Howdy
The 32-20 Hand Ejector was a variation of the standard 38 Military and Police, but it was chambered specifically for the 32-20 (32WCF) cartridge.
This 32-20 Hand Ejector shipped in 1916. The last 32-20 Hand Ejector shipped in 1940, so it will not have the modern style hammer block in it, it will have the older style, as shown in Slamfire's photo. So ignore what the guy in the video said about removing the hammer block, the old style is pinned to the side plate and is not going to fall out. Also, ignore what he said about making sure the little step on the side plate fits where it is supposed to, your 32-20 Hand Ejector has a screw in that location, as you can see on my 32-20 HE.
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Yes, it is not a bad idea to loosen the strain screw on the hammer spring before removing the side plate, but I have done it both ways.
You can use what ever you want to tap the frame to remove the side plate, I usually use the hardwood handle of a hammer. Never whack the frame with anything metal. I sometimes use a soft face hammer. The handle of a screwdriver will work well too, just do not try to pry the side plate off. Hold the revolver horizontally with the side plate up and your thumb on the side plate. Whack the frame lightly in the area where the grips are (which you previously removed) and the side plate should rise up of its own accord. Keeping your thumb on the side plate will prevent it from falling onto the floor.
This is what you are going to find when you remove the side plate. Not a 32-20 HE, but a 38 M&P. But the internals will be the same.
The two arrows on the left are pointing to the hammer block the one arrow on the right is pointing to a ramp on the hand.
The top arrow on the hammer block is pointing to a raised rectangular tab on the hammer block. The hammer block itself is made of spring steel, and in its normal resting position that tab will be positioned between the hammer and the frame, to prevent an accidental discharge in case the revolver is dropped on its hammer with a live round under the hammer. The lower tab on the hammer block is engaged by the ramp on the hand. As the hand rises to rotate the cylinder in double action mode, or as the hand rises when the hammer is cocked, the ramp will press the hammer block into its slot in the side plate, withdrawing the tab at the top from between the hammer and the frame. This allows the hammer to fall all the way, firing the revolver.
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Not having your revolver in hand I cannot tell you exactly what is wrong, but you can carefully work the action and perhaps see what the problem is.
I WILL CAUTION YOU: THIS IS THE STYLE OF HAMMER BLOCK THAT FAILED ON A VICTORY MODEL REVOLVER IN A SHIPBOARD ACCIDENT IN 1944. THE REVOLVER FELL TO THE DECK AND DISCHARGED AND A SAILOR WAS KILLED.
S&W immediately redesigned their hammer blocks after that incident and installed this style of hammer block:
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This is the style of hammer block that the guy in the video removed. This style has been inside every S&W revolver since 1944, but you will not find it in your 32-20HE.
WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW: It was eventually determined that hardened cosmoline inside the revolver involved in the shipboard incident had prevented the hammer block from functioning properly. The hardened cosmoline kept the hammer block withdrawn in its slot in the side plate, so it did not work properly to prevent an accidental discharge.
Be sure to clean out any old hardened oil in your 32-20 HE with a good solvent. BE SURE THE HAMMER BLOCK IS OPERATING PROPERLY. Finger pressure should depress it into its slot in the side frame, THEN IT SHOULD POP BACK SMARTLY WHEN THE FINGER PRESSURE IS REMOVED.
Reoil the parts lightly with a good quality gun oil before reassembling.
Just so you know, that style of hammer block was in many thousands of S&W revolvers before the shipboard incident. Generally speaking, it was reliable. Even so, you probably should be careful about dropping your revolver onto its hammer with a live round under the hammer.
