S&W revolver date?

[vstol]

I have come across a S&W revolver and would like to know the approximate date of manufacture. I am a semi-auto type and don't have any revolvers, so this one has me stumped.
The barrel is marked Smith and Wesson on the left side and 38 S&W Special CTG. on the right side. There seems to have been a stamping on the right rear side of the frame, possible Trade Mark around an image. It is almost completely worn away, although the bluing looks to be pretty much intact. Almost looks like it may have been re-blued sometime long ago.
Anyway, it has a six inch barrel, fixed sights, and the grips are rounded toward the front of the gun, with the S&W emblem on a metal disc at the top of each grip. The serial number on the bottom of the grip frame is 247328, with no letter designation. Is there a model designation for this gun?
I would appreciate any info, that comes my way.
Thanks, vstol

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Does it look like this?




What you are describing sounds like a 38 Special Hand Ejector, commonly known as the Military and Police model (M&P). Also known as the 38 Military and Police, Model of 1905-4th Change. The most common S&W revolver made, and probably the most common police revolver for most of the 20th Century. In 1957 it became known as the Model 10 and is still in production.

M&P serial numbers for the period from 1915-1942 run from 241,704 through 700,000. That is as specific as the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson gets for that range of serial numbers. Since yours is fairly close to the beginning number, it is probably a pretty early one. For what it's worth, I have a target model, SN 264,6XX that shipped in 1917.

You might find some more specific information if you post your question at the Smith and Wesson Forum.

If you post some good pictures, I may be able to narrow it down a from the features of the gun.

By the way, 38 S&W Special CTG stands for 38 S&W Special Cartridge, the caliber the gun is chambered for. Yes, it is the regular, old 38 Special.

You can also spend $50 to get the gun lettered by Roy Jinks, the official S&W historian. He can tell you exactly when it shipped (not when it was made) and where it was shipped.

 

[S&Wfan]

By all means, DO NOT SHOOT IT . . . for it might just make you cross to the "dark side!" LOL

Typically, these revolvers have wonderful accuracy and better triggers than most auto shooters have ever encountered!

They may be common, since they were so danged good and affordable, but that's a testament of how nice they are . . . or were. Check it out first to make sure it is still in great shooting shape of course!

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy Again

Never meant to insinuate they aren't great guns when I said they were common. If I didn't think they weren't terrific I would not have so many of them.

 

[vstol]

Thanks guys!

Thanks for the replies.
The revolver looks just like the one you posted a photo of.
I'll have to check into how to post to this forum. If I can figure it out, I'll post a couple of image files.
The revolver looks to be in good condition, it belonged to my son-in-law's grandfather and was passed down thru the ranks.
It probably hasn't been fired in several decades.
One thing I have found is that the cylinder release button(slide) doesn't seem to work, I can push it forward about 1/16 of an inch, but the cylinder doesn't rotate out. The firing mechanism seems to function correctly, but I haven't figured out the cylinder release. I'll probably take it to someone who knows more about these revolvers.
Again, I appreciate your input and I'll try and get some images up.
Thanks, vstol

 

[rcmodel]

It won't open because the ejector rod is unscrewed from inside the cylinder.

Take a business card or something and place it between the cylinder and frame to hold the cylinder lock down.

Then hold the ejector rod from turning and turn the cylinder clockwise to tighten it.

Once you get it open, the ejector rod needs to be tightened permanently so it won't unscrew again.
Put a couple of fired case in the chambers to support the ejector star, and use leather padded pliers to snug it up tight.

rc

 

[Jim K]

That serial number dates between 1915 and 1919, closer to the former, maybe 1916.

Jim

 

[vstol]

This is the pistol!

Thanks again,
It is always a great pleasure to deal with knowledgeable friendly folks.
One other question I have, concerns the wear in the area of the Trade Mark
symbol on the right rear of the frame. Does this wear look normal and is it possible that this pistol was refinished somewhere in it's existence? I am making an attempt at enclosing a couple of image files.
Again, everyone's information is extremely helpful.
Thanks, vstol

 

[vstol]

Still can't get the cylinder open!

I tried to tighten the ejector rod, but it seems to be tight. I held it with some padded pliers, but it didn't seem to want to tighten any more. I also notice that the cylinder release button only moves about 1/16 of an inch. Is that the normal amount of movement that I should expect? Is it possible that the hinged area is frozen, I don't see any sign of rust there, but I'm pretty sure the cylinder has been opened in many years. Again, I'm open to your thoughts.
Thanks, vstol

 

[rcmodel]

Appears to be refinished to me.

The sharp edges are buffed off around the trigger guard frame edges too.

Take the front side-plate screw out.
That is what holds the crane in the frame.

Squirt some penetrating oil in the screw hole and tap the crane with a block of hard wood or plastic hammer to work the oil in.

A drop of penetrating oil on the barrel lug where the front locking bolt and spring reside might also help.

rc

 

[vstol]

Thanks guys! , for all of your inputs.

I managed to get a buddy of mine, who is well versed in revolvers to check this one out and after partial disassembly, he was able to get everything working properly. It turned up to be grease which had gunked up the mechanism.
He confirmed that the frame had been re-blued, the barrel had been replaced, the lever for ejecting the brass was replaced, and the grips were not original to this gun. He did like the grips though, but wasn't sure which model they were for.
He showed me a very nice one just like this, it's serial no. was only about 1000 below the one on this pistol. He seemed to agree with a 1916 date. His pistol was probably good to very good condition wise and was all correct.
Again, I appreciate all the information put forth by you folks.
Just looking through some of the information available on this forum is very impressive and interesting.
Thanks again, vstol

 

[Brazos John]

S&W 38 Spcl - 1905 Hand Ejector?

I just bought an old S&W revolver. I think it's a 1905 Hand Ejector, but don't know what Change Number or the date of mfr. Who can help?
Here are the stamps:

Barrel, left side: SMITH & WESSON
Barrel, right side: 38 S&W SPECIAL CTG
Barrel, top, top line: SMITH & WESSON SPRINGFIELD MASS. U.S.A. PATENTED
Barrel, top, 2nd line: OCT 8 10, DEC 17 01, FEB 6 06, SEPT 14 09, DEC 29 14
SN: 295xxx

Details:
Right side plate has 4 screws.
Grips are stag or some type of horn, I think. Not original, but old. Flat butt.
It's the same size as my S&W 38 with the British stampings, but no lanyard loop.
It's been refinished. Darn. But, I only paid $200, and can use it for Wild
Bunch shooting at my club in Texas. We do it differently here.

 

[Radagast]

Brazos John:
1917 to September 1919, Approximate serial range for that period was 265000 to 316000.
This makes it a Model of 1905 4th Change, but predates heat treatment of cylinders and the positive intenral hammer block introduced in 1944.
So its safest to stick to standard velocity lead loads and only load five.

The .38/200 British Service Revolver in (.38 S&W) was a variant of the Model of 1905 4th Change and shared its serial range.

 

[Brazos John]

Thanks for the help.

Howdy, Radagast,
Thanks for the quick response.
I'm trying to learn about this gun, so here are some questions from an S&W greenhorn.
Trying to figure out the change number myself, before I posted here, I found other 1905s id'ed as Ch 4, but they had different starting dates on the barrel, like from 1899, where mine starts with Oct 8 01 and ends with Dec 29 14. I couldn't find one with dates that matched mine, but they all looked pretty similar. What are the criteria for the series of changes? And the dates on the barrel?
I like the feel of the gun in my hand, and might look for some more. "Collect the Whole Series", like they used to say. Maybe check some pawn shops and such, try to find a deal. Wish me luck.
Thanks again for the info.
Brazos John

 

[Radagast]

.38 Military & Police 1st Model / Model of 1899 Army Navy Revolver. Manufactured 1899 to 1902. Serial range 1 to 20975. Lacks the under barrel locking lug.

.38 Miltary & Police 2nd Model / Model of 1902. Manufactured 1902-1903. serial range 20976 to 33803. Has locking lug.

.38 Military & Police Model of 1902 1st change. Serial range 33804 to 62449. Minor design changes. Manufactured 1903-1904.

.38 Military & Police Model of 1905 / .38 Hand Ejector Military & Police 3rd Model. Changes to frame, additional screw, serial range 62450 to 73250. Manufactured 1905-1906.

.38 Military & Police model of 1905 1st Change. 1906-1909, serial range 73251-146899.

.38 Military & Police Model of 1905 2nd Change. 1906-1907, serial range 73251-146899. Shared with the 1st change.

.38 Military & Police Model of 1905 3rd Change 1909-1915. 146900-241703.

.38 Mililtary & Police Model of 1905 4th Change 1915-1942. Serial no 241704 to 1000000. Later part of serial range shared with .38/200 British Service Revolver.

There are multiple variants within those serial ranges, I suggest you buy the Standard catalog of S&W 3rd Edition by Supica & Nahas.

 

[mtrmn]

The additional piece on the OP's grip frame is a "Tyler's T-Grip", still available at
www.T-grips.com
The actual wood gips may very well be original.