean and well lubricated. Tomorrow it gets its first rounds through it with its new owner.
Revolver is 68 years old & in excellent condition, save for some wear on the blue.
Thank you all again.

Roger

 

[.38 Special]

Gentlemen, I believe @a5werkes has given us the last word. His posts qualify this thread for "sticky" nomination, in my view.