S&W wear signs : flame cutting to top strap

[Riss]

Where else should I look for signs of wear for a 44 Mag S&W other than the top strap ? Barrel cylinder gap is the next obvious check. But what else can I check to see how bad the gun is worn ? To clarify, the top strap has MAJOR flame cutting. Looks like someone ran a hacksaw over it.

 

[wep45]

no need to look further................pass it by and move on.

 

[Riss]

Well it is a custom run S&W model 28 and I do want one in the stable. The finish is not bad at all and the gun overall is about 90 %. But it was apparently fed a steady diet of full power 44 magnum shells.

 

[Drail]

Any revolver that looks as if it has been "abused" by a lot of +++P hot handloads should be walked away from. If what you are actually seeing is flame cutting and not just leading and fouling then somebody rode that gun really hard. There is no telling what else was done to it either. Check the timing to see if the cylinder locks before the hammer comes to full cock and check the locking bolt notches in the cylinder for raised burrs on their edges. Look at the bore carefully. I would keep looking. There's plenty of Model 29s out there. If it is a .44 Mag then it should be a Model 29. A Model 28 is a .357.

 

[rbernie]

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430

 

[Riss]

It was flame cutting. I did not try to scratch it off, but I am sure it is not lead.

 

[rcmodel]

Just exactly what custom run S&W model 29 is it?

Sounds like an old Silhouette model that has had a ginormous number of hot loads through it.

That being the case, the flame cutting is just the tip of the iceberg.

I'd pass.

rc

 

[Riss]

It's a Lew Horton 3" adj sights, compact rosewood grips, etc.

 

[Old Fuff]

It's not clear to me if you own this revolver, or are thinking about buying it. Anyway if it has seen too many hot loads (especially high-end handloads) it may have one or more expanded chambers. To find out it would have to be returned to the factory where they would check the chambers with a go/no-go plug gauge. If this was the case the cylinder would be ruined, and S&W might or might not still have any available, considering the age of the gun.

Also, look at the breech face around the firing pin hole to see if there is any evidence of a case head pressed into the metal.

 

[Shimitup]

Top strap cutting is quite normal for any revolver that generates similar pressures to .44 mag. that has been fired a lot, not necessarily abused. My Redhawk has a pretty good notch at about 6000 rounds of handloads loaded at slightly lower velocities than factory fare. Top strap cutting is only part of the equation. It is important to have little end shake and tight lockup of the cylinder, with a SW it would be advisable to remove the side plate to check it for a tight fit if possible. A very typical cyl gap might be .005 to .007. easily checked with automotive feeler gauges. That to say if the gun is generally tight it probably hasn't been abused. don't worry about the top strap.


P.S.
I would absolutely use the cutting as a negotiating factor, for the right price I wouldn't pass it up if the gun is tight.

 

[Riss]

I am in light negotiations to buy it. I am low balling on the price because I first saw the cutting on the top strap. Not knowing where else to readily look for problems I will not make a firm price. I have other revolvers, none in 44 mag, but they are not marked at all like that after 10's of thousands of rounds.

 

[Drail]

I have never seen a .44 Mag revolver with significant top strap cutting unless it had been shot extensively using very light bullets and very slow burning powder. I have seen it on a number of .357 revolvers used with light bullets and slow powders. If it is really eroded as you say it has been abused. The previous owner may not have known he was doing damage but with the right combination of bullet/powder it's just like taking a gas cutting torch to the metal.

 

[BBBBill]

I've always wondered why there's not a replaceable sacrificial insert for that problem. I know that a little flame cutting is inevitable on most any magnum and fairly harmless, but I'm bugged by any at all.

 

[Drail]

They have been installing a blast shield in some models for a while now. If you simply avoid running ammo with very light bullets and slow powders there won't be a problem. The cause is handloaders pushing the envelope and the guys who like the 110-125 gr. high velocity .357 Mag loads. If the main powder charge still burning and producing max pressure AFTER the bullet has crossed the barrel/cylinder gap you'll see flame cutting. (along with a huge fireball at the muzzle and the BC gap.) It's a simple case of wasting powder and abusing the gun to get ridiculous and unnecessary velocities.

 

[orionengnr]

Yep, all the new Scandium models have a small stainless steel insert that appears to be replaceable.
Wonder if S&W couldn't machine that same slot into an older revolver, insert that little stainless thingee and achieve the same thing?

 

[Messenger Guard]

My 1905 was actually machine "scalloped' in the area where flame cutting occurs. My S&W guru buddy says this was factory procedure back in the day. Another thing to look for is peening around the cylinder notches. Wallowed out notches are a sign of high speed DA work. Of course the forcing cone could be cracked or display erosion.