S&W Model 29

[jumpstart]

Challenge: Cylinder will not drop from frame upon depression of thumb release.
1. Any suggestions on how to get the cylinder to release in another manner so as to look inside the frame? The spring action on thumb release seems normal. I really don't want to disassemble.
2. If disassembly is inevitable, what is the best sight for a schema/trouble shooting the 29 ? Thanks for any and all help.

 

[Deanimator]

Was it shot much? I've got a 6" 29-2 that's got a stiff cylinder release. It was shot very little.

 

[ROBBY.1911]

if the cylinder will rotate in a normal manner while dry firing, there can't be much holding it. please keep us all posted.--robby

 

[rondog]

Challenge: Cylinder will not drop from frame upon depression of thumb release.

What, ya gotta push it out with a finger? OMG.

 

[cyclopsshooter]

if the ejector rod comes loose this will happen

 

[jumpstart]

if the ejector rod comes loose this will happen

Bingo!- Ejector rod was just loose. That was simple. Man I feel kinda inadequate all of a sudden and at the same time more learned ..... Thanks cyclopshooter and all.

 

[David E]

Sounds like the ejector rod has come unscrewed a turn or two. This makes it just enough longer, causing it to engage the forward release plunger. When you activate the cylinder release, the way it's supposed to work is that the rod inside the ejector is moved forward, pushing the forward release plunger forward enough to disengage from the hollow ejector rod. If the ejector rod is a bit longer (it doesn't take too much more length to cause this problem) the forward release plunger does NOT clear the hollow ejector rod. See if the internal rod is pushed flush with the ejector rod. If not, use a non-marking pointy thing to push the forward release plunger towards the muzzle. The cylinder should then open.

Remember, it has LEFT HAND THREADS !! In this case, "Lefty TIGHTY, righty loosy"

(Don't you hate it when you take the time to fully explain the situation, only to have the problem solved by the time you post your lengthy explanation? )

Glad you got it figured out !!

 

[Deanimator]

if the ejector rod comes loose this will happen

The first night I shot my club's D/A revolver league, there must have been at least a half dozen guns tie up that way in the first relay alone.

 

[jumpstart]

Sounds like the ejector rod has come unscrewed a turn or two. This makes it just enough longer, causing it to engage the forward release plunger. When you activate the cylinder release, the way it's supposed to work is that the rod inside the ejector is moved forward, pushing the forward release plunger forward enough to disengage from the hollow ejector rod. If the ejector rod is a bit longer (it doesn't take too much more length to cause this problem) the forward release plunger does NOT clear the hollow ejector rod. See if the internal rod is pushed flush with the ejector rod. If not, use a non-marking pointy thing to push the forward release plunger towards the muzzle. The cylinder should then open.

Remember, it has LEFT HAND THREADS !! In this case, "Lefty TIGHTY, righty loosy"

(Don't you hate it when you take the time to fully explain the situation, only to have the problem solved by the time you post your lengthy explanation? )

Glad you got it figured out !!

Thanks for your post none the less. It also moved my learning process forward, and that is usually a good thing!

 

[RDCL]

Yep, Extractor rod coming loose. I've had that happen before on one of my model 29's.

Russ

 

[rcmodel]

Might as well fix it now, or it's just going to keep doing it.

Take it out, degrease it, and apply one small drop of Blue Lock-Tight.
Then put it back togeter.

Use a hardwood block drilled to fit with a lot cut to the hole in one end to clamp it in a vice so you can tighten it properly without using pliers and messing it up.

rc

 

[jumpstart]

Might as well fix it now, or it's just going to keep doing it.

Take it out, degrease it, and apply one small drop of Blue Lock-Tight.
Then put it back togeter.

Use a hardwood block drilled to fit with a lot cut to the hole in one end to clamp it in a vice so you can tighten it properly without using pliers and messing it up.

rc

Will do. Thanks!

 

[BCRider]

When you tighten it using the vise and wood blocks don't go nutz on the tightening. You literally only want to tighten it with not that heavy a twist from two fingers on the cylinder. You're getting a lot of torque multiplication from using the cylinder itself as a "wrench" so go easy given that the thread your tightening is only about 1/8 inch in diameter. By all means pinch it tight but mostly let the loctite do the work.

I only just learned yesterday from a thread here at THR that there's a low strength purple Loctite that is intended for small threads and is slightly less hardening than the blue Loctite. I'd suggest the purple for this thread.

 

[Snowbandit]

Make sure to put a few fired cases in the chambers before tightening the extractor rod. This keeps you from damaging the extractor and/or the little locator pin.