I inherited my Model:17-4 some years ago and have been in love with it ever since. One day shile shooting it, the found the hammer would not lock back anymore. it seemed to me that in the past it had been double action and single. now the only way to shoot it is with a full trigger pull. before it would lock back and barely need tapped at all. i took it to my gunsmith who cleaned it up and told me that it had never locked back before. that there were some models that did and some that didnt. is this true with this gun? does my question even make sense?
S&W Model:17-4, is it really normal?
- Thread starter kkshooter
- Start date
- Status
The K-22s were re-named the Model 17 in 1957 or so, so they're essentially the same gun. If yours is a 17-4, it ought to be stamped on the yoke, which you can read if you open the cylinder. To nail down the year, reply back with the guns serial # (in the form 10K00XX, i,e, X'ing out the last 2 #s), and someone will look it up in The Book. Pics would be good, too.
Anyhow, as far as the trigger stop, take a look at the back of the trigger where it meets the frame. Is there a teensy little tab sticking out of the frame? That would be the trigger stop. When properly adjusted, it's designed to limit overtravel of the trigger after the single action trigger is pulled. If it managed to work itself a bit too far out, I'm thinking the trigger may be hitting it before the hammer can be fully cocked.
Anyhow, as far as the trigger stop, take a look at the back of the trigger where it meets the frame. Is there a teensy little tab sticking out of the frame? That would be the trigger stop. When properly adjusted, it's designed to limit overtravel of the trigger after the single action trigger is pulled. If it managed to work itself a bit too far out, I'm thinking the trigger may be hitting it before the hammer can be fully cocked.
Bullet Bob
Member
All factory 17's would "lock back", i.e., fire in single-action mode, unless someone modified it after it left the factory. You could get a factory option for a while (as well as buy the parts from the factory) to make them single action only.
You could try squirting some action cleaner through the frame while the trigger is held back on an empty gun, and then the work the action some. Might just be gunked up. If that doesn't work, I'd try a different gunsmith. Some people would say to take the sideplate off, but if you're not familiar with S&W's, I would not recommend that. Perhaps I'm too cautious, but gunsmiths hate having a gun brought to them in pieces with small parts missing.
You could try squirting some action cleaner through the frame while the trigger is held back on an empty gun, and then the work the action some. Might just be gunked up. If that doesn't work, I'd try a different gunsmith. Some people would say to take the sideplate off, but if you're not familiar with S&W's, I would not recommend that. Perhaps I'm too cautious, but gunsmiths hate having a gun brought to them in pieces with small parts missing.
I recall hearing that some came as single action only, which makes sense, since they were popular at the time in bullseye matches. It seems, though the gunsmith was suggesting it's double action only, in which case, I agree with BulletBob about your 'smith.
gsw-survivor
Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2008
- Messages
- 26
a few things,
1. does the barrel have a rib on it?
2.if it does, the ser# on the grip base should have a K in it somewhere,if it a post 1957 model, the model # should be on the frame inside/opposite the yoke.
3. the .38 Special K-14 target revolver was on occasion modified to S/A only,not the K-22/model 17.
4. if it fired both S/A-D/A before, it should still, if not, something is worn,broken or loose. not really able to guess anything other than the S/A notch on the hammer or the S/A ledge on the trigger worn but that is so unlikely in normal use as to defy reason unless some "Bubba" tried to do a trigger job.
5. more detailed info and possibly pics might help.
1. does the barrel have a rib on it?
2.if it does, the ser# on the grip base should have a K in it somewhere,if it a post 1957 model, the model # should be on the frame inside/opposite the yoke.
3. the .38 Special K-14 target revolver was on occasion modified to S/A only,not the K-22/model 17.
4. if it fired both S/A-D/A before, it should still, if not, something is worn,broken or loose. not really able to guess anything other than the S/A notch on the hammer or the S/A ledge on the trigger worn but that is so unlikely in normal use as to defy reason unless some "Bubba" tried to do a trigger job.
5. more detailed info and possibly pics might help.
that sounds like someone did a trigger job on the single action engagement than finally wore through...that engagement surface is completely gone.
the M-14 (K-38) was available from the factory as SA only. it came without the DA sear
That number in the yoke is an assembly number. The serial number will be on the bottom of the gripframe. Does the revolver actually have 17-4 inside the yoke or where did you get this number from? What frame size is this revolver? You could be lucky and have one of the first K22s (the Outdoorsman) and it's quite valuable or you could have an I or Improved I frame revolver. Does this revolver have fixed or adjustable sights?
gsw-survivor
Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2008
- Messages
- 26
Based on what you have related RE: no rib and the ser.#, you have a pre-war Outdoorsman.Circa mid to late thirty's. It's possible at that age it has worn somewhere to cause the problem. Parts will be difficult to find and a qualified gunsmith will be needed to diagnose/repair the gun. Keep us advised and maby we can reccomend someone to work on your valuable collectors gun. Brad
the rear sight is adjustable but the front is fixed. it has a frame mounted firing pin according to a guy i met at the gunrange today. i am heading over to a g/s now, i actually have two projects for him. i will see what he says, thanx again.
gsw-survivor
Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2008
- Messages
- 26
Nice gun and well worth getting fixed by a "smith who knows what he is doing, and familiar with S&W'S in paticular.There are qualified 'smiths out there such as Grant Cunningham and others who will do a good job. First see if you can figure out/explain the problem in more detail and let's see if we all can offer any help. Brad
if it is really an Outdoorsman, it won't have a frame mounted firing pin
the smith mentioned the hammer style being typical of older models.
the problem is that the gun is shooting dao when it used to be single and double action.
i supposed i dont really know, but the guy at the range earlier seemed to know his stuff and claimed to own a model 17 also with a frame mounted firing pin. it just doesnt look like the pics ive seen of the model 17s.
the problem is that the gun is shooting dao when it used to be single and double action.
i supposed i dont really know, but the guy at the range earlier seemed to know his stuff and claimed to own a model 17 also with a frame mounted firing pin. it just doesnt look like the pics ive seen of the model 17s.
machinisttx
Member
The S&W K22/M17 has always had a frame mounted firing pin. That means the hammer is flat faced and doesn't have anything protruding from the front. Centerfire S&W revolvers from that time period would have had a hammer mounted firing pin, which looks significantly different than what is on your K22.
A picture would help a great deal in identifying what you have, and be of assistance to those who may be able to recommend a quality gunsmith to repair the gun.
I agree with the others that either the single action sear notch is broken or is simply worn to the point of failure.
A picture would help a great deal in identifying what you have, and be of assistance to those who may be able to recommend a quality gunsmith to repair the gun.
I agree with the others that either the single action sear notch is broken or is simply worn to the point of failure.
- Status
