SA Garand - Stock Refinishing

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Werewolf

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I'm pretty partial to a nice Tung Oil finish on the wood of all my rifles. I know it's not historic but I want a tung oil finish on my Springfield Armory Garand (uses I believe a Boyd Stock).

Normally what I do is take 00 steel wool to the wood and remove whatever varnish, lacquer, wax or other preservative is on there courtesy of the manufacturer. Once down to bare wood I'll thoroughly wipe down the wood with a dry rag to get all the dust and crud out of the grain that I can. Then I'll repeat with a slightly damp rag. Put the wood aside to dry for about 1/2 hour or so. Next I'll liberally apply tung oil or Birch-Casey True oil to the wood and rub it in with a paper towel until it's gone. I will repeat the true oil rubbing in another time. Set the wood aside for a minimum of 3 hours to dry (usually overnight). Depending on the wood the above process will be repeated (except I use a light sanding with steel wool instead of heavy) 3 or 4 times until I get the finish I want. Lastly I'll apply a coat of high quality wax for wood. Results are IMO excellent.

HERE'S THE PROBLEM!

The darn wood on the Springfield is reluctant to take the oil. I've sanded and sanded with the steel wool. Rubbed in the oil over and over but it just won't take. 24 hours of drying and the wood still feels a bit tacky. It takes 3 or 4 days for the tacky feel to go away and the wood barely looks like it's had tung oil applied to it.

SO WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH THE BOYD STOCK? Are they treated with something? If so how do I get that something out? Should I even try?

As heretical as it may seem to some I'd like to get the tung oil finish on the wood of my Garand (hey it's not like it was ever carried into battle or anything - it's a SA Garand ;) ).

Suggestions? Comments? Flames?
 
I'm far from being an expert, but as I understand it tung oil (and also boiled linseed oil) does not actually "dry"-- it "cures". Meaning, I suppose, that a chemical change takes place to actually harden the oil. Anyway, if the tacky feeling goes away in a few days, I would just continue to apply coats as required and let the job take longer. You'll savor the fine finish more that way.

Tim
 
Tung oil is historically accurate. The early rifles had problems w/ smoking handguards during rapidfire and the arsenals after that treated rifles with tung oil.

I think the directions on the tung oil I used said to wipe off excess after 15 minutes. As a sanity check, I'd verify that you're following the instructions on the can.

Ty
 
I've had this same problem with tung oil on two occasions. The first time, I wasn't wiping off enough of the excess oil. The second time I think the oil I was using was just old. When I bought a new can, it went on and dried after 24 hours.
 
Most Tung Oil that's available to us, like at Home Depot or Lowe's, isn't real Tung Oil at all and has finish in it. To get real Tung Oil you need to order Behlen's or Behr online. The same pretty much goes for stains and dyes - stay away from crap like Minwax if you want good results. Here's a site with tons of info on this and the sticky's are well worth reading. I just refinished my first 91/30, used all the cheap stuff and it looked like crap. Now I have ordered a bunch of good stuff and will experiment with mixing dyes and hopefully I can match the original finish.

To unknowledgable me it sounds like the grain is sanded too much and it won't take the oil. Sanding with 180 or 220 grit silicon carbide (gray) sandpaper will smooth it and leave the grain open enough to take oil.

Hopefully this site will answer your questions, but if not register and ask for help from Cabinetman - this guy is GOOD!

Parallax Bill's C&R Refinishing Forum
 
The second time I think the oil I was using was just old.

Hmmmm....
The stuff I'm using is well over a year old and hasn't been used for the last 9 months. Maybe the drying agents mixed with the oil have all evaporated away?

A new batch of oil maybe?

Thanks for the tip.
 
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