autumist
Member
Having added a fluorescent light to both my gun safe and my ammo box, I'm wondering what kind of switch can be obtained that will operate automatically when each door is opened. Anyone have an idea?????....Mac
Safe light switch
- Thread starter autumist
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Normally closed pressure switch comes to mind. Or something like these http://www.smarthome.com/7113/SECO-...agnetic-Contact-Switch-Normally-Closed/p.aspx
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autumist
Member
autumist
Hey thank you, I had forgotten all about that type of switch. I used them on the alarm on my sailboat years ago.....Thanks again, I'll get two tomorrow......Mac
Hey thank you, I had forgotten all about that type of switch. I used them on the alarm on my sailboat years ago.....Thanks again, I'll get two tomorrow......Mac
You know, maybe I was too quick to shut this one down so I am more than willing to admit my mistake and reopen the thread.
Lex Luthier
Member
I have installed a few of those pressure switches on walk in closets. There must be other styles, but these required a hole in the jamb. I would be interested to see other versions that work in a small safe. I keep a flashlight right inside the door.
Motion sensor switches work in this application.
Outlaw Man
Member
that was my thought, as well. I really like the motion sensor on my safe.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
Thank you for reopening the thread.
For applications like this I generally go with a Snap-Acting Micro Switch commonly available from McMaster Carr Supply. I would use the Plunger type activated. I suggest a switch like this because they are durable and while the lamp current and voltage won't likely be that high these switches easily switch 120 VAC at up to 15 amps or more.
Another option is a magnetic reed switch (the kind used for example to alarm a window or door entry). The down side of many of these is they are designed for low voltage and low current applications.
There are also other assorted Prox (Proximity) switches that could be used. I guess whatever can be made to easily fit.
Ron
For applications like this I generally go with a Snap-Acting Micro Switch commonly available from McMaster Carr Supply. I would use the Plunger type activated. I suggest a switch like this because they are durable and while the lamp current and voltage won't likely be that high these switches easily switch 120 VAC at up to 15 amps or more.
Another option is a magnetic reed switch (the kind used for example to alarm a window or door entry). The down side of many of these is they are designed for low voltage and low current applications.
There are also other assorted Prox (Proximity) switches that could be used. I guess whatever can be made to easily fit.
Ron
I thought about motion sensor or door switch and I ended up going with door switch because my wiring was already running right by the door anyway.
I used this switch that I picked up at Home Depot for $10 or so.
I made a bracket of sorts out of a 2x4 and covered it with fabric similar to the safe interior. Works great so far but does require a little work lining it up. I was able to get in my safe and close the door to check alignment. If you can't physically get in your safe I could see it being a little harder to get the alignment right. Maybe there is a better way to do it, but here's what I did and it works great for me.
Hope that helps.
I used this switch that I picked up at Home Depot for $10 or so.
I made a bracket of sorts out of a 2x4 and covered it with fabric similar to the safe interior. Works great so far but does require a little work lining it up. I was able to get in my safe and close the door to check alignment. If you can't physically get in your safe I could see it being a little harder to get the alignment right. Maybe there is a better way to do it, but here's what I did and it works great for me.
Hope that helps.
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Reloadron
Contributing Member
Nice job there Dentite.
Ron
Ron
afponiky
Member
Robert, thanks for the look back!
One thing to remember about the alarm switch is that it might not be able to handle the power and wattage that a light will draw.
I do like the ones that ReloadRon and Dentite suggested.
All good stuff!
One thing to remember about the alarm switch is that it might not be able to handle the power and wattage that a light will draw.
I do like the ones that ReloadRon and Dentite suggested.
All good stuff!
Outlaw Man
Member
That's a good point, as a lot of these switches are made for low voltage lighting. Actually, low voltage LEDs would be the best option, anyway, as the costs are coming down and all of the equipment is smaller, but you've got to have a good spot for the transformer. In my safe, it takes up a couple of rifle slots where it's at.
In that photo I posted above you can see the small transformer for my LED strip lights that I installed. The transformer is very small compared to some I've seen. It does get pretty warm after being on 15 min or so but it's downstream of the switch so when the door is closed there is no power to the transformer so no heat, no electricity. Working well so far.
For a gun safe run a 120V wire in there. Connect it to a grounding plug and screw or tape that plug to the inside of the safe.
Plug in a 25W candelabra bulb with a night light fixture and leave it on, plug in a safe heater or both.
Cabelas and others carry 120V safe heaters made for safes.
No switch is needed or wanted.
Plug in a 25W candelabra bulb with a night light fixture and leave it on, plug in a safe heater or both.
Cabelas and others carry 120V safe heaters made for safes.
No switch is needed or wanted.
Outlaw Man
Member
But, you could have marketed it as a dehumidifier!
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